Scott_Busse@mindlink.bc.ca (Scott Busse) (05/08/91)
Ethan, the procedure for putting Amiga generated images to film is basically a matter of transferring the images to a computer that has a film recorder connected to it. This may involve transferring the IFF image to some other format, via ADPro or RasterLink, and writing it to a PC or Mac format, via XDOS or whatever, in order to get it onto the other machine. A friend of mine has an Amiga/AT_bridge setup with a Matrix QCR film recorder attached, that he outputs images created on the Amiga with software like Caligari. Alternatively, there are services available that you can mail your disked images to and have them film recorded. I don't recall any names right now, but perhaps someone else will kick this info in... It occurs to me now that there are drivers available for the Amiga to control film recorders directly. I believe ASDG and Active Circuits have such products, but you'll have to check. -- * Scott Busse email: O O O_ _ ___ ..... * CIS 73040,2114 ||| /|\ /\ O/\_ / O )=| * scott_busse@mindlink.UUCP l | | |\ / \ /\ _\ * scott_busse@mindlink.bc.ca Live Long and Animate... \
es1@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Ethan Solomita) (05/09/91)
I know someone who is interested in getting an Amiga but has some concerns about outputting from Amiga to FILM, not video tape or such. What are the common procedures to do this, and how much do they cost? Thanks, -- Ethan "Brain! Brain! What is Brain?"
neil@celia.UUCP (Neil Richmond) (05/15/91)
In article <1991May8.233207.31018@cunixf.cc.columbia.edu> es1@cunixb.cc.columbia.edu (Ethan Solomita) writes: > > I know someone who is interested in getting an Amiga but >has some concerns about outputting from Amiga to FILM, not video >tape or such. What are the common procedures to do this, and how >much do they cost? > Thanks, > -- Ethan > >"Brain! Brain! What is Brain?" Going to film is not too unlike going to video. So I will just talk about the output process. First, thing you need is a high resolution imaging system. We usually work at at least 2k images. But if you are on a budget, a 1k image should suffice. You will need some high quality monitor, definitely RGB. Whatever you are doing, computer generated or paintbox kind of imagery, you will need a camera. The best camera is one that is designed to scan from the computer to film. There is usually a flat, high resolution screen about 4-6" in diameter and a color filter wheel and the image is shot in three passes. If the camera-recorder is designed to shoot from a computer, it will have a computer interface like RS-232 for the controller part. To buy a device like this is quite expensive. We use Solitaire's that go up to 4k, but we have been shooting at 2k. The polaroid pallette might be adapted for motion picture, but it is not set up for that. You would have quite a project adapting it to shoot motion picture. If you are on a real budget, you could shoot from the monitor and get satisfactory results. It will not be the greatest quality, but it works. I do it this way. You have to move the camera far from the screen to minimize the effect of the curved screen. You will also need a color correction filter be cause the monitor, being a high energy source tends to make the colors a litle green. You could make the correction in your shooting software. Just make the images redder when you shoot them. You will have to manufacture a box that will control a camera. There are some available commercially, that are used for motion control, that will do the job. Not as expensive as a Solitaire. Also, remember your animation will be at 24 fps instead of 30 fps. Once you get the mechanism working, you will have to start shooting wedges. You need to shoot wedges because the colors on the film, will be different from what you see on the monitor. This is because film reacts differently to different colors. Also, different films react differently. You may know this from still photography. You will need to shoot different exposures to find the one that you like. In still photography, this is called bracketting a shot. You will need to try different exposure times and apertures. You may need to try different filters for color compensation and a set of neutral density filters comes in handy. As for processing, 100 ft of 16mm negative or reversal will cost about $25 a roll to develop, it is a little less per foot if you shoot more. It will cost about $25 to make a print. I recommend making a print, to protect your negative. I always shoot negative these days. If you want to shoot 35mm the price goes up for everything, camera, processing. If you want to do sound, you will have to invest in mag track. This is film with a sound recording base on it. It is mechanically interlocked to the picture. You will need a large facility to handle this, although you can do some work on a synch block. If you can afford to rent a movieola, you can accomplish much more. It all depends on your budget. Without knowing what experience you have, I don't think I can go on without turning this into a course in animation and film making. neil -- Only 3154 shopping days left till the next millenium! Neil F. Richmond INTERNET: celia!neil@usc.edu Rhythm & Hues Inc. UUCP: ...{ames,hplabs}!lll-tis!celia!neil)