rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu (Tim Rigg) (04/02/91)
What is the best broadhead for deer hunting? I know this is like asking someone to explain their choice between the various brands of pickup trucks but I am curious. For background, I shoot a Martin Prowler set to 60 pounds draw with 50% letoff. My arrows are Easton XX75 2117's. I may move up to 65-70 pounds and 2219 arrows. I am currently thinking about a 125 grain head but am willing to change... Also, what sort of heads are used for other game such as rabbit, quail, turkey, and squirrel? thanks tim
keith@clodii.columbiasc.NCR.COM (04/03/91)
>From: Tim Rigg <rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu> Tim Rigg wants to know about points for small game animals: >Also, what sort of heads are used for other game such as rabbit, >quail, turkey, and squirrel? ^^^^^ Come now Tim, surely you jest!! ;-)) A quail is hard enough to hit with a shotgun let alone a bow! If you learn to do this I want to see it!! Seriously though, there is a broadhead available for small game and it's called a judo point. It has three or four little fingers designed to prevent penetration. The shock of the impact alone should be enough to dispatch your game. >thanks >tim --- | Keith M. Boyd (NCR E+M Col.) | Nothing could be fina' than hunting and | | 3325 Platt Springs Rd. | fishing in South Carolina! -Me- | | West Cola., S.C. 29170 | Fax: 791-6998 | keith@clodII.Columbia.NCR.COM | | Vp: 803-791-6420 | From uunet: !uunet!ncrlink!ncrcae!sauron!clodII!keith |
rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu (04/03/91)
From: keith@clodii.columbiasc.NCR.COM >From: Tim Rigg <rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu> >Also, what sort of heads are used for other game such as rabbit, >quail, turkey, and squirrel? ^^^^^ Come now Tim, surely you jest!! ;-)) A quail is hard enough to hit with a shotgun let alone a bow! If you learn to do this I want to see it!! Maybe I have my birds mixed up. I was not talking about the baseball sized birds that travel in groups and make you fill your shorts when they all explode. I was talking about the volleyball-sized birds that wander around on the forest floor, usually alone or in groups of 2-3. Maybe the bigger birds are Partridges. I didn't think I could hit one flying but the handicap of using a bow seems like enough to justify shooting them while they are walking on the ground. After all: they aren't that big, they are moving, and you have to be pretty smooth to get a close, unobstructed shot. Seriously though, there is a broadhead available for small game and it's called a judo point. It has three or four little fingers designed to prevent penetration. The shock of the impact alone should be enough to dispatch your game. Would you recommend a judo point for turkey? or partridge (or big-volleyball-sized bird from above)? tim
spickett@orion.oac.uci.edu (04/04/91)
In article <465@erb1.engr.wisc.edu> you write: >What is the best broadhead for deer hunting? I know this is like >asking someone to explain their choice between the various brands of >pickup trucks but I am curious. If you're good at sharpening things I've had good luck with Zwickeys and if you're not good at sharpening then I've had good results with Rockey Mountain Razors,Thunderheads, and Muzzys 130gr heads. I think the Muzzy was the best all-round head. Flys good,solid construction,and comes with a practice blade. Think it's called a Matador. >For background, I shoot a Martin Prowler set to 60 pounds draw with >50% letoff. My arrows are Easton XX75 2117's. I may move up to >65-70 pounds and 2219 arrows. I am currently thinking about a 125 >grain head but am willing to change... You don't say what the arrow length is but its very likely you don't need to go to 2219's. 2213,2215,and 2216's are available. I find that a 2216 at 31.5" works fine at 62 pounds. >Also, what sort of heads are used for other game such as rabbit, >quail, turkey, and squirrel? Zwickey makes a spring goodie that goes over the arrow shaft before the broadhead is installed. I think it's intended purpose is to keep the arrow from passing through small game when a broadhead is used. I think they call it a turkey thumper but I'm not sure. They'd cut down your arrow losses. Also, blunts are real effective on small game. I've heard of guys going after turkey with blunts but I think that would have to be a head shot to work. They work great on all kinds of small game. I like the rubber ones that slide over the end of the shaft. They fly good, their durable, and their cheap:-) Try em, you'll like em! Well Tim, hope that helps. If you have an archery shop nearby they probably carry all this stuff. Try the rubber blunts (name=ATM ??). You just unthread your field points and slide the blunt over the end of the shaft. Then, you can go out in the field and practice shooting at a milk jug or something. It's great practice and helps you get used to figuring distances. The blunts will help keep the arrows from getting hard to find. If you have an excessive gopher population that needs thinning that works good too. Oh yeah, you may want to put something on the shaft to make the blunt come off easy. Mine were a real good fit (read I was going nuts trying to remove one) until I put some silicone lube inside. Hope all this helps. --Steve
tfschli@ns.PacBell.COM (Tim Schlink) (04/04/91)
In article <476@erb1.engr.wisc.edu> rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu writes: > >Maybe I have my birds mixed up. I was not talking about the >baseball sized birds that travel in groups and make you fill your >shorts when they all explode. I was talking about the >volleyball-sized birds that wander around on the forest floor, >usually alone or in groups of 2-3. Maybe the bigger birds are >Partridges. Sounds like grouse to me. -- Tim Schlink: pbseps!tim@PacBell.COM 180 New Montgomery, Room 600, San Francisco, CA 94105 Voice: (415) 542-2735 ***ALL DISCLAIMERS APPLY!!***
spickett@orion.oac.uci.edu (04/04/91)
In article <476@erb1.engr.wisc.edu> you write: > > From: keith@clodii.columbiasc.NCR.COM > >From: Tim Rigg <rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu> > > >Also, what sort of heads are used for other game such as rabbit, > >quail, turkey, and squirrel? > ^^^^^ > Come now Tim, surely you jest!! ;-)) A quail is hard enough to hit with a > shotgun let alone a bow! If you learn to do this I want to see it!! Tim, If you don't think you can do it you won't try and so make it truth. We hunt pheasants out here with a bow and it's not easy but we get birds. I'm talking wing shots - not grounders. The point is to not give up till you've at least given it a good try. >Maybe I have my birds mixed up. I was not talking about the baseball >sized birds that travel in groups and make you fill your shorts when >they all explode. I was talking about the volleyball-sized birds that >wander around on the forest floor, usually alone or in groups of 2-3. >Maybe the bigger birds are Partridges. Maybe grouse also. >I didn't think I could hit one flying but the handicap of using a bow >seems like enough to justify shooting them while they are walking on >the ground. After all: they aren't that big, they are moving, and you >have to be pretty smooth to get a close, unobstructed shot. Theres a special made tip for shooting birds. It looks like a blunt with 4 loops of wire sticking out in different directions. Sorta looks like a big 4-leaf clover. It works like a blunt with a direct hit and like a snare for the near miss. One other thing about shooting birds with a bow. Theres a different type arrow used called a "flu-flu". The only difference is it has oversized feathers instead of vanes. The big feathers slow it down so it doesn't go far and for birds you won't be shooting far anyway. Makes chasing the arrows easy. > > Seriously though, there is a broadhead available for small game and it's > called a judo point. It has three or four little fingers designed to prevent > penetration. The shock of the impact alone should be enough to dispatch your > game. Judo points aren't broadheads. Their blunts. >Would you recommend a judo point for turkey? the spring attachement I meantioned before is made by Zwickey. The same company makes the judo points. I don't think they'd stop a turkey unless it was a head shot. Thats probably why the other product was offered. Sounds logical anyway. --Steve
barkelew@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (David Barkelew) (04/05/91)
In article <465@erb1.engr.wisc.edu> rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu (Tim Rigg) writes: > What is the best broadhead for deer hunting? I know this is like > asking someone to explain their choice between the various brands of > pickup trucks but I am curious. > > For background, I shoot a Martin Prowler set to 60 pounds draw with > 50% letoff. My arrows are Easton XX75 2117's. I may move up to > 65-70 pounds and 2219 arrows. I am currently thinking about a 125 > grain head but am willing to change... > > Also, what sort of heads are used for other game such as rabbit, > quail, turkey, and squirrel? > > thanks > tim Well, I would say that a lot of it depends on personal preference. I personally use the Muzzy 125 grain. This broadhead is different than most in that it has two triangular solid steel blades that slide togather to make a 4-blade broadhead. This assembly is inserted into an aluminum broadhead shaft, then a carbide point is screwed on top to secure the whole thing. I shoot a Point Blank (Pro Line) at 82 lbs, Trophy Hunter release, shoot through rest (can't remember the brand), crosshair sights, 8 inch stabilizer, and (are you ready for this?) 2213 XX75 arrows at about 28 1/4 inches. I can spit arrows out at around 245 fps with this setup, and hit something the size of a softball with 5 of 6 arrows at 50 yds. I have been bowhunting for about 10 years; I started with the Darton SL-50M at around 60 lbs, for those of you who have been around a while. Now, before all of you start telling me that my arrows don't have enough spline, please consider that I use a release and a shoot through rest, and that this combo works pretty darn good for me :-) Now, back to the Muzzy broadheads. I have shot a variety of broadheads such as Wasp, Sattelite, Razorback, Anderson, and yes, even Bear. The Bear broadheads were the only ones (IMHO) that are anywhere near a tuff as the Muzzy, but they were always such a pain to sharpen... :-( Three years ago, a shot a Fallow deer at a 45 degree angle down from a tree in west Texas. The Muzzy (with it's steel point) cut completly through the spine between the front sholders. The deer field dreessed at 141 lbs, so you can get a feel for the size of the spine bone. That single incident sold me on them. Of course, your mileage may vary... Again, choice of broadheads depends a lot on your personal preferences as well as what you intend to shoot. For example, Adders and field points work fine for me when I'm out shooting rabbits or other small game. -- David Barkelew Internet: barkelew@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu University of Texas THEnet: UTXVMS::BARKELEW Computation Center BITNET: barkelew@utxvms Unix/VMS Services YELLnet: (512)471-3241 "If I've told you once, I've told you a bazillion times - *NO*! "
gary@eleazar.dartmouth.edu (Gary Trouette) (04/05/91)
In article <484@erb1.engr.wisc.edu> spickett@orion.oac.uci.edu writes: >In article <465@erb1.engr.wisc.edu> you write: >>What is the best broadhead for deer hunting? I know this is like >>asking someone to explain their choice between the various brands of >>pickup trucks but I am curious. > > >Well Tim, hope that helps. If you have an archery shop nearby they >probably carry all this stuff. Try the rubber blunts (name=ATM ??). >You just unthread your field points and slide the blunt over the end >of the shaft. Then, you can go out in the field and practice shooting >at a milk jug or something. It's great practice and helps you get used >to figuring distances. The blunts will help keep the arrows from These blunts are called HTM's I believe. My father used to use them for non-lethal shots (neighbors dogs, etc.) Once while he was hunting he spotted what he thought was a doe grazing. So, he thought he would be get some extra practice, nocked the old HTM, and let fly... You can guess that he was probably as surprised as the deer when the "doe" jumped up showing off a nice rack... :) Of course it ran away before he could get a real arrow. > >--Steve -gary@eleazar.dartmouth.edu Of course I wouldn't recommend this to anyone... It could be kind of hairy explaining to a fish cop why you were shooting a doe...
patvh@vice.ICO.TEK.COM (Pat Van Hoomissen) (04/06/91)
> From: Rigg@osnome.che.wisc.edu (Tim Rigg) > >Maybe I have my birds mixed up. I was not talking about the baseball >sized birds that travel in groups and make you fill your shorts when >they all explode. I was talking about the volleyball-sized birds that >wander around on the forest floor, usually alone or in groups of 2-3. >Maybe the bigger birds are Partridges. > >I didn't think I could hit one flying but the handicap of using a bow >seems like enough to justify shooting them while they are walking on > >tim Sluice 'em if you must, but if you can't identify the birds, you have no business shooting them. They sound like grouse. .
marko@hutch (Mark O'Shea) (06/13/91)
Hi Again, Well I've got my bow and I've followed most of your advice. I practice at least once a week. I've got it all sighted in and I can put all the arrows inside the red ring at 30 yards and in the blue at 50 yards. I got a release and that made one heck of a difference-thanks for that guys. I am about to buy some broadheads. The season begins in just over two months and I want to be sure and have them and shoot them a time or two so I know how they shoot. I have more questions. Given that the weight is the same, e.g. 125 grains, will the broadhead's design affect the arrow's flight. Is there a "best" design in your opinion? Is there a brand/type/style to avoid? May the wind be in your favor. Mark O'Shea marko@ijf1.intel.com BTW when last I asked for advice it was about stabilizers. The consensus was that they were more for target shooting. I found-as one person suggested-a looser grip on the bow eliminated the twist and subsequent low-left tendency. I decided against getting a stabilizer-less weight. Where I plan to hunt is at 4500' and up so the less weight the better.
james@Solbourne.COM (James B. Davis) (06/14/91)
>From article <1991Jun13.085437.18841@doug.cae.wisc.edu>, by marko@hutch (Mark O'Shea): > Hi Again, > > Well I've got my bow and I've followed most of your advice. I practice > at least once a week. I've got it all sighted in and I can put all the > arrows inside the red ring at 30 yards and in the blue at 50 yards. I got > a release and that made one heck of a difference-thanks for that guys. > > I am about to buy some broadheads. The season begins in just over two > months and I want to be sure and have them and shoot them a time or two > so I know how they shoot. > > I have more questions. Given that the weight is the same, e.g. 125 grains, > will the broadhead's design affect the arrow's flight. Is there a "best" > design in your opinion? Is there a brand/type/style to avoid? > > May the wind be in your favor. > Mark O'Shea > marko@ijf1.intel.com > > BTW when last I asked for advice it was about stabilizers. The consensus was > that they were more for target shooting. I found-as one person suggested-a > looser grip on the bow eliminated the twist and subsequent low-left tendency. > I decided against getting a stabilizer-less weight. Where I plan to hunt is > at 4500' and up so the less weight the better. I shoot Muzzy I's (115 grain) and my target points are the same weight. When I practice with both (all mixed shots) they all end up in the same group. Consistancy is important! My other hunting buddies practice the same techniques but they all have different broadheads/weights/bows/arrow lengths/etc... I don't think the style of the broadhead matters much - just the placement and velocity are most important (per just about every "professional" I have seen in every bowhunting seminar I've been to). I reccommend getting the book "Balanced Bowhunting" - great reading and the author gives a good seminar. Though I am on my third year for this type of hunting (rifle hunted for 12 yrs) and have yet to connect, I feel confident that I can place a good shot with my broadheads. Now if I can get over buck fever all over again... BTW, we all hunt at an alt from 8k' and up. My arrow travels alittle faster at higher alts (205fps at 5k and 211fps at 9k) - you might want to practice alittle where you plan to hunt. james -- James B. Davis, Consulting Engineer, Tactical Engineering Dept. Internet: james@solbourne.com Mailnet: Solbourne Computer, Inc., 1900 Pike Road, Longmont, CO 80501 USA Phonenet: (303) 772-3400 Faxnet: (303) 772-3646
shawn@emx.utexas.edu (Shawn Boyd) (06/14/91)
In article <1991Jun13.085437.18841@doug.cae.wisc.edu> marko@hutch (Mark O'Shea) writes: >Hi Again, > >Well I've got my bow and I've followed most of your advice. I practice >at least once a week. I've got it all sighted in and I can put all the >arrows inside the red ring at 30 yards and in the blue at 50 yards. I got >a release and that made one heck of a difference-thanks for that guys. > Hello Mark, Sounds like pretty durn good shooting to me. I saw your comments/questions on equipment, and have some references you might be interested in. I've only been shooting my bow for a little over two years now, and have only recently begun hunting with it. Last season we went for deer and javelina. No kills yet, but those come with time. I have been looking seriously at equipment for some time now, and must say I agree with you about releases. I shoot a Trophy Hunter myself, and don't plan to go back to fingers (tab or glove) unless I start shooting a recurve in FITA shoots. Anyway, my experience is by no means the best you'll benefit from, but here's what I've found out about broadheads and stabilizers. >I am about to buy some broadheads. The season begins in just over two >months and I want to be sure and have them and shoot them a time or two >so I know how they shoot. > Take a serious look at Muzzy's. They're made up by the archer by component (as are most broadheads nowadays) before the hunt. Muzzy's are somewhat special in that they have fully interlocking cutting blades which slide into the ferrule in a way which guarantees that they absolutely won't slip out after the broadhead is assembled -- surprisingly not all broadheads have this feature :-( and I've been particularly disappointed with certain triblades in this regard. The muzzy tip is its most distinctive feature. The firm refers to it as a "trocar" tip (apparently the term comes to us from old French mean- ing three sided blade or the rough equivalent). It's a chisel like component which screws down over the ferrule at the point, and locks in the cutting blades. It's a very tough little unit. I shoot with a friend who's been at this a lot longer than I have. He's a darn good shot, and hunts regularly, and he swears by 'em. The company is Muzzy Products Inc., 3705 S.W. 42nd Place Gainesville, Florida 32608 (904/372-5943). Their catalog is free. Along the more classic lines, the Savora Superflites are fairly rugged, and lend themselves more easily than Muzzy's to resharpening (IMHO) and if you want a lotta steel on the front of your arrow, check out the Bear Super Razor Head -- it's got two breakaway bleeder blades which inflict trauma right to bone at which point they (hopefully) breakaway allowing the heavy (and I mean heavy) steel two sided main blade to (again hopefully) keep going. The main blade is chiselled by the factory at the tip. You can easily shave arm hairs with any of these right out of the bubble package they come in. BTW, ignore the Bear tri-blade offering; it's worthless -- the blades come out of the ferrule at the slightest provocation. One of the more exotic developments are the collapsibles which have blades which fold into the body of the ferrule, and spring open on impact with your target. Apparently, these fly more like field/bullet points most of us use to practice with, and cause less planing at the front of the arrow -- ain't no wings (in the form of cutting blades) out there to cause this to happen. I'm sorry to say I haven't tried these yet, so I personally can't vouch for them, but the reviews I've read have been downright rave. I'll let you know if I find out anything else. WATCH OUT -- these are not legal in all states. I am also not sure how the blades are replaced if broken or dulled. I find more debate about broadheads than I know how to listen or respond to, so I tend to proffer what I hope will be informed advice when asked and make sure I respect everyone else's as well when the subject of broadheads comes up. Chuck Adam's Bowhunter's Digest has an excellent chapter on the subject, and I recommend it. One thing I will say without equivocation, and of which I am 100 percent sure; your broadheads have just got to be sharp. No debate, no qualifications. A dull broadhead might be good for parts, or MAYBE practice. I personally won't have one in my kit, and would never shoot one at an animal. I'm sure you know this. Please forgive me for "preaching to the choir." One item which really helps here is a couple of good broadhead cases. They run six or seven bucks (you can spend more if you want to, but it's not necessary) and they do a great job of protecting an expensive and deadly piece of tackle. >I have more questions. Given that the weight is the same, e.g. 125 grains, >will the broadhead's design affect the arrow's flight. Is there a "best" >design in your opinion? Is there a brand/type/style to avoid? > Anyone who's shooting good groups at fifty yards has my respect. It took me quite a while to get there, so I offer this as an opinion only. I like Muzzy's a lot. My opinion is still conjecture only (until I've killed with the tip) but I've shot them, handled, assembled and disassembled them, and am impressed with their sturdiness, flight characteristics and reputation for deadliness. They come in packs of five for $20.00 to $25.00 from various retailers (nope, they ain't cheap) and include a set of practice blades which do a good job of simulating the flight characteristics of the hunting blades. You install the practice blades in the ferrule when practicing before the hunt, and you have an arrow which flies the same with its practice tips as with its hunting tips. Actually the difference between the practice and hunting blades is merely that the practice blades are not Solengen steel, and are not sharpened. The hunting blades are. I generally leave these at home, unless I go out specifically for the purpose of practicing with my broadheads, and I don't keep them in my hunting kit. In answer to your question about broadhead design affecting arrow flight, alas yes it will. The amount depends on how all of your tackle shoots together and how you the archer shoot with it. I've seen some guys screw on a broadhead and tune up in 10 or 20 shots. I've seen some that looked like they shouldn't be shooting that day after they put on their broadheads. I have fallen into both categories, and can only say from both happy and sad experiences on the matter, that you often find that trial and error are the best teachers. Ouch! I shoot a 30" XX75 2213 (at 70 lbs peak draw) off a fork rest through a center shot handle riser. I've shot a little 90 grain Muzzy (and yes they make them in other sizes) up through a 145 grain Bear off my bow, and have found that five inch, "high-profile" fletching can go a long way toward helping the problems you may have. It certainly helped me. >May the wind be in your favor. > And yours as well; especially just as you're taking your shot. >BTW when last I asked for advice it was about stabilizers. The consensus was >that they were more for target shooting. Certainly true for recurves, but personally with my compound I prefer to use a stabilizer -- not one of those long ones, mind you; mine's a six inch 12 oz. Accra #3200. Even a small stabilizer will help eliminate torque, and it's awful hard to shoot with a soft hand when the temperature is below freezing. I speak from experience on that one. I won't epoxy my stabilizer into the handle riser of my bow, but I've never shot without it since I put it on. It doesn't make as much difference as 24 or 30 inch 1 1/2 pound rod, but it does make some difference, and of course the long ones just aren't practical in the brush. It also just happens to make my bow a leeettle teensy bit quieter, so I leave it on. They run about $5.00 or $10.00. What the heck, get one and put it in your kit; you might like it. They can also be screwed into extender rods to use on the range for some fun when you target shoot. They do make a difference. You can also get a knuckle joint that allows them to collapse down parallel to the handle riser when not in use, but allowing immediate pop up so you can bring it into quick service when you're starting your hunt. Very handy if your case is too small for the bow and the stabilizer together. >I found-as one person suggested-a looser grip on the bow eliminated the twist >and subsequent low-left tendency. Absolutely. The person(s) who told you this, knew their stuff; but just try it on a cold cold cold day. I shoot this way, and recommend the technique. The last time I measured was over a year ago, but at that time this method of release took an average of 1 3/4 diameter inches off my groups at forty yards. Anyway, if you intend to make this your style, be sure to consider a wrist sling. I've seen good archers drop their bow more than once. I've never dropped mine, but without my wrist sling I most assuredly would have. >I decided against getting a stabilizer-less weight. Where I plan to hunt is >at 4500' and up so the less weight the better. Sounds cold, maybe wet too. Definately think about a wrist sling. I sure do like mine. It removes the temptation to shoot hammer fisted when conditions are challenging. You can save yourself some $$$ on this stuff with mail orders. I have the addresses of several good discount outlets if you're interested, and don't already have them. Bowhunting World also has a special equipment issue just out which they are leaving on your dealer's racks throught December '91. It's $4.00, but it's worth it. Best of luck with your Hunting. I probably will pipe down after this posting. Generally I'm not verbose, and rarely post; but archery always excites me. Good to meet you. Sincerely, Shawn Boyd Austin, Texas
mikew@uunet.UU.NET (Mr. Mike Weaver; ACS (OP)) (06/15/91)
In article <1991Jun13.085437.18841@doug.cae.wisc.edu> marko@hutch (Mark O'Shea) writes: >Hi Again, > >Well I've got my bow and I've followed most of your advice. I practice >at least once a week. I've got it all sighted in and I can put all the >arrows inside the red ring at 30 yards and in the blue at 50 yards. I got >a release and that made one heck of a difference-thanks for that guys. > Good shooting. Remember though that groups shot on the range are usually under optimum conditions and you might not shoot as well in the field. This is one reason why practicing in the field is so important. Some clubs have walk-through competition shoots at realistic animal targets that add a bit of adrenaline to practicing. Just something to think about... Keep practicing. >I have more questions. Given that the weight is the same, e.g. 125 grains, >will the broadhead's design affect the arrow's flight. Is there a "best" >design in your opinion? Is there a brand/type/style to avoid? > Well, no matter what broadhead you choose, practice with it. Many do not shoot into the same hole as your field points. Plan on getting extra broadheads and/or blades to use solely for practice. My father and I have had good success with the Satellite family of broadheads. They have a hardened steel point, a body of aluminum, and either carbon, or stainless steel replaceable blades. My father has shot several deer where the broadhead has completely severed ribs. They also shoot very close to my normal point of impact for field points. There are about a zillion broadheads to choose from, and most if not all will do the job well. Do you plan on hunting mainly deer? If so, the type of point on the head may not be a consideration. If you plan on hunting bear at some point, you may want to know that some research indicates that a small amount of penetration ability is lost with broadheads that do not cut immediately on impact. (ie those with a round point). (I have an article out of one of my hunting magazines with references to an informal study done with cowhides that I can dig up next time I'm home if you want.) For deer, and other 'thin-skinned' game, the type of point really is your choice. The only broadhead that I have heard not-so-glorious-things about is the Savora broadhead. As far as I know, they do not (or didn't used to have) a hardened steel tip, and may bend on impact, but these are third hand stories... Sorry for the length here, but I love archery/bowhunting. Welcome to a great sport. >May the wind be in your favor. >Mark O'Shea >marko@ijf1.intel.com > Mike Weaver mikew@umbc4.umbc.edu
spickett@orion.oac.uci.edu (Steve Pickett) (06/15/91)
In article <1991Jun14.080839.24423@doug.cae.wisc.edu> ut-emx!shawn@emx.utexas.edu (Shawn Boyd) writes: > >In article <1991Jun13.085437.18841@doug.cae.wisc.edu> marko@hutch (Mark O'Shea) writes: > >One of the more exotic developments are the collapsibles which have >blades which fold into the body of the ferrule, and spring open on >impact with your target. Apparently, these fly more like field/bullet >points most of us use to practice with, and cause less planing at the >front of the arrow -- ain't no wings (in the form of cutting blades) >out there to cause this to happen. I'm sorry to say I haven't tried >these yet, so I personally can't vouch for them, but the reviews I've >read have been downright rave. I'll let you know if I find out >anything else. WATCH OUT -- these are not legal in all states. I am >also not sure how the blades are replaced if broken or dulled. ----------------- I can vouch for these broadheads and would definately stay away from them. When they first came out everybody was saying how great they were and that same year we had many guys loose animals to these broadheads. Thats something like 5 out of our party of 9 hunters. I saw several of the shots and know they were on target but got poor penetration. We recovered one animal after trailing it several hours. The rest just kept on going. It was a most depressing situation for all and hope relating it will keep someone else from going through the same thing. I'm sure it was just luck that we recovered the one we did as most of the hits resulted in almost no blood trail. Since then, many other guys we shoot with have related similar experiences and all are back to shooting fixed blade or replacable blade broadheads. >I find more debate about broadheads than I know how to listen or >respond to, so I tend to proffer what I hope will be informed advice >when asked and make sure I respect everyone else's as well when the >subject of broadheads comes up. Chuck Adam's Bowhunter's Digest has >an excellent chapter on the subject, and I recommend it. One thing I >will say without equivocation, and of which I am 100 percent sure; >your broadheads have just got to be sharp. No debate, no >qualifications. A dull broadhead might be good for parts, or MAYBE >practice. I personally won't have one in my kit, and would never >shoot one at an animal. I'm sure you know this. Please forgive me >for "preaching to the choir." One item which really helps here is a >couple of good broadhead cases. They run six or seven bucks (you can >spend more if you want to, but it's not necessary) and they do a great >job of protecting an expensive and deadly piece of tackle. -------------------- Absolutely. If its not SHARP, it should only be used as a paperweight. I prefer a fixed blade broadhead so get lots of practice in the sharpening catagory and probably own one of every sharpening device ever marketed as a result. One method I found that I like requires a small pair of vice grips, a flat surface, and a sheet of emery cloth in a fine grit like about 400. I like the wet and dry stuff and get it from auto parts suppliers. I grip the blade with the grips, lay the paper on the flat surface, and draw the blade across the paper. The width of the jaws helps me maintain the angle I want and the fine paper gives a good finish to the edge. I touch the edge up with a ceramic stick. This works with removable blades very well also. Chuck Adams gave a tip on making a broadhead box I liked which involved a container of your choice with a piece of foam stuffed in it. I get pieces of foam like the stuff they make quiver inserts out of and cut it to fit a plastic box from the market. Sharp broadheads slip into this stuff real easy. If they don't, they aren't sharp enough. Put the lid on and I'm in business. --Steve