[net.travel] Suggestions for Istanbul, Greece, and Bulgaria

macrakis@harvard.UUCP (Stavros Macrakis) (02/27/86)

I've spent a few days in Bulgaria, almost a month in Istanbul (and two
in Turkey) and some years in Greece.  Here are some suggestions.

  Copyright 1985 S. Macrakis  -- Usenet distribution authorized.

= Istanbul =

Istanbul is fascinating.  I hope you plan to spend at least a week.
Istanbul was the capital of the Roman Empire longer than Rome before
it became the capital of the Ottoman Empire (1453-1908/20).  Most of
the Roman remains are either underground or converted.  It is
essential to have a good serious guide.  I strongly recommend the
excellent Blue Guide (NOT the French Guide Bleu, the English Blue
Guide) to Istanbul, which was written by two English teachers who
lived in Istanbul for many years.  I --urge-- you to order this
through your local bookstore or mail-order place well in advance of
leaving: book orders can take a long time.  It is distributed in this
country, so you don't need to worry about importation etc.  Another
very good guide -- covering all of Turkey -- is by Tom Brosnahan,
published by Lonely Planet; Brosnahan was studying Ottoman history and
lived in Turkey for a couple of years.  The Companion Guide to Turkey
is less detailed and more impressionistic than either of these, but
good in its way.

The reason it is so important to have a good guide is that much of the
fascination of Istanbul comes in the details that only become
meaningful with explication; most things are not labelled even in
Turkish and I would never rely on local guides.  If you read Arabic
and Ottoman Turkish, that helps, since all the inscriptions are in
those languages....

I recommend that you take a hotel in the old city near Aghia Sophia
(Ayasofya Camii), not in the European area (where the Hilton, ...
are).  You won't find any luxury hotels in the old city, but there
are some good ones.  Of course, if American standards of plumbing
and carpeting are important, you should go to the Hilton or whatever.

The other alternative for hotels, if you prefer to stay outside the
city itself, is further north up the Bosporus, in the direction of
Tarabya.  At Tarabya itself is `the' luxury hotel, which could be
very nice (yes, it's modern and all that, but at that point you're
there for the `resort' aspect).  Also at Tarabya and surrounding
towns are the best restaurants.  I particularly like the Garaj
(yes, it means `garage') Lokantasi (restaurant).  Order a selection
of seafood appetizers.  You could stop there (just have a lot) or
go on to a main course.  They speak foreign languages and take
credit cards.  Expensive by Turkish standards, not by ours.  There are
also several good fish restaurants in the Kum Kapi section of town,
just southwest of the historic center.

One problem with staying outside the old city is that traffic is
horrid.  From Galata (the European section) to the old city is only
a mile or so, but a bus or cab or car can take 1/2 hour!  Better to
be in a section of the city where you can walk everywhere.

Oh yes-- language.  Turkish is unrelated to any European language
(well, extremely distantly to Hungarian and Finnish).  However, it is
a fairly simple and logical language.  Foreign languages are spoken in
shops, tourist sites, ..., but it's best to know a few words.  Beyond
the phrases in your guidebook, you could always try GL Lewis' Teach
Yourself Turkish, but I'm probably just projecting my own enthusiasms.

Another hint.  Marlboro cigarettes are widely appreciated in Turkey
(Camels won't cut it).  When I was there, they were worth something
like $1.50 a pack on the street.  Although rumor has it that they're
cheaper now, it can't hurt to get a couple of cartons at the Greek
duty-free shop at 33c/pack -- even if you're not a smoker (I'm not).
Use them as tips where you'd use $1-2 here (porters, guides, building
caretakers, ...); to be friendly, offer a smoke.  I remember I tipped
the porter at my hotel two or three packs because he'd walked across
town to pick up some paperwork for me, and he asked his boss if he
could keep it, and wasn't it too much....

= Greece =

Even though you have friends there, I would suggest you pick up a good
map and guide.  This will help you get some perspective on what you're
seeing and help you not to miss things that might seem `the same old
stuff' to your friends.

First, let me strongly recommend the Michelin Map to Greece.  It is
far better than most maps you get in Greece.  You should also get the
standard packet from the National Tourist Organization in NYC.
Perhaps the most useful thing there is their pamphlet-map which
identifies most historic/cultural sites with little pictograms (a
little castle for medieval site, etc.).

As for guides, I am split between the American Express and the
Michelin (available only in French, perhaps?).  Don't let the
sponsorship of the Amex guide put you off -- it's nothing like their
magazine (Travel & Leisure or whatever).  It's a very intelligent but
compact pocket-size guide which includes both information on places to
visit and practical information on hotels and restaurants (unlike the
Michelin).  If you would like to have a `reference book' along with
you, to get details on particular sites (mostly for classical things),
get the Blue Guide.  It's stodgy and hard to use for deciding where to
go, but useful once you're there.

Much more impressionistic are the Companion Guides.  I find the
Companion Guide to the Greek Islands especially good, and it is strong
where the other guides are weak: in giving you a sense of recent
history, how things have changed over the years, the character of each
island.

English is very widely spoken in Greece.  Although most signs are
written in both Greek and Roman characters, do learn the Greek
characters and pronunciation for place-names (note also that the
transliteration used in your guidebook may not be the same as the one
on the signs).

= Bulgaria =

Bulgaria is the most Stalinist Eastern European country.  Take their
rules fairly seriously.  Get a Tourist, not a Transit Visa (this means
you must get it in advance, I believe); Tourist visa gives you a
better rate of exchange (!) and less pressure to travel too quickly.
I'm not too fond of the Bulgarian cities; the countryside can be very
pleasant; I haven't been to the coast-- I think it may be heavily
package-tour-hotels.  The monasteries can be beautiful but are often
very recent (19th, 20th c) and heavily `restored'.

Russian is widely studied, English isn't.

I don't know of any good travel guides for Bulgaria.  I used the Nagel,
which was its usual Nagelish self -- heavy, pedantic, overpriced, ....
Perhaps Let's Go covers Bulgaria.  I systematically avoid Fodor's.

===

Enjoy your trip.

	-s