[net.travel] "Real" Mexico

riddle@ut-sally.UUCP (Prentiss Riddle) (03/07/85)

The original question:

>> A friend of mine and I are contemplating taking a vacation to Mexico this
>> May.  We'll have about two weeks and a reasonable but hardly lavish budget.
>> We're still at the point where we're trying to decide where to go, and I
>> wonder whether anyone on Usenet might have suggestions.
>> 
>> Please note that we are NOT going to Mexico in order to rub elbows with
>> other North American tourists or pretend that we're in Palm Springs: we like
>> the idea of really seeing Mexico and being around Mexicans.  We're looking
>> for relatively untouristy places with natural beauty, good food,
>> archeological sites, surviving folk arts and/or special character.  Luxury
>> seaside resorts are out of the question.
>> 
>> We plan on traveling by available local transportation (i.e., we won't
>> bring a car).  We're just fussy enough that we prefer our hotels to have hot
>> water at least a few hours a day and no bedbugs, but we'd walk a mile to
>> avoid a Holiday Inn clone.  One of us speaks Spanish.
>> 
>> As an example of the kind of place we're looking for, I once spent a very
>> enjoyable week in Oaxaca and its environs.  True, there were some tourists
>> around, but not so many that place was swamped.  We may go back to Oaxaca,
>> but we're also considering trying something new.

Many thanks to all of those who answered:

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I have a friend who used to run a Spanish language summer school in
Guanajuato, Guanajuato (so nice they named it twice) and he loved the
place.  He hates winter and Texas summer but he liked the Guanajuato
weather all year long because it's springlike (well, maybe like a Colorado
late spring).  It's in the mountains, well north of Mexico City, about the
latitude of Guadalajara.

I have another acquaintance who retired thanks to a bit of luck with stocks
splitting and who admits to some civilized vices: a comfortable apartment,
good food prepared for him, a bit too much Cognac, Cuban cigars, ... . He
lives in Guanajuato and claims to have trouble spending $400 a month.

From the pictures I've seen, it's an old world town with twisty streets
and interesting architecture. It looks like it would be easily accessible
via public transportation through Laredo, Monterrey, and San Luis Potosi.

A word of caution from my friend: "Stay well away from the mummies." They
might sound like they'd be of archeological interest, but they're quite
recent and are the result of a barbaric practice of the keepers of the
churchyards who exhume their guests when their descendents can no longer
pay to keep them there.

			-- John Respess  respess@ut-ngp.UUCP
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My favorite place in Mexico as a kid was Guanajuato.  It's an artist colony
(NOT USA artists) near DF.  It's (as I recall) stunningly beautiful, with
an interesting street system (they run, mostly, under the city).  Enjoy.

			-- Bob Knight  unmvax!nmtvax!unm-cvax.knight
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I know what you mean about Americanized resorts.  If you're really
interested in archeological stuff and in mingling with the locals, I have
an idea: Start at the Chicheniza and Toulum area on the Yucatan by flying
into either Cancun or Cozumel.  They are fascinating if you've never been
there before - plus the surrounding area is very nice.  If you're into
SCUBA diving, or if you'd like to learn, Cozumel is a must.  What you might
do after hitting these spots is to either rent a car and drive, or take the
bus or train (if you've ever spent much time on a Mexican bus or train
you'll know why I suggest driving) down the coast to Belize.  You see a lot
of interesting parts of Mexico, and Belize is pretty nice, too.

I don't know any city names, but in talking with some Mexicans, many tell
me that their favorite vacation spots are in the state southeast of Oaxaca,
near Guatemala - an area not normally visited by Americans.

			-- Rick Kiessig  seismo!nsc!idi!kiessig
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I went to a place called Puerto something, (Rocky Point), 60 miles south of
the border of Arizona. I was with a UCLA extension class studying
tidepools. The area is great for that because it's at the uppermost part of
the Gulf of California so there are lots of tides and loads of weird things
under every rock. Read Steinbeck's "Voyage to the Sea of Cortez".

There were some hotels around and lots of good shrimp and seafood. We slept
on the beach and, the bad news, everybody got robbed at least once. UCLA
forgot to mention that feature. There weren't any tourists until the Easter
weekend when all the dune vehiclers arrived.

			-- Susan L. Gerhart gerhart%wang-inst.csnet
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One of the things I wanted to do was to take the train from El Paso thru
the mountains over to the west coast.  Course, then again, maybe it was
from Del Rio.  Anyway, if you can get more information, I think you may
find that very "enlightening."

			-- Lisa  ihnp4!druny!lizard

[Ah, yes, that's been on my list for years: the train trip through the
"Can~ones de Cobre," Copper Canyon, is supposed to be one of the most
spectacular in the world.  If I find the details, I'll post them later.]
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My parents just got back from a Mexican vacation, which they enjoyed very
much.  They stayed at a place called "Posada del Capitan LaFite".  It was
near Cancun, and didn't have a telephone (messages were telexed from
someplace in Arizona, US number 800-538-6802).  They spent their time doing
a lot of nothing, visiting ruins, beaching, and generally relaxing.

My parents aren't the types who go in for tourist stuff (they went
backpacking on Isle Royale in Lake Superior for their 20th anniversary) so
I think that their criteria are probably pretty close to yours.

Oh, my dad has only a little Spanish, and even that's Castillian from high
school 30 years ago.

			-- Ariel (my parents went to the Incan ruins and all
			   I got was this lousy mummified heart) Shattan
			   ..!tektronix!orca!ariels
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But Prentiss, there are Mexican tourists.

I know. They all take their vacations after Christmas, and they all go to
Oaxaca :-)

The Palenque ruins are really nice. They are small compared to some of the
other buildings, but they are from the classic period and have many unique
refinements.  The city of Palenque wasn't of much interest, but maybe we
didn't look hard enough.

The Chiapas mountains were really spectacular. They are covered with a true
rain forest. We road with a guy we met to some falls called Agua Azul. I
think the drive was more scenic than the falls themselves. The trip from
San Cristobal (I believe) to Palenque is supposed to be very beautiful. The
part we drove (Palenque to Agua Azul) certainly was. It RAINS ALL THE TIME
in Chiapas including Palenque. We had freak weather (so did Austin); It was
cold and rainy rather than hot humid and rainy.

We enjoyed Merida and the Yucatan in general when we went in 1979.  The
problem (with the Yucatan meeting your criteria) is that outside of Merida,
there is no Mexican middle class. There are mostly tourists and Indians. I
would suggest basing in Merida, but spending one night at the Mayaland
Hotel in Chichen Itza. It's expensive, but all meals are included and the
people there are very nice.  There is not much to do in Chichen Itza but
eat, swim in the pool, and explore the ruins. The same statements apply
pretty much to Uxmal.  The Mexican Caribbean is very beautiful, but Cancun
is expensive and artificial.

				-- James Johnson  ut-ngp!jjhnsn
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--- Prentiss Riddle ("Aprendiz de todo, maestro de nada.")
--- {ihnp4,harvard,seismo,gatech,ctvax}!ut-sally!riddle
--- riddle@ut-sally.UUCP, riddle@ut-sally.ARPA, riddle%zotz@ut-sally