garnett@tcgould.tn.cornell.edu (Roger Garnett) (02/21/90)
Some misc housecleaning: -Mini Mania 1670-B Zanker Rd. San Jose, CA. 95112 408-436-7766 -There was a question here around xmas about restoration books for the Jaguar sedans. I now have an answer: Pratical Classics & car restorer have announced the latest addition to their restoration series in the Jan. issue: MK2 Jaguar Restoration- 100+ pages, over 70 in colour. (lbs.) 12.95. The restoration series (which I reviewed last month) now includes: 1930's (Standard Swallow Big Nine, coachwork), Spitfire, MGB, Mini Cooper, Triumph Herald/Vitesse, Midget/Sprite, Morris Minor, Land Rover, Austin A40 (the "newer" variety), Sunbeam Rapier, and Metal Working. (lbs.) 5.50-6.95 They also have a "mini series" (shorter, cheaper books) which include: Austin Healey, Guide to the Jaguar Engine, Ford 100E Renovation, Rover P4 Mechanics, TR 7 Restoration, TR4A Restoration, Austin Seven, Reliant Scimitar Restoration, Buying a Classic Mercedes-Benz, Panel Beating, (as opposed to just plain beating on your car), and Morgan -Buying & Restoration. (lbs.) 2.90-3.50 Several of the bigger books are available in the US from Classic Motorbooks, or by direct post (add (lb) 1 for each book) from pratical classics. Visa OK, but no phone # listed. Get a copy from your local British car magazine distributer. They have just finished a Stag restoration, are working on an E-Type, and have just started an MGB new-body-shell rebuild. I expect these will be books in their time, too. -A question for some of you racer-types: What kind of adheasive is used to mount the numbers and other decals on the cars? A lot of these cars have some $$$ paint jobs, not something you want to stick bumper stickers to. I imagine you have to change them at times, also. Yet they have to stay in place in the rain, wash, and at C+ MPH. *************************************************************************** The battle cry went out through the universe- The Welty has prepared The Outback Rally, in an attempt to foil the best efforts of the small rebel forces. But we're not ready! We're only just now completing our new base, and it's not fully operational yet! Even if we can get the Sprite ready for battle, it's not capable of transporting all of our forces that far. We may have to do battle in the Si- It's capable of carying a pilot, navagator, and back-seat droid. The Sprite would be a much better match for the opposing fleet, but it might not even be able to work it's way out of the dark depths of DeLongBarn, past the scores of water and land vessels by then, and still have the necessary work completed. But wait- all hope is not lost. There is another... *************************************************************************** ________ /___ _ \ Roger Garnett (garnett@tcgould.TN.CORNELL.EDU) /| || \ \ Agricultural Economics | The All New: | |___|| _ | 3 Warren Hall | South Lansing Centre For | | \ | | | Cornell University | Wayward Sports Cars \| \ |__/ / Ithaca, N.Y. 14853 | (607) 533-7735 \________/ (607) 255-2522 | SAFETY FAST!
akkana@eeg.com (Akkana) (02/22/90)
garnett@tcgould.TN.CORNELL.EDU asks: > -A question for some of you racer-types: What kind of adheasive is used to > mount the numbers and other decals on the cars? A lot of these cars have > some $$$ paint jobs, not something you want to stick bumper stickers to. > I imagine you have to change them at times, also. Yet they have to stay > in place in the rain, wash, and at C+ MPH. Autocrossers almost always use magnetic numbers (usually cut out of magnetic vinyl sheets, obtained through big art supply stores or racing supply places). Many road racers do the same thing -- in fact, I think the Showroom Stock rulebook strongly suggests this. Occasionally numbers fall off under high speed or hard cornering, but it isn't too common. When I venture out on road courses with my only-semi-magnetic autocross car (Bondo isn't ferrous, you know :-) I use little pieces of tape at strategic points to make the numbers less likely to fall off. A lot of people (with less snazzy paint jobs) just go ahead and stick contact paper on the car, or paint on their permanent numbers and then if they have to run another number for some reason, they use tape to modify or cover the painted number. Of course, not everyone can use magnetic numbers. The Lotus, Griffith and Corvette types have a variety of solutions (none quite as convenient as magnetics, though). I think Randy Peck's stock Elan had contact paper numbers (I don't know if he ever took them off). A Corvette guy in San Diego has transparent plastic pockets which he tapes to the side of the car with electrical tape, then slides the numbers into the pockets. It ends up looking quite good and won't fall off. And some of the racer supply houses are starting to sell static material which is very light vinyl or something similar which is designed to stick to the sides of fibreglass cars through static cling. These seem like they usually work, though I haven't seen many of them being used and I'm not sure they would work in rain or 120+ velocities. -- ...Akkana akkana@eeg.com SAM Technology, Inc. {pacbell,lll-winken,ucsfcgl}!eeg!akkana
sam@sco.com (Sam Sjogren) (02/24/90)
From: uunet!harvard.harvard.edu!mit-eddie!think!ames!eeg.com!akkana (Akkana)
Subject: Re: Misc, Battle Plans
Autocrossers almost always use magnetic numbers (usually cut out of magnetic
vinyl sheets, obtained through big art supply stores or racing supply
places). Many road racers do the same thing -- in fact, I think the
Showroom Stock rulebook strongly suggests this. Occasionally numbers
fall off under high speed or hard cornering, but it isn't too common.
At the SCCA road-racing drivers' school ground school, they warned against
using magnetic numbers, that they're seen to fall off fairly frequently.
Then again, I've gotten lots of conflicting information from people
in that club.
A lot of people (with less snazzy paint jobs) just go ahead and stick
contact paper on the car, or paint on their permanent numbers and then
if they have to run another number for some reason, they use tape to
modify or cover the painted number.
As Andy's pointed out, waxing the car (or at least the parts that are
going to get the contact paper) before putting on the contact paper
makes it pretty easy to remove. And a strip of racers' tape is very
convenient for modifying numbers (like we did with Andy's car last
Sunday when I had to drive his car in my run group which already had a
#73, just added a "1" in front of it).
-me