[trial.rec.metalworking] need info on historic locks

daveu@sco.COM (Dave Uebele) (07/10/90)

I am planning to build a small presentation case for a civil war era revolver
(Colt Navy .36 1861 model if you are interested) and I was hoping to install
a lock into the case. I would like the case to "fit" into the same era.
Does anyone know what types of locks were available or in use during this
time period or the names of any suppliers that still sell old fashioned
style locks?

If there are not any suppliers, I am thinking of making making my own lock
mechanism.  When was the Yale pin tumbler lock invented? I can probably
fabricate a simple latch mechanism.

Any other tips for construction methods used during this time period? The box
and revolver may be used for living history events so I would like it to
be historicly accurate in appearance.
thanks
-- 
Dave Uebele	{ucbvax!ucscc | uunet | sun}!sco!daveu

jones@pyrite.cs.uiowa.edu (Douglas W. Jones,201H MLH,3193350740,3193382879) (07/10/90)

From article <7059@scolex.sco.COM>, by daveu@sco.COM (Dave Uebele):
> 
> I am planning to build a small presentation case for a civil war era revolver ...
> Does anyone know what types of locks were available or in use during this
> time period ...
>

I've got the lock you want, but I'm keeping it.  The pin-tumbler idea dates back to ancient
Egypt, but it wasn't common on padlocks in the 1860's.  The most common padlocks of that
era were warded locks (where the wards prevent the key from turning unless it has slots
matching the shapes of the wards).  The cheepest of todays Master padlocks are crude warded
locks, and you can find others at many antique shows.

My favorite old locks from the 19th century are the lever action locks.  These are round,
usually three inches in diameter and 3/4 inch thick brass, with a slot in one edge.  The hasp
is a bar that fits in this slot, notched in the side so when it's pushed radially in, a closed
hole about 1/2 inch diameter passes through the edge of the lock.  When you unlock the lock,
the hasp pops out (pushed by a spring), allowing you to slide it off whatever you locked.

The key is a flat blace with steps cut across its working end.  You stick the working end into
the keyhole (a slot) in the bottom of the lock, and each step pushes on a lever.  If each lever
is pushed the right distance, a row of notches in the sides of the levers are aligned, and the
hasp can open.

I got my lock without a key, chiseled the thing open (it was riveted shut), made a key, and put
it back together.  The old brass was malliable enough that I managed to do this without
damaging the rivet heads, and the lock is now quite servicable and looks as good as new!

					Doug Jones
					jones@herky.cs.uiowa.edu