[comp.sys.amiga.hardware] Broken SIMM sockets

alee@elaine20.stanford.edu (Andrew Lee) (01/22/91)

I'm posting this to a number of groups I don't normally read, because this
question isn't really computer-specific.  If you post a reply, please either
mail me a copy, or cross-post it to comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.

I have a clone 386 25 MHz motherboard with cache, and on two of the eight
SIMM sockets (both in the first bank of four), one of the plastic tabs at
the ends which hold the SIMMs in place have broken off.  They will no
longer hold my 1Mx9 SIMMs properly, although they are able to hold the
256Kx9 SIMMs that I took out a year ago, and which I had to put back in.
Unfortunately, this limits me to 2M of RAM.  (The 1Mx9 and 256Kx9 SIMMs
seem to be barely different sizes, but I'd need a micrometer to check.)  
I'd like some suggestions for an inexpensive solution to this.

I've heard that there are piggyback sockets that you can clip on to the
original sockets, and which you plug your SIMMs into.  Everybody I've
talked to thinks they exist, but don't know where to get them.  So, do
are they available, and if so, where, and for how much?  Also, if they're
too high, I might have a problem fitting them in, because at one end of
the sockets, there's virtually no clearance above the SIMMs.  Are these
devices designed with this sort of problem in mind?

Failing this, I guess I could have the broken sockets removed, and new
ones soldered in.  Where could I have this done (in the Stanford and
Palo Alto area) inexpensively, and how much would it be?  I'd like to
minimize the possibility of heat damage to the motherboard.

	Andrew Lee
	alee@portia.stanford.edu

steveh@tasman.cc.utas.edu.au (Steven Howell) (01/22/91)

	Unusual solution. To have another socket mounted on the existing
one. I suppose it would work. I have been repairing macintoshs with exactly
the same type of fault, as they employ delicate graphite based sockets.
Normally, you can quite carefully (with the mac anyaway) lift the plastic
support housing of the pins. This applies only to the black graphite type
sockets. Once you have done so you can apply a little solder to each of the 
exposed pins (to flux them up a bit. If you do not do this the chances of 
lifting a track is likely) and remove the pins with tweezers. Then using a a
'solder sucker' remove the remaining solder in the holes. Then cleasn with flux
remover. This is then ready for a new socket or (or pair of sockets).
With the plug or push in type, normally white plastic, the pins will simply 
break of with gentle rocking left to right of the socket. Normally there are
pcb lifts under the socket, allowing leway. You then apply solder, remove pins
and clean.

	OF COURSE, you MUST have soldering experience, other wise you are
running a great risk of damaging the board, especially with clones, as they
use, .25 track widths. 
	Before any of this is performed, antistatic precautions must be 
implimented. 

	So see how ya go ay'				Steve h

teexmmo@ioe.lon.ac.uk (Matthew Moore) (01/24/91)

(Andrew Lee) writes:
>
>I have a clone 386 25 MHz motherboard with cache, and on two of the eight
>SIMM sockets (both in the first bank of four), one of the plastic tabs at
>the ends which hold the SIMMs in place have broken off.  They will no

I managed to break one on a MAC. Luckily, it was new,
and the user got a warranty replacement mother board.

My view is that those clips are the worst design feature I have seen
since the standard implementation of the space bar (also has plastic
clips prone to breakage).