rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu (03/30/91)
This is a relatively long email conversation between two beginning bowhunters. Any comments or corrections are welcome... tim > = rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu (tim rigg) = matkowsk%tinton.ccur.com@RELAY.CS.NET (Joe Matkowski) > My story is a bit complicated. About 2 1/2 months ago I saw a Bear > bow with sights and quiver for $80 at K-Mart... Say no more about this bow! K-MART means well, and they do alot to support hunting and fishing, but they're definately not your one stop archery place. > I looked at and shot a few and settled on a Martin Prowler with a 29 > inch draw (adjustable from 28-30) and 65-80 pound draw. It is > currently underset at 60 lbs. Is there a camo pattern on this bow? I'm not very familiar with the Martin line. Although I've seen a couple of people down at leagues with some SWEET lookng Martin bows. I think Martin really gets into making their target bows more than hunting bows. The average price differnces between the two types is phenomenal! > This bow is like night and day compared > to my cheap Bear. It really is accurate. When you say Bear, I gather you mean Browning. Browning makes a lot of different types of Bows. My archery gurus down at the range carry a lot of different types of Brownings and swear by them, but they also told me that Browning makes some bows that are garbage too, and they refuse to carry them. A bow by Browning that I'm VERY impressed with is called the 'Mirage Hunter'. It's one of their newer ones and a VERY sweet pickle at that!!! > I was shooting last night > and could get 8 out of 8 in a 3 inch circle at 10 yards and a max of > 17 out of 17 in a paper plate at 17 yards (that is as long as my back > yard). I shoot with a release. Several people have told me that a > release will drastically tighten groups. Yea, you're shooting very well Tim, (better than me), I bet your shooting a few days a week. I don't have a target in my backyard yet, so I generally only shoot once a week. By the summer, I'll be shooting a lot more. I shoot with a release also (almost all the bow hunters do) and yes, it helps turn you into an accurate shooter much quicker. When you shoot fingers, there's a lot of variables to screw up, with a release you just flick that switch :-) > I can hardly pull my bow with my fingers. The release (a > Pro-Injector) puts the weight on my wrist and helps me pull much > easier. Yesterday was the first real day I have shot my ne bow. I > must have shot 150 arrows. My arm is not noticably sore today. > However, I would probably feel it if I tried to pull my bow. >From what I've learned, this bow is too heavy for you. When you pull back, do you raise the bow skyward to get better leverage? If you are, then it is defiantely too much for you. Something like that can cost you a nice Trophy also. If you're raising that bow upwards and pulling back, there's a much greater chance that deer will see that movement. There's a lot more motion involved when you pull a bow like that. Also, your arms should NEVER be sore >from using your bow, why? Because you are suppose to pull and hold that bow with your back. A good way to work on your form; when the bow is pulled try to pinch your shoulder blades together. It will make you much straighter and consistent in form. Tim, are shooting cams or wheels? Cams are a lot harder to pull back, especially for beginners like you and me. What is the letoff on your bow? Mine is set at 65%, still a bitch to hold back for more than a minute though :-) > I watched a few hunter league sessions. They seemed exactly as you > described - relaxed and fun. I will probably join one next winter. It will definately be worth your while. I've already hooked up with one guy who has a great place for waterfowl, and another guy on my team is going to hunt with me this year for deer. Says he's taking us to a place where he got an 8 ptr (with bow) two years ago (he didn't hunt last year). I can't wait! This is worse than waiting for christmas to come when I was a little kid!! :-) > I just made a straw bale target yesterday afternoon. Straw doesn't > really work that well so I will probably buy a cheap foam target > someday. Watch out for them neigbors !!!! :-) >> My field points are on 30 inch 2117 easton Aluminum shafts with 4 inch >> plastic vanes. > > Mine are 29 inch 2117 with feathers. My field tips are 125 grains. I > am leaning toward 125 grain thunderhead broadheads. How about you? Haven't decided yet. This is the part about archery that gets a little technical and complicated. I'd like to hunt with carbon shafts, but I may stick with the 2117's although I hope to have them shortened by the start of the season. I think my field points are 125 grain but they may be 100. In any case, I'm going to try to get my broadheads to weigh as closely to my field points as possible. Even still, once you start shooting your broadheads you'll have to readjust all your sights. They just fly different. What kind of sights do you have. I forget the exact maker of mine, but I've got those flourescent pins. I was thinking about getting the Browning crosshair sites, looks pretty good. Do you shoot with a peep site? > Also, I will probalby crank my bow up to 65-70 pound for deer season > so I will have to upgrade my arrows - probably up to 2219's. Bad move. I wouldn't be thinking in these terms right now. I mean, if you advance to that kind of draw weight naturally by the season that's fine. But don't push yourself, draw weight is not that important, and far less important than consistency and accuracy. An accurate archer, can take a good ten pointer with a 45 pound pull. If you do move up, you won't have to upgrade your shafts. 2117's are on the heavy side already, they'll probably perform fine under a 65-70 pound draw, but you may want to get a pro's opinion before changing anything. >> When I start to get some real consistency I would like >> to get an overdraw. Tell me about your experiences... > > Why do you want an overdraw? I do not know what they are supposed to > provide except a slightly lighter arrow and slightly flatter > trajectory. Yes they do, BUT! Speed is the issue. A good overdraw will speed up your arrow flight by about 50 fps. After you install an overdraw, you can really shorten your shafts, which will increase arrow velocity a lot more than you think. As a matter of fact Tim, you seem to fit the overdraw profile if you're really shooting groups as tight as you say you are. An overdraw will shoot faster arrows for you than if you set your bow at 70 pounds with a normal rest. Just what kind of rest do your use? I have a center flight rest. The only problem with an overdraw rest is that they will magnify your inconsistencies, which is why you better shoot tight groups before you get one, and it's why I don't have one yet. Although all bows are different, it's not unusual to take a bow that's shooting at 210 fps, add an overdraw, shorten the shafts, and start getting speeds of 270-290 feet per second. That's a big difference, and in my opinion, worth the demands that an overdraw makes on your consistency. > ...I am really excited about bowhunting and it is only March. By > October, I am going to be legally insane!! Join the club :-) *** Joe ***