[trial.rec.metalworking] Lead Info Wanted.

knodel@dragon.cis.ohio-state.edu (Jeff Knodel) (04/05/91)

While this may not be a 'true' metalworking subject, lead is a metal, so....

I play many Role Playing and War games, and thereby use many lead miniatures.
I have created many of my own, though through extreemly inefficient ways.
(the details are entirely too embarassing B) 

I am interested in getting some information on the actual casting of
lead miniatures, like how and where to buy a kit (if such exist) or 
the essentials of creating one...

Thanks

--
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
The socio-economic implications of this are mind boggeling. - creator
knodel@cis.ohio-state.edu (.and.all.that.b.s)  operator@cis.ohio-state.edu

okunewck@psuvax1.cs.psu.edu (Phil OKunewick) (04/06/91)

knodel@dragon.cis.ohio-state.edu (Jeff Knodel) writes:
>
>While this may not be a 'true' metalworking subject, lead is a metal, so....

   (If this ain't true metalworking, I don't know what is.)

>I am interested in getting some information on the actual casting of
>lead miniatures, like how and where to buy a kit (if such exist) or 
>the essentials of creating one...

   Look into "Wax Replacement".  Check your local library for help.

   You carve the figure out of wax, then give it a healthy coating of
plaster or clay (1/4" thick or as needed) and allow a hole for
filling/draining.  Let it dry _completely_, then heat the thing in an
oven to melt/burn the wax out; give it plenty of time to get done.

   Next, with the now-hollow mold heated to around 400 degrees, set it
in a bed of sand to keep it in an ideal pouring position.  (Heating
the bed of sand is acceptable.)  Pour molten lead into the hot mold -
if you pour lead into a cold mold, the resulting casting will not make
you happy.

   Let it cool, remove the plaster, and you'll find a sloppy mess that
tries to resemble your desired figure.  Figure out a better way to do
things (larger features on this leg; filling hole in a different spot,
hotter mold, etc) and try again.  In other words, don't waste a lot of
time putting detail on your first couple attempts, although you might
try small areas of fine detail to see how well it works.  You should
be able to reproduce fingerprints left in the wax figure.

   For a source of lead - take a walk along the road.  Wheel Balance
Weights are everywhere, especially near busy intersections.  These are
a lead alloy - somewhat harder than pure lead, and better for your
purposes.

   Cautions:
   Air or water bubbles explode when heated - make sure your plaster
mixture is smooth and thoroughly dry.  I prefer to bake it at 180
degrees for a couple hours before I run it up to 400.
   Try not to breathe the lead fumes.  It ain't real healthy.  Do it
outside, or at least with the stove exhaust fan running.
   Oh, and since you play DND - you get 2 hit points of damage every
time you try to handle the hot stuff without heavy gloves.  (I'll bet
you never thought hit points could hurt so bad.)  I prefer leather
armor on my hands - it's a lot more flexible than potholders.

donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen) (04/06/91)

	You might want to look into lost was casting.  It is used in jewelry
casting and model making.  THe process starts by making a wax master then
covering the master with plaster.  the necessary sprues and vents are part
of the master.  The master is melted out of the plaster and hot lead 
poured in.  When the metal cools, the plaster is broken away.

	The time life books "creative famuly Workshop" had a good article
on lost wax.  The books are available in libraries.  Also look over the
jewelery section.  Lost wax is easy and you can have very detailed masters.
For home use, it is usually a one shot deal, 1 master = 1 finished.  There
are ways to make a master mold to generate many wax masters.

	DonB