martin@mozart.amd.com (Martin Schuessler) (06/04/91)
While we're on the subject of 45 ( or any other semi-auto ) modifications: I've seen the "Group Grippers" advertised in the Midway catalog. What exactly is it and is it worth it ??? Price is around $30. Secondly, they also advertise Wilson's Match triggers for around $30. Do these also change the trigger pull or is it simply a replacement trigger ?? For reference, I have an IAI Hardballer in 45ACP. It has adjustable Millet sights, and shoots decent groups. I was looking at either or both of the two options above to cut down on group size a little more. I don't want to spend several hundred dollars just yet to do major modifications. Any advice appreciated. -- Martin Schuessler
osmigo@emx.utexas.edu (Ron Morgan) (06/04/91)
(question about Group-Grippers and Wilson match triggers) The Dwyer Group-Gripper is a special link and recoil spring guide that causes the barrel to lock up more solidly. It increases accuracy considerably, and you might say it's a good substitute for a match barrel. Install the Group-Gripper (preferably with the full-length guide rod) and have a match bushing fitted (cost: about $15 for the bushing and $25 for fitting) and you should just about cut your group size in half. The Wilson trigger is just a lightweight trigger. When tight trigger jobs are done on a pistol with tiny amounts of clearance on the sear, the inertia of a heavy trigger can cause the firearm to go into full-auto mode, among other things. If you want a *good* trigger, the *only* thing to get is the McCormick titanium hammer and firing pin, installed with top-notch trigger work. Due to its light weight, the titanium parts reduce the lock time by as much as 70%. "Lock time" is the time that elapses from when the sear is released until the hammer strikes the primer. In other words, it dramatically speeds up the entire firing process. Plan on spending about $180 to have this stuff fitted, parts and labor. This modification is universal among IPSC and Steel Challenge shooters. I've fired several 1911-types with the McCormick parts, and the feel is *incredible*. It's like breaking a glass hair. Before you even realize the trigger has moved, the gun has already fired. If you're into any kind of pistol competition, this capability is indispensable. The sooner the primer is hit after you pull the trigger, the less the sights will move off-target, and remember, those sights are *constantly* moving. Well, didn't mean to ramble, but.....(-8 Ron Morgan osmigo@emx.utexas.edu
boyd@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Mickey Boyd) (06/06/91)
In article <35172@mimsy.umd.edu>, martin@mozart.amd.com (Martin Schuessler) writes:
#While we're on the subject of 45 ( or any other semi-auto ) modifications:
#
#I've seen the "Group Grippers" advertised in the Midway catalog. What exactly
#is it and is it worth it ??? Price is around $30.
Well, one product that I have seen which is called a Group Gripper consists
of a new barrel link and recoil spring guide. The guide has a spring loaded
thingy which mates with a ledge in the new link, thus pushing the barrel up
into the lugs (in theory giving a tighter more consistant battery state). I
am dubious. I little work with a stone and some abrasive grease got my
Colt to lock up quite nicely. Also, you are adding some more moving parts
to the gun in an area that get's really dirty when shooting. For a competition
gun maybe, for a defense gun . . . . nope.
#
#Secondly, they also advertise Wilson's Match triggers for around $30. Do these
#also change the trigger pull or is it simply a replacement trigger ??
Most replacement triggers are made slightly oversized, to allow hand fitting.
Again, if you use a stone or some other abrasive to knock the burrs off the
trigger/frame tracks, you will probably find that your current trigger will
do just fine. In terms of the trigger, this is the only thing that will
affect the feel (of course, a long trigger with a wide surface "feels"
different than a short thin one, and there is a difference in feel between
smooth and serreted trigger faces). I would try a little (very little)
smoothing up and some RIG in the frame tracks before I spent my bucks.
#For reference, I have an IAI Hardballer in 45ACP. It has adjustable Millet
#sights, and shoots decent groups. I was looking at either or both of the two
#options above to cut down on group size a little more. I don't want to spend
#several hundred dollars just yet to do major modifications.
Accurizing autos (or revolvers, for that matter) is an art that involves
many many variables. It is unlikely that any "drop in" type mod will
yield appreciably better accuracy (in a gun that is already fairly accurate,
since you are looking for "little" things). If your gun has never been
worked on I would take it to a gunsmith and just have him "smooth it up".
Mine took about 20 minutes to do, and the difference was like night and day.
At that point, you can start thinking about some accurizing stuff, like
tightening the slide/frame fit, recutting the muzzle crown, installing a
match barrel, having a new bushing hand fitted to your barrel/slide, etc.
These are all expensive, but some combination of them will squeeze that last
little bit of accuracy out of your gun. Also, remember that an "accurized"
gun (being inherently "tighter" than a stock gun) will also be more prone to
jam when dirty. Also note that IAI stainless has been rated at "a bit soft"
by some folks, so expensive accurizing might "wear away" quicker than on a
carbon steel gun (note that most $$$$$ comp guns are built with carbon
steel parts, then blued or hard-chromed). I saw an old Hardballer (marked
AMT) that I could whittle with my pocket knife!!
--
Mickey R. Boyd | "God is a comedian playing to an
FSU Computer Science | audience too afraid to laugh."
Technical Support Group |
email: boyd@fsucs.cs.fsu.edu | - Voltaire