[comp.sys.amiga.hardware] Nec3d or Sony cd-1304

liberato@drivax.UUCP (Jimmy Liberato) (02/06/90)

bdb@becker.UUCP (Bruce Becker) writes:

>	You need to make sure the monitor works well
>	in interlace mode without a flicker-fixer.
>	Many multi-syncs will put the odd and even
>	frames on top of each other on the display
>	and you end up with an effectively non-
>	interlaced image.

This is an important point! Even if you have a multisync
that can scan down to the Amigas 15.75 kHz, some simply
are not designed for proper interlace which leads to the
awful problem you describe. They may work perfectly with
the flickerFixer, however, at noninterlaced 31.5 kHz.
This is an important consideration only for those buying
a multisync now in anticipation of a flickerFixer or ECS
in the future.

One monitor that is particularly good at interlace is
the Mitsubishi Diamondscan.  It better be since it has
a composite video (T.V.) input also.

--
Jimmy Liberato   ...!amdahl!drivax!liberato                              

robin@sabre.uucp (Robin D. Wilson/1000000) (02/06/90)

bdb@becker.UUCP (Bruce Becker) writes:
>	You need to make sure the monitor works well
>	in interlace mode without a flicker-fixer.
>	Many multi-syncs will put the odd and even
>	frames on top of each other on the display
>	and you end up with an effectively non-
>	interlaced image.

I have a NEC 3D.  It works fine.  In fact it is great.  The really nice thing 
about it is that I can shink or expand the screen size to perfectly match my 
needs/wants.  It has an adjustment that allows you to increase the distance
between pixels from as small as to be indetectably close to as far as to be
able to see clear dots from one to another.  THe advasntage of this is that
you can shink a non-interlaced screen down to the size of a Mac SE (or +) and 
show color graphics as sharp as theirs.  Also, an interlace screen really 
shows less flicker on this monitor than on the 1080.


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