chaltas@uiucdcsb.UUCP (10/14/84)
Shinohara track generally is excellent in both appearance and mechanics. It is also rather expensive. The switches have uninsulated metal frogs, which means more work for you in installation, but better operation of your locos. If you just install them like you do with plastic - frog switches you will have short circuits all over the place, but with the proper use of insulated rail joiners you'll have something really nice. See one of the many how-to-do-it books on tracklaying for details. Get thee to a hobby shop and look over their track selection -- I know of one in your area -- Erich Fuch's, about a block from Goverment Center (on Tremont St. ?). George Chaltas chaltas!uiucdcs
nucomp@ihuxb.UUCP (cjw) (10/30/84)
Is this line still necessary? ***Repeat of original article follows*** I'm fairly new at model railroading, I have been in the process in constructing a layout and need infomation on tracks. I don't have the time to hand lay tracks so I'm looking for per assemble track that looks real and easy to work with. I have used the ATLAS tackage but it looks very unrealistic and does't go together very good. I read a little on PECO trackage, it seems that this trackage looks realistic and that switches can be mounted under the tracks without very little problems but I have not used this type. Could any one give some kindly advise about trackage for this starter outer PLEASE. By the way I my layout is in HO scale. *** My reply follows. *** Since you said that the Atlas track doesn't go togeather very good I assume you were using sectional track. The flex track is better, howevever you have to aquire a track gauge to make curves and you have to cut into the tie plates to allow the rail joiners to slide on. Also there are problems making smooth curves unless you keep the joints staggered. This can be done because one of the rails slides through the spike heads and you just slide the rail from another piece of track in to the end of the track being sure that the rail goes under neath the molded on spike heads. I always recommend soldering the rail joiners onto the ends of the rails. This is the only way to assure trouble free operation. I also always use nickel silver track. If the brass track is used be ready to clean it very often. The plastic tie track looks better if you spray paint the entire track flat black. To remove paint from the top of the rails simply take a rag, get some thinner on it and wipe the top of the rail with it. I haven't had any experience with the Peco track so I won't say anything about it. The most realistic track is made by Tru-scale. It can be bought all ready to slide togeather with the use of rail joiners. It is basicly sectional track. It is made by taking milled roadbed with ties and spiking a pair of rails to it. It is simillar to home laid track but it comes in sections and some one else already did the work for you. They have curves in radiuses of 18" to 36", straight track in 2' or 3' lengths, and #4, #6, #8 and Y type turnouts. The major drawback to this type of track is the price. It is quite expensive. It isn't sold in very many hobby shops. It usually has to ordered by mail. If any one is looking for anything in model railroading, I suggest "The World of HO Scale". It is Walthers model railroad catalog and it is over 700 pages of model railroad supplies. It is expensive at a list price of $11.95, but if it helps you find what your looking for more easily it is usually worth it. Most hobby shops can order anything from the catalog and have it for you in a couple days. They also publish N scale, O scale and decal catalogs. Before any says, "What about JMC/Con-Cor", I will say their last HO scale catalog was published several years ago and is very much out of date. Also Walthers carries more manufacturers. The usual disclaimer follows: I have no connection with any of the above firms and the opinions expressed in the above article are mine and only mine. Clayton James Wootton AT&T Bell Labs Naperville Illinois