[comp.sys.ibm.pc.misc] Building a clone: summary

ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Nur Iskandar Taib) (02/26/91)

Summary:

A few people wrote: why build a clone instead of buying 
one? After actually comparing prices, I'll have to agree.
If its savings you're after, you won't save much, about 
$100, at least on the high end machines. If you'd like to 
learn about hardware, or are doing it out of sheer adven-
ture, it might be a good idea. You don't get the TRW ser-
vice warranty, though.

Motherboards: There was a long thread about DTK MBs on 
comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware. Basically, some had incompa-
tibilities with certain video and controller boards. A
larger number of people wrote and said they didn't have
any problems with them. These other MBs got favorable
comments: Mylex, Omnitel, Micronics, Cache Computers. 
The thing to watch out for are a name brand BIOS (AMI, 
Phoenix, Award) and a good chipset (C&T, Tseng, Micro-
nics?, Intel etc.). There are something like 30-40 dif-
ferent motherboard manufacturers out there though.

Hard drives: The consensus seems to be Conners are best,
Seagates are OK, stay away from Miniscribes, and Maxtors
aren't too great. IDE's got some good comments, but there 
has been some traffic on the Net recently about the ina-
bility to low-level format the things when they start 
hiccuping. The Mitsubishi 535 got a favorable mention. 
The ST4096 supposedly has problems.

Keyboard: Northgate or Fujitsu. Get the 4700 Fujitsu, not 
the 4800.

Video: The Samsung Syncmaster .28 got a favorable mention.
Cheap VGA/SVGA cards seem OK in general, but may not work
with cheap (Kumi, Bullet, Quantum, Hyundai, Nanao) monitors.
The Orchid Prodesigner II has gotten great reviews for its
speed. 

Chassis: Get a good, well-filtered power supply. Get a full 
size case rather than a Baby AT -  runs cooler.

Floppies: TEACs are supposedly the best. 

Vendors: JDR is good, but pricey. Its OK for buying compo-
nents but not whole systems or kits. One person says to 
avoid Jameco. PC Express, Altex, PC Warehouse and Adtech 
got favorable mentions. So did Bulldog. Many people made 
the comment that they bought from local clone houses. It
would be easier to get replacements that way.

Below are the mail messages I received. Read them if you
like, otherwise type n. There are some interesting things 
said that would be worth looking at. 

Iskandar

---------------------------------------------------------------
From ong@d.cs.okstate.edu Fri Feb 15 11:50:13 1991
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Date:     Fri, 15 Feb 91 10:41:51 CST
From: ong@d.cs.okstate.edu
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Status: OR

Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?

ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Nur Iskandar Taib):
> I am about to start construction on a clone, and would 
> like some advice about where to begin. First of all, there
> are something like 50 ads in Computer Shopper for compo-
> nents, but precious little advice about what to buy. 
> 
> Has anyone else built a clone? Any advice to give me? What
> companies should I avoid? JDR has a good reputation, but 
> their prices are a little high. The cheaper companies are
> relatively unknown. How far can you trust a company called 
> "Bulldog"? A couple friends have done this before and suggest 
> MicroLab in Minnesota and CompuTrend in California. Are these
> good places? 

I just built 2 386's for my department 2 weeks ago.  Got motherboards from JDR, 
hard and floppy drives, graphics card/monitor, and memory from 
Hard Drive International, and the rest (casing, power supply, 
drive controller, etc) from Altex.  I would have gotten the motherboard
too from Altex but they did not have the 386 25MHz version at that
time.

> What motherboards are best and what should be avoided? Which
> bioses are best? What about those $40 keyboards (even those
> with the "Alps switches")? What about video cards and moni-
> tors? Are major brands (Orchid, Paradise) better than something
> like "Great Tek VGA"? How would one find drivers for these 
> generic boards? Are Samsung monitors any good? 

I got the cheapest item each from those shops.  Managed to make-do
somehow.  In order to fit MINI 386 motherboard into XT casing, there
is actually 4 (instead of 9) points to stick the motherboard to the casing.
Since these are desktop, 4 is fine with me.  Got XT 200watt powersupply too.
I don't really care much about graphics brand.  Just get 16-bit versions.
Most has drivers for popular software (I didn't even ask them about the
driver at the time, just found out they are there when I open the
graphics card box, I have opened 4 nobrand graphics VGA cards in this 
year, and all of them have drivers).  Same with monitors. 

> Then there are the hard drives. What to buy and what to avoid? 
> Are Kaloks, for instance, any good? 

Everyone is going Conners!

> So if you've built a clone, or know of someone who has, please 
> share your experiences. (If you've had a bad experience, here
> is your chance to vent your spleen!) Mail is welcome, and I'll
> post a summary after a while. And thanks in advance.

Bad experience?  What bad experience?  Just don't panic and do something
stupid.  Call the shop back for help if needed.  Don't low-level format
IDE drives.  Don't leave any screws "somewhere" inside the casing.  
Just email me if you run into trouble.  No gaurrantee I could help, but
I will try (experience: 6 clones built!).

> By the way, the system I have in mind is a 25 MHz 386 on which
> I intend to run Windows 3, so I suppose Bios and video compati-
> bility are major considerations.
> 
Altex said they are finally getting in 25MHz 386 motherboard, you might
want to check their price.

E. Teng Ong (ong@d.cs.okstate.edu) 

From janh@lsid.hp.com Fri Feb 15 10:00:23 1991
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From: Jan Hofland <janh@lsid.hp.com>
Message-Id: <9102151500.AA03284@hplsly.lsid.hp.com>
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
In-Reply-To: article <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu> of Fri, 15 Feb 1991 00:04:23 GMT
Status: OR

re: building your own system

My only suggestion is to carefully price out what it's going to cost you
for components and then compare it to the price for a tested and
warranteed system from someone like Gateway 2000.  It's my understanding
that the savings is minimal and the risk of problems reasonably high.
I'd be inclined to buy a system already put together.  I recently helped a
friend 'upgrade' his XT by adding a 286 motherboard.  Before we were done,
he added a hard drive, a floppy, a power supply, a case, a keyboard, a couple
of disk drive interfaces, and VGA.  I'd guess he's spent more that if he
just bought a put together system.  I know that what he has would be very
difficult to resell.

My 2 cents.

Regards,

Jan Hofland

From coplex!ken@uunet.uu.net Fri Feb 15 08:42:47 1991
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From: coplex!ken@uunet.uu.net (Ken Cornetet)
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.misc
References: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu>
Status: OR

Nur,

I recently put together a 386sx system.  I bought a motherboard and RAM from a 
local place here in Jasper IN. for about the same price the mail order 
companies were asking!  You may want to check some of your local computer
stores.

I am using a Mitsubishi 535 disk drive with a DTC RLL controller for 60 mega-
bytes.  The Mitsubishi workds great (even RLL).  I highly recommend it.

Good luck!


From lairdt@mist.cs.orst.edu Fri Feb 15 01:30:22 1991
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From: Tom Laird <lairdt@mist.cs.orst.edu>
Message-Id: <9102150630.AA22866@mist.CS.ORST.EDU>
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
In-Reply-To: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu>
Organization: Computer Science Department, Oregon State Univ.
Cc: 
Status: OR

I have built over 30 clones for individual customers, and have found a number
of good sources in Calif. for parts.  I live in Calif (though I'm in
school in Oregon at the moment), and I'll give you some info on some of the
places I have liked.

First of all, JDR is a good place to get some parts, however not good if you
want to get an entire system.  Entire systems are a bit on the spendy side,
and can be purchased from other places. JDR is however a good place to
buy some added components such as added serialport i/o chips and such.  Also,
if you intend on re-building your clone in the future they have some very
good individual parts.  The best items they have are their chassis.  I'm running
with one of their super towers ($500 chassis) and I have never found anything
better.

Avoid Jameco.

You should place a call to a place called PC Warehouse.  They are locaed in
Palo Alto & Sunnyvale Calif.  I recently purchased components from my
brother-in-laws system, and they had the best prices around.  They will ship
systemsI believe.  There systems incluse the following: 1.2 5.25" teac,2 serial
1 par,1 game, 1:1 hd/fd controller, AMI bios,101 keyboard, 1year warranty.
Price depends on what you want: 286-12 =$379,386sx =$599,386-25 =$839,
386-25 w/64kcache =$949, 386-33 w/64kcache =$1089, 486-25 w/64kcache=$1799.
All systems do NOT include hard drive or video components, though an IDE
controller is included (the 1:1 hd/fd controller previously mentioned). Dependinon what you want in your system, you may want to get that someplace else.
Prices always are moving around anyway.  

A good way to save some $$ would be to get your haqd drive from Hard Drives
International.  Be sure that you get a controller card for it, unless your
barebones system includes it (like the IDE above).

If you are making a system that will be a file server or needs to be as fast
as possible, do NOT use an IDE controller card.  IDE is SLOW!  While
IDE is the current rage, it is slightly faster than MFM (old format), and slower
than RLL.  If you need speed get an ESDI controller.  Never buy a SCSI drive
for a PC clone. SCSI isn't supported by much.

Stay away from brand names of Kumi, Bullet, Quantum, Hyundai & Nanao.
Try to go with more well known names if you want a good system. ie:a cheap
clone Trident video card works well with an NEC or Sony Multi-sync monitor,
but wouldn't work well with a Kumi,Hyundai or similar cheap monitor.

Get a copy of Computer Shopper and scan it for the base price on the system
you want to have.  Expect to pay more.

Simm memory currently goes for $49 a meg for 1mx1bit simms. Some places
are $59...don't go much higher unless you really want to.

get at least 2 megs, preferably 4megs (4megs is cheaper if you ever decied
you want to upgrade your memory).

Get a fullsized AT chassis, not a baby at chassis.  If you get a tower chassis
make sure it's one of the bigger ones. Smaller chassis (desk or tower) run
much hotter.

Get a 220 watt power supply or larger.

If you have any questions drop my a reply to lairdt@mist.cs.orst.edu

Good luck.e

From smsmith@hpuxa.ircc.ohio-state.edu Thu Feb 14 19:52:45 1991
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From: Stephen M. Smith <smsmith@hpuxa.ircc.ohio-state.edu>
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
In-Reply-To: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu>
Organization: The Ohio State University
Status: OR

A while back I posted a note in answer to someone who wanted
to build their own computer.  It's a little outdated now, but
you might find it helpful:

_______________________________________________________

ravi (skumar@hocus.att.com) writes:

>I am trying to build a 386 IBM compatible machine and I would
>like hear experiences and things to avoid from people who have
>done so. Also recommendations on mail order companies would be
>appreciated. 

Is there any reason that you don't want to buy a complete
system from a mail order company?  You can't really save
much money by building one yourself, and the risks and 
hassle involved might easily outweigh the benefits.  A couple
weeks ago someone on the net said they wanted to build their
own 386 because they wanted to learn more about PC's and to
get the experience; they also pointed out that they realized
they weren't saving that much money, but they wanted to "do
it themselves" to find out more about how systems work.  
That to me is a good reason for wanting to build own's own
computer; but I personally don't think one should do it to
try to save money--especially if you're a novice.

Here's an example of what I mean:

  386-33 motherboard, 128k (25ns) SRAM,      $ 900 (?) 
     AMI BIOS, C & T chip set, quality
     6-layer construction, 1 year parts 
     and labor
  4 MEG RAM (80ns)                           $ 240 (?)
  TEAC 1.2M and 1.44M floppies               $ 130
  Micropolis 161 MEG HD (150,000 MTBFR)      $ 899
  Adaptec 64k caching controller             $ 169
  Sony 1304 (.25, non-interlaced)            $ 849
     *and* Orchid ProDesigner II w/512k
  I/O card (1 parallel/2 ser/1 game)         $  29
  Case, power supply, *good* keyboard        $ 225 (?)
  DOS 4.01                                   $  65
  various shipping charges/cables/misc.      $  50 (?)

  TOTAL:                                     $3556

These are actual or approximate street prices for *quality* 
name brand components.  These are also the same components 
which EPS Technologies puts in its 386-33 system, and that
company sells the bundled package for $3750.  Plus they have
free lifetime tech support (how much money will you spend
just calling around to get all your parts?), and they, like
other companies, have a 60 day money back guarantee and 
1 year parts and labor.

Yes, yes, yes...you can put together a *cheaper* system by
buying *cheaper* components--but remember, you get what you
pay for.  You can spend less money an a less reliable drive
than the Micropolis, but hard drive failure is one of the
major causes of system malfunction.  Or you can save a few 
hundred dollars by buying an interlaced 1024x768 .28 dpi
monitor with a cheap interlacing board, but your graphics
performance will suffer dramatically.  And, in fact, you
can buy a cheap power supply, cheap keyboard, cheap motherboard,
etc., but you will end up with a *cheap* system (and I don't
mean just inexpensive!).  So you might spend ~$2700 for a
similar system, but you will also find mail order companies
that put together the same cheap components and sell them 
for ~$3000, so you're still not saving that much if you go 
that route anyway.  And instead of being able to deal with 
just one company if something goes wrong, you deal with a 
number of manufacturers.

Let's say that you have hard drive problems with your home
built system.  If you call your hard drive supplier he may 
not know what is wrong, so he might refer you to the manufacturer
or to the controller card supplier.  So you call your controller
supplier and *he* says "hmmm...sounds like a hard drive problem
to me."  Okay, okay...so you have an IDE drive with the
controller built in...well, the same thing applies to the monitor
and the video card:

  Monitor retailer: "I'm not sure what's causing that problem;
  sounds like your video card is doing something funny."   

  Video card retailer: "Check with your monitor manufacturer to
  see if you can get the monitor exchanged."

And what happens if one of the components malfunctions in such
a way that it causes damage to another component?  No warranty
is going to cover *that*; but a mail order company's warranty
covers things like that.

Then there's the compatibility to worry about.  A good mail
order company tests its equipment to be sure that it is both
compatible with different operating systems (DOS, Unix, OS/2)
and that each of the components works well with the other
components.  How do you know that you will even be able to
put all the pieces together when they arrive?  I know that
sounds absurd, but just read a few PC Magazine reviews to find
out how some mail order companies had to do some major tinkering
to this!!!  I'm talking about rerouting wires across the mother-
board's slots, and even drilling holes for screws.  There was even
a review on a system that claimed to have a certain number of
free slots on the motherboard, but the case was built in such
a way that they were completely inaccessible unless you took
some tin snips and cut off part of the back of the case!  (And
then there was the person who had a motherboard short out on
the *case* because it wouldn't fit right.)

So I guess a person has to be careful about ordering a cheap,
prepackaged system from a mail order company as well.  IMHO,
this is why a person should buy an FCC Class "B" machine
if at all possible.  It is a hassle for a company to get the
"B" rating, so usually they make sure that it's a *darn good*
package before they submit it for testing because once it pasts
the test, the mail order company cannot (legally) replace any
components in the system.  Many companies (like PC Brand) will 
basically put together the parts that they can get *cheapest*
from the various manufacturers.  So they can offer better 
prices, but they can never advertise specific components since
they change the components so often.

Anyway, I'm not saying that you *shouldn't* build your own
386; but you *should* weigh the options heavily before deciding
to do so.

S. "Stevie" Smith \  +  /
<smsmith@hpuxa.   \+++++/    " #*&<-[89s]*(k#$@-_=//a2$]'+=.(2_&*%>,,@
 ircc.ohio-state. \  +  /      {7%*@,..":27g)-=,#*:.#,/6&1*.4-,l@#9:-)  "
 edu>             \  +  / 
 BTW, WYSInaWYG   \  +  /                              --witty.saying.ARC 

From annmh@blake.u.washington.edu Thu Feb 14 20:00:35 1991
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From: Ann Harrington <annmh@blake.u.washington.edu>
Message-Id: <9102150100.AA17125@blake.u.washington.edu>
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
In-Reply-To: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu>
Organization: University of Washington, Seattle
Cc: 
Status: OR

In article <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu> you write:
>Has anyone else built a clone? Any advice to give me? What
>companies should I avoid? JDR has a good reputation, but 
>their prices are a little high. The cheaper companies are
>relatively unknown. How far can you trust a company called 
>"Bulldog"? A couple friends have done this before and suggest 
>MicroLab in Minnesota and CompuTrend in California. Are these
>good places? 

I built a clone, using all JDR stuff, and it's always worked
fine except for a little memory quirk (occasionally it doesn't
"find" all it's memory on bootup - no major problem, just have
to boot up again).  Their prices weren't all that high when
I built this (three and a half years ago), and only Bulldog
was lower, so I dunno.  I was impressed with their willingness
to give free tech help, though.  Haven't heard of the other
two places you mention.

>What motherboards are best and what should be avoided? Which
>bioses are best? What about those $40 keyboards (even those
>with the "Alps switches")? What about video cards and moni-
>tors? Are major brands (Orchid, Paradise) better than something
>like "Great Tek VGA"? How would one find drivers for these 
>generic boards? Are Samsung monitors any good? 

Things that I know about that you might find useful:  I got JDR's
Hercules compatible board with CGA emulation software, and have
never had trouble with it.  The Hercules compatibility is 
excellent, I even run Windows 3 with it.  Sometimes other 
"Herc compatible" boards aren't really all that compatible, just
wanted you to know that that one is.  But if you're looking for
VGA....well, I haven't gotten around to upgrading yet.  My
keyboard was JDR's lowest-price one, never had a problem.  No
funny switches for it though.  My Samsung monitor is fine, I
would get another given the option.

>Then there are the hard drives. What to buy and what to avoid? 
>Are Kaloks, for instance, any good? 

Can't help you here, I went for a Seagate.

>So if you've built a clone, or know of someone who has, please 
>share your experiences. (If you've had a bad experience, here
>is your chance to vent your spleen!) Mail is welcome, and I'll
>post a summary after a while. And thanks in advance.

One interesting experience to relate is with my floppy drives.
They came with a small black sticker on the front that blended in
with the black plastic of the faceplate.  I peeled it off, and
underneath was the IBM logo embossed into the plastic.  I've
occasionally had read errors with one of these drives, so you
may want to check and see if you're getting something from a
major manufacturer's reject pile (bad), or simply from over-
production (ok) or from an independent manufacturer (nobody 
else's label on the stuff).

Lastly, I will always treasure the double-ended phillips/slot
screwdriver that JDR sent with its parts!  Gawd, that's useful!

-Ann
annmh@blake.u.washington.edu


From bronze!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!think.com!mintaka!ogicse!usenet!yoko!ross Fri Feb 15 16:19:25 EST 1991
Article 59127 of comp.sys.ibm.pc:
Path: bronze!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!think.com!mintaka!ogicse!usenet!yoko!ross
>From: ross@yoko.stat.orst.edu (David Ross)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Keywords: clone,homebuilt,motherboard
Message-ID: <1991Feb15.071535.27615@lynx.CS.ORST.EDU>
Date: 15 Feb 91 07:15:35 GMT
Article-I.D.: lynx.1991Feb15.071535.27615
References: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu> <26936@uflorida.cis.ufl.EDU>
Sender: @lynx.CS.ORST.EDU
Organization: Oregon State University
Lines: 8
Nntp-Posting-Host: stat.orst.edu
Status: OR

In article <26936@uflorida.cis.ufl.EDU> jdb@reef.cis.ufl.edu (Brian K. W. Hook) writes:
>Recommendatin:
>
>Northgate or Fujitsu keyboard (50-120 dollars)
               ^^^^^
Warning: there are 2 Fuji keyboards generally for sale.  The 4700 is quite nice,
the 4800 is just passable.  If you're buying mail order, make sure the person
taking the order hears you correctly.


From bronze!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!src.honeywell.com!msi.umn.edu!cs.umn.edu!ianhogg Fri Feb 15 16:20:28 EST 1991
Article 59129 of comp.sys.ibm.pc:
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
Path: bronze!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!src.honeywell.com!msi.umn.edu!cs.umn.edu!ianhogg
>From: ianhogg@cs.umn.edu (Ian J. Hogg)
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Message-ID: <1991Feb15.184449.21942@cs.umn.edu>
Keywords: clone,homebuilt,motherboard
Organization: University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, CSci dept.
References: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu> <26936@uflorida.cis.ufl.EDU>
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 91 18:44:49 GMT
Lines: 45
Status: OR

In article <26936@uflorida.cis.ufl.EDU> jdb@reef.cis.ufl.edu (Brian K. W. Hook) writes:
> [ deleted things about component recommendations, ]
>Recommendatin:
>
>386-33 Micronics MB w/ 8MB and 32k cache (1800 total mail order)
>Logix 1MB ET4000 based board (189 dollars mail order from Logix)
>Samsung Syncmaster .28 monitor (~430 dollars)
>Northgate or Fujitsu keyboard (50-120 dollars)
>Seagate ST1144 (?) 20ms 125MB IDE (around 500 mail order)
>TEAC floppy (65 mail order)
>Logitech Mouseman or MS Mouse (~80 dollars)
>
>You total it....I don't have a calculator handy.

  I total it and I get about $3035 without the mouse.  I'm picking up a new 
system today that is configured as follows:

	PC Express 386-33mhz system			2530
          Wedge Motherboard w/64k cache
          4MB ram
          1.2MB and 1.4 MB floppies (TEAC)
          Panasync 1381c monitor
          DOS 4.1 installed
          100 MB IDE drive
          Focus 16 bit SVGA with 1MB

       I put together the following upgrades:
         Diamond SpeedStar 1MB SVGA                        79
         Seagate ST1144A disc drive                        40
         Mini Tower case                                   39

      total price:                                       2688

If you added a second floppy to your recommedation we'd have about a $400
price difference with the major discrepancy being 4Mb of RAM.  Can I get
4 MB ram for less than $400? 

>
>Brian


-- 
===============================================================================
Ian Hogg						ianhogg@cs.umn.edu
                                                        (612) 225-1401


From bronze!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!samsung!emory!ogicse!usenet!mist.CS.ORST.EDU!lairdt Fri Feb 15 16:20:55 EST 1991
Article 59130 of comp.sys.ibm.pc:
Path: bronze!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!samsung!emory!ogicse!usenet!mist.CS.ORST.EDU!lairdt
>From: lairdt@mist.CS.ORST.EDU (Tom Laird)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Keywords: clone,homebuilt,motherboard
Message-ID: <1991Feb15.201920.13743@lynx.CS.ORST.EDU>
Date: 15 Feb 91 20:19:20 GMT
References: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu> <26936@uflorida.cis.ufl.EDU> <1991Feb15.184449.21942@cs.umn.edu>
Sender: @lynx.CS.ORST.EDU
Organization: Computer Science Department, Oregon State Univ.
Lines: 31
Nntp-Posting-Host: mist.cs.orst.edu
Status: OR

In article <1991Feb15.184449.21942@cs.umn.edu> ianhogg@cs.umn.edu (Ian J. Hogg) writes:
> [Stuff deleted]
>
>  I total it and I get about $3035 without the mouse.  I'm picking up a new 
>system today that is configured as follows:
>
>	PC Express 386-33mhz system			2530
>          Wedge Motherboard w/64k cache
>          4MB ram
>          1.2MB and 1.4 MB floppies (TEAC)
>          Panasync 1381c monitor
>          DOS 4.1 installed
>          100 MB IDE drive
>          Focus 16 bit SVGA with 1MB
>
>       I put together the following upgrades:
>         Diamond SpeedStar 1MB SVGA                        79
>         Seagate ST1144A disc drive                        40
>         Mini Tower case                                   39
>
>      total price:                                       2688
>
>If you added a second floppy to your recommedation we'd have about a $400
>price difference with the major discrepancy being 4Mb of RAM.  Can I get
>4 MB ram for less than $400? 

First of all I'd get a different chassis.  The smaller chassis run hotter
and are a big pain to upgrade at any point - not enough space.
I also would avoid an IDE drive, especially a Seagate. IDE drives are SLOW
and turn out about 500-600k per second throughput - a bad idea to hook up
such a slow drive to a fast system.


From ntaib@ucs.indiana.edu Sat Feb 16 13:34:01 1991
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From: ntaib@ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib)
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: clone
Status: OR

From:	AQUA::WINS%"wayne@teemc.TMC.MI.ORG" 16-FEB-1991 04:07:19.53
To:	NTAIB
CC:	
Subj:	Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?

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To: NTAIB@AQUA.UCS.INDIANA.EDU
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
In-Reply-To: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu>
Organization: TMC & Associates, Troy, MI
Cc: 
Message-Id: <9102151119.AA04016@teemc.TMC.MI.ORG>
Date: 15 Feb 91 11:19:24 EST (Fri)
From: wayne@teemc.TMC.MI.ORG (Michael R. Wayne)

In article <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu> you write:
>I am about to start construction on a clone, and would 
>like some advice about where to begin. First of all, there
>are something like 50 ads in Computer Shopper for compo-
>nents, but precious little advice about what to buy. 
>

	Keyboard:  Northgate.  Period.  You use the kb more then anything
else, buy the best.
	Motherboard:  I'm REAL happy w/ my cache computers 25 MHz 386
w/ 32K cache.  Byte reviewed MB's in late 89 andrated cache the best
for the $$.  I can't disagree.  Runs Unix, Dos (3.3 & 4.0), windows,
OS/2, all w/ no probs.  Lets you run the bus at 12.5 MHz also, which
helps.  Uses 16 SIMMs (256K or 1MB).
	Drives: I use a 660 MB SCSI which might be a bit big for you.
Controller is Adaptec 1542A, the 1542B is out, similar board, a bit
smaller.  If you bet one BUY THE KIT since it includes all the drivers you
will need.  The bare board costs only a bit less and it's a real pain
to buy drivers later (and expensive).
	Floppies, buy a brand that you have heard of that is inexpensive. 
I think I have NEC and Toshiba (3.5" and 5").
	You said windows.  Buy a Orchid Pro-Desigener II w/ 1MB for < $300.
It'll do 1024x768x256.  Looks real nice and it's FAST.
	I like my Sony 1304 monitor.  Does 1024x768 in NON-interlaced mode.
It's costly but I can't work on an interlaced tube for > 30 min w/o getting
a headache.
	Feel free to write back, I'll answer questions but I may be a
bit slow...

/\/\ \/\/

-- 
Michael R. Wayne      ---     TMC & Associates      --- wayne@teemc.tmc.mi.org
         Operator of the only 240 Horsepower UNIX machine in Michigan 

From ESR%SLACVM.BITNET@forsythe.stanford.edu Fri Feb 15 17:46:35 1991
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From: "Ed Russell"                                   <ESR%SLACVM.BITNET@forsythe.stanford.edu>
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject:  Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Status: OR

You didn't say anything in your post about why you want to "roll your own".
If your reason is cost, don't.  You won't save much, if anything, and the
hassle won't be worth it.  You should also consider what recourse you have
if the components don't work together.  One of the advantages of buying
from one of the clone shops is that they will assemble the thing, make sure
it works, do the burn-in, and be available for problems.

Here in Silicon Valley there are a couple of companies that help you build
your own (or repair it).  They sell components and help you assemble them.
You might investigate something like that in your area.

I have not gone through the exercise of building my own although I have
changed a few components on occasion.  However, from my own experience and
what I have seen from others I would suggest the following:
o Make sure your power supply is good quality, well filtered, etc.
o Get a brand name BIOS and chip set.
o Don't get cheapo brand hard disks.  Be careful even with brand name ones.
  Sometimes certain models have problems even if most from that company
  are good.  (For example, I have had, and seen, poor longevity from Seagate
  ST-4096.  Other companies may have similar models.)
o Do your homework in magazines like PC Magazine, Byte, etc.

From SNOW@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu Sat Feb 16 19:51:27 1991
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Date: Sat, 16 Feb 1991 19:51 EST
From: SNOW@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu
Subject: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Message-Id: <50117891EC005783@DRYCAS.CLUB.CC.CMU.EDU>
X-Vms-To: IN%"ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu"
Status: OR

Stick with TEAC floppy drives.  Sony may make good 3.5" floppies, but their
3.5" drives won't stand up to abuse (I know this from REPEATED experience.)
TEAC 1.2MB drives can successfully, and reliably, read and write 360K disks.
I've never had to replace a TEAC drive (I've bought 9) except for the two
I lost due to a lightning strike (replaced with the same model.)

Don't waste your money on a UPS.  Make sure your computer is covered by
your insurance company.  And keep all your receipts for all purchases!
There's no need to protect a machine which will be obsolete in a few years
anyway.  Better to hope for a catastrophic loss, and replacement with new
hardware.

Unless you have a special room with well-controlled lighting, try to get a
monitor with a Sony Trinitron tube.  The Seiko CM1450 sounds good, but I
haven't actually used one (I use a Zenith FTM-1490, which is absolutely
flat, but it only does 640x480.)  A big advantage of Trinitron monitors
is the excellent dot pitch.  Definitely stick with 1024x768 non-interlaced.
Think of the people who bought EGA cards and EGA displays, versus the
people who bought EGA cards and multisync displays.  The multisync'ers
were ready for VGA.  You'll be ready for XGA, or whatever.

Along the same lines, you may as well get a cheap VGA card.  Make sure it
has the feature connector.  You may find a great deal on an 8514/A or some
other VGA enhancement.

You may as well get a cheap hard disk.  After you run out of space, you'll
have to replace it anyway.  If you're getting a SCSI disk, go for quality.
You can keep a SCSI disk forever, and it has the best chance of surviving
the (inevitable) move to non-AT-compatible hardware.

Jameco has decent (not great) prices on motherboards.  They have a decent
selection of I/O cards, as well.  Try to get a motherboard which accepts
4MB SIPPs or SIMMs.  They're the most expensive kind of memory right now,
but they'll still work when you replace your motherboard with a 100MHz 80586
board which only takes 4MB SIPPs or 16MB SIPPs.  Because I stayed away from
64K DRAMs and went with (then expensive) 256K DRAMs, I didn't have to buy
any memory when I upgraded to a 386sx.

This has gotten kind of long.  I guess what I'm trying to say is, this stuff
will all be obsolete soon.  Make sure the heavy things like disks and monitors
can survive the transition.  Cheap board-level stuff like motherboards and
expansion cards can be sacrificed.  Today's state-of-the-art is tomorrow's
least common denominator.

-ken

From mra%srchtec.UUCP@mathcs.emory.edu Mon Feb 18 11:03:04 1991
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Date: Sun, 17 Feb 91 21:17 EST
From: mra%searchtech.com@mathcs.emory.edu (Michael Almond)
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
In-Reply-To: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu>
Organization: search technology, inc.
Cc: 
Status: OR

In article <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu> you write:
>I am about to start construction on a clone, and would 
>like some advice about where to begin. First of all, there
>are something like 50 ads in Computer Shopper for compo-
>nents, but precious little advice about what to buy. 
>
>Has anyone else built a clone? Any advice to give me? What
>companies should I avoid? JDR has a good reputation, but 
>their prices are a little high. The cheaper companies are
>relatively unknown. How far can you trust a company called 
>"Bulldog"? A couple friends have done this before and suggest 
>MicroLab in Minnesota and CompuTrend in California. Are these
>good places? 

"Bulldog" is a local company here is Atlanta.  They use to be a
setup similar to "Soft Warehouse".  About a year ago they went totally
to mail order.  They have a really good reputation though.  If you want
to know more about the company, let me know.

>What motherboards are best and what should be avoided? Which
>bioses are best? What about those $40 keyboards (even those
>with the "Alps switches")? What about video cards and moni-
>tors? Are major brands (Orchid, Paradise) better than something
>like "Great Tek VGA"? How would one find drivers for these 
>generic boards? Are Samsung monitors any good? 

Make sure you get a board that at least has the AMI Bios.  If you can,
get an AMI board also.  Be sure it uses the Chips and Technologies chipset.

>Then there are the hard drives. What to buy and what to avoid? 
>Are Kaloks, for instance, any good? 

Conner hard drives are the best.  They are quiet and fast and competitively
priced.  NCR uses them in the PC's and Tower systems.  DEC usses them in
their RISC DECstations.

>So if you've built a clone, or know of someone who has, please 
>share your experiences. (If you've had a bad experience, here
>is your chance to vent your spleen!) Mail is welcome, and I'll
>post a summary after a while. And thanks in advance.

I have helped two people here build clones and am considering building
one for my own use.

>By the way, the system I have in mind is a 25 MHz 386 on which
>I intend to run Windows 3, so I suppose Bios and video compati-
>bility are major considerations.

Trident SVGA based boards are the best.  "Trident" is a chipset, not a
board manufacturer.
-- 
Michael R. Almond (Georgia Tech Alumnus)           mra@srchtec.uucp (registered)
search technology, inc.				             mra@searchtech.com
4725 peachtree corners cir., suite 200		       emory!stiatl!srchtec!mra
norcross, georgia 30092					 (404) 441-1457 (office)
[search]: Systems Engineering Approaches to Research and Development

From <@po3.andrew.cmu.edu:dd2x+@andrew.cmu.edu> Mon Feb 18 11:48:26 1991
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Date: Mon, 18 Feb 91 11:47:33 -0500 (EST)
From: David Eugene Dwiggins <dd2x+@andrew.cmu.edu>
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Nur Iskandar Taib)
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Status: OR

Well then, you know what an IDE drive is.  It is either a SCSI, RLL, MFM,
or whatever the manufacturer chooses it to be.  Essentially it is one
of the above drive types with the controller built in.  Makes it
cheaper/faster.  The "IDE" interface is basically like a parallel port with
some extra goodies.
David

From poffen@sj.ate.slb.com Tue Feb 19 09:29:55 1991
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From: poffen@sj.ate.slb.com (Russ Poffenberger)
Message-Id: <9102151958.AA22843@ASC.SLB.COM>
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
X-Vms-To: silver.ucs.indiana.edu::ntaib
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Status: OR

Cc: 

In article <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu> you write:
>I am about to start construction on a clone, and would 
>like some advice about where to begin. First of all, there
>are something like 50 ads in Computer Shopper for compo-
>nents, but precious little advice about what to buy. 
>
>Has anyone else built a clone? Any advice to give me? What
>companies should I avoid? JDR has a good reputation, but 
>their prices are a little high. The cheaper companies are
>relatively unknown. How far can you trust a company called 
>"Bulldog"? A couple friends have done this before and suggest 
>MicroLab in Minnesota and CompuTrend in California. Are these
>good places? 
>

I made my clone from pieces from several different places.

1.) Got a 386/25 motherboard from Adtech (here in San Jose). It is an ECS
motherboard, not bad. It has AMI BIOS.

2.) Got an Adaptec SCSI controller and drive from another local company, I
forget the name.

3.) Got a Video-7 Fastwrite VGA and Panasonic monitor from yet another local
company (Access Computer Technology)

4.) Got an aux 2 floppy controller (so I could have 4 floppies) from JDR.

I have had no problems with this. As you notice, I tend to buy from local
companies. Might cost a little more, but unless you are ABSILUTELY sure of what
you want, and that it will work together with your other stuff, I recommend it.

It is so much easier to go back and solve problems or return stuff face to
face rather than over the phone or through mail.

My impressions were..

Adtech knew a lot about motherboards, but not as much about peripherals,
especially SCSI.

The company I got the SCSI system from didn't know a WHOLE lot about it, but I
was already pretty sure that it was what I wanted and that it would work. Just
to make sure, I had them write on the invoice that I could return it (in the
same condition) if it didn't work.

JDR seems to be pretty good about their boards. They have a 30 day no question
return policy. They are the only ones (out of 4 or 5) who understood that I
wanted to add a third floppy, and knew that most systems need a controller
with BIOS on board to recognize it. Other dealers said "Yeah, ours will work",
but it didn't, or said "Impossible.".

If you want to buy from a single place, I would recommend JDR. They have been
around a long time, know what they are talking about, and have good warranty
and return policies.

Good luck!

Russ Poffenberger               DOMAIN: poffen@sj.ate.slb.com
Schlumberger Technologies       UUCP:   {uunet,decwrl,amdahl}!sjsca4!poffen
1601 Technology Drive		CIS:	72401,276
San Jose, Ca. 95110             (408)437-5254

From rutgers!ames!lll-winken!rtech!ingres.com!edg@iuvax.cs.indiana.edu Wed Feb 20 19:33:51 1991
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From: rutgers!ames!ingres.com!edg@iuvax.cs.indiana.edu (Ed Goldman)
Message-Id: <9102202322.AA25806@squid.ingres.com>
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: building a clone: good stuff vs. trash?
Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc
In-Reply-To: <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu>
Organization: Ask Computer Systems Inc., Ingres Division, Alameda CA 94501
Cc: 
Status: OR

In article <1991Feb15.000423.26009@bronze.ucs.indiana.edu> you write:
>
>What motherboards are best and what should be avoided? Which
>bioses are best? 

Well, I'm shopping around for a clone and I've reached the following opinion
based on what I've heard or seen:

Best motherboards to get are either Mylex or Omnitel.  They're both well-
constructed (8-layer) and you can put up to 32MB of mem on the motherboard.
I think they both use Phoenix BIOS and Omnitel will give you lifetime upgrades
for the BIOS.  AMI is the other BIOS, don't know much about it other than it
seems to be on a lot of boards.  Phoenix's has been in the BIOS business
longer, and I've been happy with some of thier other products too.

Oh, also, I think the Mylex board's cache can be increased above 64k, but
Omnitel is fixed at 64k.

All-in-all it's probably a wash between the 2 boards -- I'll probably get
a clpone with the Omnitel.

-edg-

From SGREEN@umiami.ir.miami.edu Sun Feb 24 15:54:00 1991
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Date: Sun, 24 Feb 91 15:51 EST
From: "STEVEN GREEN, DEPT. BIOLOGY (305)284-4272" <SGREEN@umiami.ir.miami.edu>
Subject: Reply to news posting
To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Message-Id: <B48810A4A5CF602542@umiami.IR.Miami.EDU>
X-Envelope-To: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
X-Vms-To: IN%"ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu"
X-Vms-Cc: SGREEN
Status: OR

>I'd like to avoid on my new machine. Would a faster
>processor work better than fast video?
>
Go for the faster video -Orchid ProDesigner II with 1 Mb video ram.  I've got
both kinds of systems and this is definitely faster at graphics screens.  If
the SX is a -20 rather than a -16, try to get one with memory-caching also. 
Even a small cache makes a big difference in throughput. Please summarize and
post replies if you get a few. - Thanx, Steve






--
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Iskandar Taib                        | The only thing worse than Peach ala
Internet: NTAIB@AQUA.UCS.INDIANA.EDU |    Frog is Frog ala Peach
Bitnet:   NTAIB@IUBACS               !
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