roa@davinci.acc.virginia.edu (Robert O. Anderson Jr) (04/24/91)
>From: brianh@tvnews.tv.tek.com (Brian Heifner) >Subject: Tree stands, and Elk as a subject. >Any way, recently I purchased a Loggy Bayou (sp) tree stand. I'm >curious to found out what ya'all feel about height placement of the >tree stand. Is it enough to get only ten feet off of the ground or >will I do better higher up?. Loggy Bayou makes an excellent tree stand..... As for height, personally, I like to get 15 to 20 feet high or higher if conditions dictate. It just depends on the terrain. The higher you are the further the wind will carry your scent before it "settles" to the ground and the more dispersed it'll be. It also depends on the type of trees whether it's easy or not to get a distance off the ground. I've been in some small pines where it's uncomfortable being ten feet high....and have had deer walk around me wondering what that "new blob" was. And that "rock-a- bye-baby-in-the-tree-top" is a little unnerving, also. You'll just have to judge how high to get when you get to where you're hunting. >Another subject I think about alot is hunting tactics for elk here in >the Oreegone Coast range. For those of you who have never hunted here, >the coast range is extremely thick with vegetation. The area we hunted >last year was west of Timber (a very small town), we never got close >enough to any elk to get an arrow off. Actually we didn't even see >any. Man, I wish I could help you out with one!!!! >Does any one out there know of a good book or video tape that >specializes in Western Oregon elk or deer hunting?. No luck here, either. Good luck with the Elk hunting. Let us know how it goes. Bobby ======================================= bobby@virginia.edu (Internet) bobby@virginia (BITNET) =======================================
barkelew@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (David Barkelew) (04/26/91)
roa@davinci.acc.virginia.edu (Robert O. Anderson Jr) writes: brianh@tvnews.tv.tek.com (Brian Heifner) writes: >Any way, recently I purchased a Loggy Bayou (sp) tree stand. I'm >curious to found out what ya'all feel about height placement of the >tree stand. Is it enough to get only ten feet off of the ground or >will I do better higher up?. roa@davinci.acc.virginia.edu (Robert O. Anderson Jr) writes: >Loggy Bayou makes an excellent tree stand..... >As for height, personally, I like to get 15 to 20 feet high or >higher if conditions dictate. It just depends on the terrain. The >higher you are the further the wind will carry your scent before >it "settles" to the ground and the more dispersed it'll be. >It also depends on the type of trees whether it's easy or not to >get a distance off the ground. I've been in some small pines where >it's uncomfortable being ten feet high....and have had deer walk >around me wondering what that "new blob" was. And that "rocka >byebabyinthetreetop" is a little unnerving, also. >You'll just have to judge how high to get when you get to where >you're hunting. I typically do all my bowhunting (for deer, that is) from a tree stand. Up 'til this past season, I have used a homemade one that worked pretty well, and I have shot several nice deer from a tree. One thing that i believe caused a problem for me last year was the stability of the tree my stand was in. I was hunting whitetails in central Texas, where I live. The deer are pretty small, probably averaging 7080 pounds, and are extreemely easily spooked. My stand was about 2530 ft up in a red oak, which was about 5060 ft total. I was on the main trunk of the tree just above a large limb. I had a 45 degree wide lane off my left shoulder and another 30 degree wide lane in front and slightly right. Both had distances of 40 yards or so. Anyway, every time I moved or shifted my weight, even slightly, the outter leaves on the ends of the limbs of the tree would quiver just a bit. I didn't notice it until late in the season. When I finally did, the tree's movement was like a giant motion amplifier for my every move. I am pretty sure this cost me at least two oppertunities. I don't know if it was just that type of tree or what, but that is something you should also consider when selecting that perfect spot. David Barkelew Internet: barkelew@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu University of Texas THEnet: UTXVMS::BARKELEW Computation Center BITNET: barkelew@utxvms Unix/VMS Services YELLnet: (512)4713241 "If I've told you once, I've told you a bazillion times *NO*! "
roa@davinci.acc.virginia.edu ("Robert O. Anderson Jr") (04/28/91)
barkelew@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (David Barkelew) writes: >I typically do all my bowhunting (for deer, that is) from a tree >stand. Up 'til this past season, I have used a homemade one that >worked pretty well, and I have shot several nice deer from a tree. I make my own tree stands, also. I can get 10 out of a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. They're very similar to a "lockon" type and are as stable as the tree is. We put them up "perminately" in good places...with permission, of course. Spring globbler season keeps us busy. Pitiful ascii art follows: | | | |o < lag screw | /| on back of tree | / | | / | |/ | /| |<tree / | | /_____| | / | [| < seat 1/8" cable(2)> / | | | / seat | | | eyebolt / brace>| | | through o | | | outside | | corners of o <lag screw into tree through 24x19plywood with 1x4 or | | the angle that's bolted to 2x4 along outside edge the bottomside of plywood top view |< 19" or so >| eyebolts> |o| |o| ^ | | | | 1x4 > | | | | | cables approx. under each | | | | 24" 5' long side | | | | | | | /\ | | | | | / \ | | | |o| / this \ |o| | < 1 bolt through plywood,1x4, |||/ cut not as\||| _|_ and angle iron (angle iron || deep as || swivels to fit tree) angle iron > || shown || Always use a safety belt. Bobby ======================================= bobby@virginia.edu (Internet) bobby@virginia (BITNET) =======================================
u714092@eagle.larc.nasa.gov (prichard devon ) (04/28/91)
barkelew@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (David Barkelew) writes: One thing that i believe caused a problem for me last year was the stability of the tree my stand was in. I was hunting whitetails in central Texas, where I live. The deer are pretty small, probably averaging 7080 pounds, and are extreemely easily spooked. My stand was about 2530 ft up in a red oak, which was about 5060 ft total. I know things are bigger and better in Texas, but I don't think I'd want to shoot at a whitetail which weighs three and a half tons. then again, if I was a halfmile up a tree, I wouldn't worry. ;) |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| | Devon Prichard "The atrocious crime of being a young | | u714092@eagle.larc.nasa.gov, man... I shall neither attempt to | | prichard@ias.larc.nasa.gov palliate nor deny." | | William Pitt, House of Commons, 1741 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu (Tim Rigg) (04/30/91)
I also made my own tree stand. Since the comercial ones are around $100, I figured I couldn't go wrong. I have also heard that a major portion of this cost is insurance fees that manufacturers must pay in order to portect themselves. Anyway, this is the first one I made and it has a few drawbacks: the main one is it's weight (~15 to 20 pounds). However, it is easy to carry as a backpack and sets up quickly. Here are the best drawings that ascii characters and my very limited artistic skills will allow. I am interested to see what other designs have been used. Specifically, has anyone made a climbing tree stand? I figure that I can make two stands one climbing and one "loc on" for the price of a single comercial stand. | | | | | |<tree | | | | seat> | | o+L|xxxxxxx| <Chain wrapped around tree / + | | (hooked with S hooks / + | | and screw eyes to stand) / + | | 1/8" cable(2)> / + |< 1" alum. square stock / + | | / + | | eyebolt / + | | through o LLLLL|< 2"x2" aluminum angle iron outside | | corners of The square stock is attached 24x19plywood with one screw so it folds down top view |< 19" or so >| | | ^ | | | eyebolts> |o===============o|< 2"x3/16 alum. flatbar | | | for security and support 1x4 > | | | under each | | 24" side | | | | /\ | | |L / \ L| | |L / this \ L| | |L / cut not as\ L| | deep as shown Front View <1'> ________ ^ LoLLLLoL | x x KEY | x x L = 2"x2 angle iron 18" x x _| = 2"x2 angle iron (reversed) | x x x = 1" square stock | x x o = screw eyes | x x = 3/4" plywood v o L _| o ~~~ = 2"x 3/16 aluminum flatbar ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <19" or so> NOTE: the cables are not shown in this figure The cables are about 3 foot long. The 2"x2" angle iron is about 4 inches long and is held in place with two 3/8 inch bolts (2 bolts for each piece of angle iron) The seat is just held in place with screws with wing nuts. I am currently working on a hinged design. The chain is also used as a strap to carry the stand like a backpack Another piece of angle iron is used to hold the screw eyes for the chain and to serve as a mount for the seat. Total cost of aluminum $20 Plywood was scrap (but was 3/4 1 inch thinkness, I am not sure) Misc Hardware cost ~$3 Total weight ~15 20 pounds Let me know if anyone wants more detailed plans. And thanks to Bobby Anderson for his initial ascii drawings. And to echo his advise: Always wear a safety strap! They say that falling out of a tree stand is the greatest danger facing deer hunters tim
barkelew@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (David Barkelew) (04/30/91)
Here's the way I made my tree stands. I used a 2x12, cut
about 15 or so inches, and notched at the back for the seat.
There are two holes (denoted by "+") in the nothed end for
the rope, which is used to secure the seat to the tree.
There is a door hinge at the bottom of the seat to hold the
brace, which swings below the seat. The brace has a nail or
two (denoted by "*") in it with the head protruding to hold
that part of the rope in place. The whole thing remains
flat for transporting to your favorite spot, then swings
open when you are ready to install it. Since it is attached
only by ropes, there is no damage to the tree, which may be
important if someone else is allowing you to hunt on their
land. :) Really crude ASCII graphics follow.
Brace | | <Tree
. . Seat | |
.. .. ............... |
. Seat . . . . . ...___.........====== <\
... ... .* . *. .\ | | |
.+ .. .. +. . . .\ | | |
. ... . . . .. | | |
. . . . B .. | | |
. . . . r .. | | > Rope
. ___ . . . a .. | | |
. |___| . . . c .. | | |
...|___|... ....... e .. | | |
.. | | |
^^^ ..| | |
Door Hinge .. | /
.======= <
|. |
| |
| |
Also, experience has shown that placing this type of tree stand just
above a branch will not only give you some cover from below, depending
on what type of tree you put it in, it will also give you a place to
put your feet so they don't fall asleep while dangling around. :/
> barkelew@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (David Barkelew) writes:
>
> One thing that i believe caused a problem for me last year was the
> stability of the tree my stand was in. I was hunting whitetails
> in central Texas, where I live. The deer are pretty small, probably
> averaging 7080 pounds, and are extreemely easily spooked. My stand
> was about 2530 ft up in a red oak, which was about 5060 ft total.
>
> prichard@ias.larc.nasa.gov (Devon Prichard) writes:
>
> I know things are bigger and better in Texas, but I don't think I'd want
> to shoot at a whitetail which weighs three and a half tons. then again,
> if I was a halfmile up a tree, I wouldn't worry. ;)
Apparently, my news program is broken and doesn't transmit dashes. :( That is
something that is beyond my control, but I will mention it to the Unix staff,
who maintain it. BTW, I'm one of those VMS people... :)
David Barkelew Internet: barkelew@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu
University of Texas THEnet: UTXVMS::BARKELEW
Computation Center BITNET: barkelew@utxvms
Unix/VMS Services YELLnet: (512)4713241
"If I've told you once, I've told you a bazillion times *NO*! "keith@clodii.columbiasc.NCR.COM (05/03/91)
>From: Tim Rigg <rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu> >I also made my own tree stand. Since the comercial ones are around >$100, I figured I couldn't go wrong. I have also heard that a major >portion of this cost is insurance fees that manufacturers must pay in >order to portect themselves. Never had heard this before but would believe to be true because I saw one stand maker advertising a 1 million dollar insurance policy I recall. >Anyway, this is the first one I made and it has a few drawbacks: the >main one is it's weight (~15 to 20 pounds). However, it is easy to >carry as a backpack and sets up quickly. >Here are the best drawings that ascii characters and my very limited >artistic skills will allow. I am interested to see what other designs >have been used. Specifically, has anyone made a climbing tree stand? >I figure that I can make two stands - one climbing and one "loc on" >for the price of a single comercial stand. I made the first tree stand I used. It was modeled after a Baker tree stand and since I didn't make a hand climber I had to bear hug the tree. That really sucked because if it slipped, you got your chest and arms all skinned up. I just used a piece of plywood and some flat stock steel to make the lower blades and some angle steel to make the upper blades. I used angle aluminum for the support bars and bolts to hold the upper blade in position. I used small angle brackets to secure the aluminum support bars to the wood. It worked but was a little cumbersome to pack around. I left it on a tree one time too long and it grew legs and walked off so I made another one. About 5 years ago I bought a Warren and Sweat rifleman tree stand for $73 dollars. This stand weighs a mere 12 lbs and is easy to pack around and setup. I would recommend the heavy duty model for anyone over 150 lbs. however. It weighs about 17 lbs I think. I think they start around $99 dollars now. This stand is not made for bowhunting as you sit facing the tree but is safer than others, I feel, made for bowhunting. I have found that if you hunt as much as I do you WILL NOT use a stand that is heavy to carry or hard to set up or makes to much noise to use because of that inconveniece. I probably average 200 hrs in the woods in gun season, so keep that in mind. If you build a two piece "face the tree" stand like mine I suggest you locate somebody who has one you like and "take measurements" and build a close copy. There are probably two dozen stand makers now so there's alot of different types available. Here are some tips you will want to keep in mind while constructing a tree stand: 1. Always use the highest grade components. Use the best grade plywood. Use stainless steel or grade 8 hardware nuts and bolts. Use the best welded chain or aircraft grade cables you can find. It will last a lot longer and you will feel more confident using your stand. 2. When constructing it, take small thin rubber sheets (cut from an old tire inner tube) and place them between every joint possible where metal meets wood. This helps reduce squeaking when you are moving around on the stand. 3. Make the stand as comfortable as possible. The more comfortable you are the longer you will hunt. 4. If your stand has parts such as wingnuts or pins to remove while hooking it on to a tree, then carry spares in a plastic box or bag taped to the stand in case you lose one of these. I keep two extra wing nuts screwed onto two bolts on my stand after spending time looking for a dropped wingnut 10 minutes before daybreak while it was 30 degrees. 5. Always take a 25-30 foot piece of 3/8" nylon rope to raise/lower your weapon that can also be used as a deer drag. 6. Camouflage your stand with paint or tape at least two months prior to using it for hunting. This will give the odors time to air out. 7. Test your tree stand by hooking it on a tree TWO FEET off the ground and jumping up and down on it. See if it will slip or bend/break now rather than when you are 15 feet up in the tree. Now is a good time to get used to your stand and how it feels. Practice standing up and sitting down with a bow if you bowhunt while wearing your safety strap. Try to do it quietly. 8. Keep your stand in good repair. Fix or replace any part you suspect to be weak. This may be your life here! 9. If you are using a loc-on stand, take two med. size nails and a hammer to drive through the chain or just under the cable that secures it to the tree. This will help to keep it from slipping. (Remove the nails when you leave) (See Drawing Below) 10. Don't leave your stand in the woods on public land if you think others may be nearby during daylight hours. Overnite is probably ok but you are taking a chance even on private land. | | | | | |<tree | | | | | | o+L|xxxxxxx|--| <-- Drive nails here or just / + | | below cable to prevent slip. / + | | Remove when leaving. / + | | 1/8" cable(2)> / + | | / + | | / + | | eyebolt / + | | through o LLLLL| | outside ------------------| | corners of 24x19plywood >Anderson for his initial ascii drawings. And to echo his advise: >Always wear a safety strap! They say that falling out of a tree stand >is the greatest danger facing deer hunters Agreed, always wear a strap. >tim Keith --- | Keith M. Boyd (NCR E&M Cola.) | Nothing could be fina' than huntin' and | | 3325 Platt Springs Rd. _______| fishin' in South Carolina! -Me- | | West Cola., S.C. 29170 | Std Disclaimers | keith@clodII.columbiasc.NCR.COM | | ph: 803-791-6419 | From uunet: !uunet!ncrcom!ncrcae!sauron!clodII!keith |