blgardne@javelin.es.com (Blaine Gardner) (03/04/91)
There's been a lot more interest in trackball hacking that usual, and
I've been unable to get e-mail to several people that have asked me to
send the collection to them, so here it is.
Blaine Gardner 3/3/91
The flow of hacks never stops, appended to the end are a couple of hacks
found in comp.sys.atari.st. With minor changes, they'll work on the
Amiga.
Blaine Gardner 2/19/91
===========================================================================
This is a (hopefully) cleaned up version of the trackball hacks for
comp.binaries.amiga. There is one hack for the Wico trackball, and four
hacks for the Atari 2600 trackball.
Blaine Gardner 7/27/89
===========================================================================
As far as I know, this is a complete collection of all the trackball to
mouse hacks that have been posted to comp.sys.amiga.
First is my hack for the Wico trackball. My initial posting of the Wico
hack had a couple of pins switched, but this was caught pretty quick,
and the corrected version is the only one that has been posted since.
Next are a bunch of hacks for the Atari 2600 trackball. My Atari hack is
overly complex, so I'd recommend one of the others.
I believe I've retained the entire texts of the other postings I've
included here, so if you can use one of the hacks, why not say thanks to
it's author?
My own comments are added in throughout the article, and are seperated
by "=", as you'll see. If there are any additions or corrections, I'll
be happy to update and repost this article.
===========================================================================
This is the last repost that I remember, though it doesn't seem like
more than a year.
===========================================================================
Path: esunix!blgardne
From: blgardne@esunix.UUCP (Blaine Gardner)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga
Subject: Trackball conversions (repost)
Keywords: wico atari trackball to amiga mouse hacks
Message-ID: <718@esunix.UUCP>
Date: 17 Feb 88 19:13:35 GMT
Organization: Evans & Sutherland Computer Corporation
Lines: 536
A one line mention of my trackball hack has stirred some interest again,
and since it's been more than a year since I posted it, I'm reposting my
trackball-to-Amiga-mouse hack. I'm also including the other two
trackball hacks that have appeared on the net. Choose the one you like
best, and kiss your warranty goodbye!
========================================================================
Notes from George Robbins on my original posting:
========================================================================
Per request, I am reposting the original article on converting WICO and
perhaps Atari 2600 trackballs to mouse-compatible devices. While I have
not tried the conversion, what the original author describes seems to
be quite reasonable.
One other approach that might be easier would be to obtain a spare mouse,
extract the little logic board and attach it to the various LEDs, photo-
sensors and switches...
The original article in comp.sys.amiga describes how to convert WICO
and Atari 2600 track balls to work with the Amiga. Converting for the
Atari ST is essentially the same, except for some disagreement between
Atari and CBM on which quadrature signals go to which "joystick" lines.
Pin Amiga Atari
=== ===== =====
1 Vertical X-B
2 Horizontal X-A
3 Vertical-Quatrature Y-A
4 Horizontal-Quadrature Y-B
5 Pot X N.C.
6 Left Button Left Button
7 +5V +5V
8 Ground Ground
9 Pot Y-Right Button Right Button
As you can see, the pin-outs are compatible enough that no harm will result
if the two are interchanged, however since the quadrature outputs don't
match up you will get pointless twitching instead of useful motion. Simply
switch the wires going to pins 1 thru 4 until you get it right.
A minor problem is that the WICO trackballs are discontinued, so unless you
already know where to find one, you may have problems.
===========================================================================
My original posting:
===========================================================================
Original (corrected) article from blgardne@esunix.UUCP (Blaine Gardner):
Title: Wico trackball mouse VERSION 2.0 (BUG FIX & ATARI NOTE)
Ok, here it is, sorry I took so long to post it. I have tried to make this
understandable, if you don't know what an LM 339 or a DB9 is, maybe you
shouldn't try this.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wico track ball modification.
Converting the Wico track ball into an Amiga mouse compatible track ball
is a fairly simple procedure. But if you are uncomfortable with a soldering
iron, get some competent help.
You could damage your Amiga if you make a mistake when
assembling this project! You could also void your Amiga
warranty! You will definitly void your trackball warranty!
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Ok, now that that's out of the way here are the gory details.
The stock trackball contains a small pc board, this will be removed and
replaced with one containing an LM 339 quad comparator.
The comparator simply converts the output of the opto-coupler to a TTL
level pulse. Both the X and Y axis use two emitter-detector pairs. The
output of each of these detectors is fed through one of the comparators.
The output of the comparator is then fed to the Amiga's mouse port. Since
the output of the trackball will be identical to the mouse's output, the
modified trackball will work with ALL software that uses the mouse.
Here we go!
Remove the 6 (six) screws from the bottom of the trackball case and
open it (right-side-up please). In the lower-right corner there is a small
pc board with two connectors. Remove the board & connectors. You can toss
the board, and the cable that has the joystick connector. (The cable only
has 7 wires and we need 8. You can scrounge the 11 pin male header off of
the board.)
Cut a piece of perf board the same size as the original board. Just
make sure it fits in the same place as the original. The plastic grooves
will hold it perfectly.
Two cautions here: make sure the top can be screwed down without hanging
up on the new board, and make sure all your components will clear the
standoff near the board!
Using the (crude) schematics below, wire up the circuit. You will need to
drill a hole in the case to mount a second switch (for the right button).
Make sure the second switch will clear all existing hardware! Wire the second
switch between ground and pin 9 on the DB 9 connector.
It is a good idea to place a medium sized capacitor (10-20 uf) across +5 and
ground where power enters the perf board.
Parts List:
Wico Trackball #72-4545
Wico Corporation
Consumer Division
6400 W. Gross Point Road
Niles, Illinois 60648
800-323-4014
Joystick Extension Cord Radio Shack #276-1978
LM 339 Quad Comparator Radio Shack #276-1712
14 pin DIP Socket Radio Shack #276-1999
Soft-Touch Switch Radio Shack #275-1566
Perf Board
11 pin Male Header (can be removed from Wico)
10 - 20 microfarad capacitor (12V or higher)
Resistors (1/4 or 1/8 Watt, 5% tolerance)
280 Ohm (4 each)
3.3K Ohm (4 each)
6.8K Ohm (4 each)
100K Ohm (4 each)
---------------------------------------
Wico TrackBall Internal Connector
(Color code assumes Wico is consistent in their wiring.)
1 Pushbutton White
2 +5 (Y-axis) Red
3 +5 (X-axis) Red
4 Ground (Pushbutton) White
5 Ground (X-axis) Black
6 Ground (Y-axis) Black
7 N/C ---
8 Y-axis output Violet
9 Y-axis output Blue
10 X-axis output Green
11 X-axis output Yellow
---------------------------------------
Pinouts for LM 339
------------------------
| 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 |
) |
|. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 |
------------------------
1 Output 2
2 Output 1
3 +5 Volts
4 Input 1-
5 Input 1+
6 Input 2-
7 Input 2+
8 Input 3-
9 Input 3+
10 Input 4-
11 Input 4+
12 Ground
13 Output 4
14 Output 3
---------------------------------------
Amiga Mouse Connector (DB 9 Female)
-------------
\ 5 4 3 2 1 /
\ 9 8 7 6 /
---------
1 V pulse
2 H pulse
3 VQ pulse
4 HQ pulse
5 N/C
6 Button 1 (Left)
7 + 5 Volts
8 Ground
9 Button 2 (Right)
----------------------------------------------
Connections from Wico | Connections from LM 339
11 pin socket to LM 339 | to DB9 (Mouse port connector)
|
Wico -> LM 339 | LM 339 --> DB9
---- ------ | ------ ---
1 (to pin 6 on DB9) | 2 1
2 3 \__+5 Volts | 13 2
3 3 / | 1 3
4 12 \ | 14 4
5 12 >--Ground | N/C 5
6 12 / | (pin 1 on Wico) 6
7 N/C | +5 Volts 7
8 4 | Ground 8
9 6 | 9
10 10 |
11 8 |
---------------------------------------
O +5 Volts O +5 Volts
| |
\ \
3.3K Ohm / / 6.8 K Ohm
\ 100K Ohm \
| |
+-----/\/\/\/-------+ |
| /| | |
| / +|---+------+ (Pins 5,7,9,11)
| /1/4 | |
Output to /__|________/ LM | |
Amiga \ \ 339 | \
(Pins 1,2,13,14) \ | / 280 Ohm
\ -|--+ \
\| | |
| |
| |
Input from ball >-------+ -----
(Pins 4,6,8,10) | ---
| -
\
3.3K Ohm /
\
|
|
|
-----
---
-
-------------------------------------------------------
There it is! The above information was obtained from the Amiga Hardware
Reference Manual, and from tearing apart my mouse & trackball and trace-
ing out the schematics myself. (Mostly from tearing my hardware apart!)
Any errors in the above information are mine (but for a few hours work
they can be yours too! |^) ), not Evans & Sutherland's. They are kind
enough to pay me to play with their computers, they have no control over
my ramblings here on usenet.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The above infomation is the correct version. In my first posting + 5 volts
and button 2 were switched on the DB9 pinouts.
There have been a lot of inquiries about doing the same modification on
the Atari 2600 trackball. I hadn't seen the Atari untill two days ago, but
I can now tell you that the same procedure will work for it. In fact it is
a little easier on the Atari trackball because the LM339 is already present.
Just remove all the components from the board except the 339, the supply
voltage filter (inductor + electrolytic cap near the 6 pin header), and
resistors R9 - R18. Actually you'll have to remove those too because they
are the wrong values, and the 339 socket blocks several traces that need
to be cut. (As I remember 430K and 10K should be swapped for 100K and 3.3K
respectively.)
The biggest problem is that Atari wired the 339 as a non-inverting
comparator, and Amiga uses an inverting comparator. So you'll have to CUT
AND JUMPER (those that flinched may leave the room) to get the inverted
configuration (see above data for the correct circuit).
I don't plan to do a detailed plan for the Atari trackball, if the above
information doesn't mean much, don't try it yourself.
This general plan should work for all trackballs that use a pair of opto-
couplers on each axis. The old TG trackball for the Apple II (and probably
other computers) will NOT work since it uses a pair of pots.
I hope this helps all you hardware hackers that can't live without a real
trackball. Have fun, and don't blow up your Amiga!
===========================================================================
Here is the second trackball hack that showed up on the net. This is the
easiest one for the Atari 2600 trackball. (This WAS the easiest hack,
check for one closer to the end of this article for the easiest Atari hack.)
===========================================================================
From msl5864@ritcv.UUCP Wed Dec 31 17:00:00 1969
Relay-Version: version B 2.10.1 6/24/83; site esunix.UUCP
Path: esunix!uplherc!utah-gr!utah-cs!ut-sally!husc6!seismo!rochester!ritcv!msl5864
From: msl5864@ritcv.UUCP
Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga
Subject: Atari Trackball Conversion
Message-ID: <161@ritcv.UUCP>
Date: Fri, 13-Mar-87 00:19:16 MST
Article-I.D.: ritcv.161
Posted: Fri Mar 13 00:19:16 1987
Date-Received: Sun, 15-Mar-87 00:14:00 MST
Reply-To: msl5864@ritcv.UUCP (Michael S. Leibow)
Organization: Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY
Lines: 43
I just bought a couple of Atari brand trackballs at the local hobby store
for 14 bucks and decided to convert one of them to work like a mouse for
my Amiga. I followed the instructions that were given a while back for Atari
trackballs, and totally ruined the thing. After working on a second one, I
studied the circuits myself and have successfully made the modification.
The first part of the modification is quite easy and doesn't need any soldering.
THe second part will involve a minor amount of soldering and that is so that
the right switch can be disconnected from the left and work like the mouse.
Part I. Open the trackball by removing the screws and prying the two halves
apart. There will be a 6 pin connector at the end of the DB-9 cable. Scratch
away the foil paths on the circuit board that lead to pins 1 through 4 from
left to right. (Two of the foil paths are on one side of the circuit board
and the other two are on the other side). Connect the following pins
from the 6 pin connector to the pins of the LM339.
6 PIN CONNECTOR LM399
--------------- -----
1 -> 14
2 -> 2
3 -> 13
4 -> 1
I accomplished this by piggy backing a second socket on top of the LM339 and
just plugging wires from the connector to the socket. This should complete
part I. To test it out, plug it in to the Amiga and try to use it like a
mouse. Both buttons will work like the left button on the mouse.
Part II. In order to make the right button work like the right button on the
mouse you will have to buy another cable. In the trackball I bought, there was
no wire for pin nine of the DB-9 connector and that is where the right switch
goes. So, cut off the old cable and solder the remains of the old cable to the
new cable. Cut the red wire connecting the two switches so that the majority
of the length is attached to the right switch. COnnect the wire from the right
switch to pin nine of the cable. Now the trackball should work just like a
mouse. Be very careful that you don't connect the wrong wires from the DB-9
cable to the six pin connector and switches. On my first attempt I switched
pins 7 and 8 by accident and blew some of the chips on the circuit board.
I have already built this circuit and I don't believe there are any mistakes
in this posting. I am sorry in advance for any mistakes there might be. Also,
I have nothing to do with Commodore or Atari.
============================================================================
This is the third (and final?) trackball hack to appear. The advantage
of this one is it allows the Atari 2600 trackball to be switched between
joystick and Amiga mouse modes. When I built it, the mouse response was
pretty jumpy compared to the other two hacks. If you want a game
controller, use this hack. If you want a smooth mouse, use one of the
other two.
=============================================================================
Path: esunix!uplherc!utah-gr!utah-cs!ut-sally!husc6!mit-eddie!mit-amt!mit-caf!rajeev
From: rajeev@mit-caf.UUCP (Rajeev Jayavant)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga
Subject: Atari Trackball Modification
Message-ID: <367@mit-caf.UUCP>
Date: 8 Jun 87 06:22:47 GMT
Reply-To: rajeev@mit-caf.UUCP (Rajeev Jayavant)
Distribution: na
Organization: Massachusets Institute of Technology
Lines: 159
For those of you who've been waiting for an inexpensive trackball,
here are the modifications for converting an Atari trackball (model
CX22) to emulate an Amiga mouse. This device is different from the
Wico trackball which has been previously mentioned on the newsgroup.
One nice feature of the Atari trackball is a joystick emulation mode
in which it can be used in place of a joystick. It can be plugged
directly into the Amiga and used in the joystick mode. Unfortunately
a few modifications are needed to use it in place of the mouse.
KayBee toy stores in the Boston area currently have these things on
sale for $9.99 so you should be able to have a fully functional
trackball for well under $20.
For those who grow squeamish at the sight of a dismantled trackball, it
is possible to build an adapter that can be plugged in between the
Amiga and the trackball. The only disadvantage of the adapter
apporach is that the second trackball button cannot be used as the
right mouse button. Please send me email if you would like
instructions for constructing the in-line adapter.
Disclaimer: While I beileve that the instructions provided here are
correct, I do not claim any responsibility for the results of your
actions. I seriously doubt you can injure your Amiga even if you make
a mistake in construction; I do not know if the same can be said for
the trackball.
Now for the moment you've all been waiting for. You will need a
74LS86, a 74LS157, and one Radio Shack joystick extention cord (or
equivalent 9 conductor cord with a female DB9 connector on the end).
Note: Radio Shack does not carry the IC's, but they should be commonly
available.
The cord is necessary because the trackball comes with a 7 conductor
cord, making it impossible to use both buttons separately.
Unfortunately all the Radio Shacks in my area are out of the extention
cord thus I had to reuse the cord that came with the trackball and do
not yet have a functioning right mouse button.
Open the trackball by removing the four screws on the bottom of the
case. Separate the two halves of the case by holding on to the bottom
half and pushing a screwdriver through one of the two holes near the
middle of the case (they look like they should have recessed screws in
them but there aren't any screws). Be careful when separating the two
halves otherwise the ball will land on your foot and roll across the
floor :-).
In the upper left corner there is a 6 pin connector to which the
incoming cable is attached. Remove the connector to expose the six
signal pins. I will refer to these as T1 thru T6 (from left to
right). The signals on the pins are:
Pin | Joystick Mode | Trackball Mode | Wire Color
----+---------------+--------------------+-----------
T1 | left | vertical direction | green
T2 | right | vertical pulse | violet
T3 | up | horizontal dir | white
T4 | down | horizontal pulse | blue
T5 | +5 V in | +5 V in | orange
T6 | ground | ground | black
----+---------------+--------------------+-----------
The horizontal and vertical pulses (T4 and T2) can be fed directly to
the Amiga (to the right pins of the game port, of course), but the
HQpulse and VQpulse required by the Amiga must be constructed from
the available signals. The HQpulse is simply the XNOR of the Hpulse
and the Horiz. direction. Similarly the VQpulse is the XNOR of the
Vpulse and Vert. direction. The two XNOR gates are implemented using a
74LS86 (quad XOR gate). The 74LS157 is a quad 2-to-1 multiplexer that
is used to preserve the joystick emulation mode.
CONSTRUCTION NOTES
------------------
There is plenty of room inside the trackball case, so you can choose
just about any construction method you desire. I chose to wire wrap
the circuit on a tiny piece of perfboard and mounted it in the right
side of the case. I attached the circuit to the trackball by wire
wrapping directly onto the posts exposed by removing the six-pin
connector. I soldered the incoming cable onto a DIP header (also from
Radio Shack) which is then plugged into a third socket on my little
circuit board. Being able to easily remove the cable is a big plus
since you can keep it out of your way 'til the very end.
The schematic below shows how to construct the little circuit board.
The pins on the gameport connector are referred to as P1 thru P9.
Connect the circuit board to the appropriate pins (T1-T6 and P1-P9).
The joystick/trackball switch is the little slide switch near the
lower left corner of the trackball (top view). You will need to
solder a little wire to the bottom-most of the three contacts on the
switch.
To get to the contacts on the bottom of the switch, you will need to
remove the PC board in the trackball. Lift out the "cue ball" and the
two rollers it is resting on. Then remove the two screws holding down
the PC board and lift it out. Reverse the process after you've
attached the wire to the switch contact with a dab of solder.
To wire the buttons, do the following:
1) Cut the red wire connecting the two switches together.
(also cut the red wire leading to the incoming cable).
2) Connect the black wire to ground (T6).
3) connect the red wire from the left button to P6.
4) connect the red wire from the right button to P9.
SCHEMATIC
---------
Joystick/Trackball Switch -----------+
(Bottom contact) |
T2-----------------------+-------+---|--------------+
T1---------------------+ | | | |
| | | | |
T3------+--------------|-|-----+ | +-|--------------|--------------P3= VQpulse
| | | | | | | |
T4----+-|--------------|-|-----|-|-|-|--------------|--------------P2= Hpulse
| | | | | | | | |
T5--+-|-|------------+-|-|-+---|-|-|-|------------+-|--------------P7= +5V
| | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | +--------+ | | | | | | | | +--------+ | |
| | +-|1 7 14|-+ | | | | | | +-|1 7 16|-+ |
| +---|2 4 13|---+-|-|---|-|-|---|2 4 15|---|-+
| +-|3 L 12|-----+ | +-|-|-|---|3 L 14|---+ |
| +-|4 S 11|-+ | | | | +---|4 S 13|-+ |
+-----|5 8 10|-+ | | +-|-----|5 1 12|-|---|------------P4= HQpulse
+---|6 6 9|-------+ | +-----|6 5 11|-|---+
| +-|7 8|---------+ +---|7 7 10|-|---+
| | +--------+ | +-|8 9| | |
| | | | +--------+ | |
+-|--------------------------|-|------------+ |
| +-|----------------|-----------P1= Vpulse
T6=GND--+-------+--------------------+----------+-----+-----------P8= GND
| |
+-----------+ +------------+
|Left Button|----+ |Right Button|----------P9= button 2
+-----------+ | +------------+
+--------------------------------------P6= button 1
TROUBLESHOOTING
---------------
Reassemble the trackball after making all connections. Set the
joystick/trackball switch to "trackball" and try using the trackball
in place of the mouse. If all has gone well, your pointer should move
smoothly in response to the trackball movement.
If there is no movement or the movement is *very* jittery,
double-check your connections. It is very likely that something is
not connected or that two signals have been switched. It may help to
try out the joystick emulation mode if you think signals have been
crossed (it'll be easier to tell which signals have been crossed!).
Good Luck!
Rajeev
--
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Rajeev Jayavant Quote: "Excuse me. I've lost my marbles." (P. Opus)
ARPA: rajeev@caf.mit.edu UUCP: ....!mit-eddie!caf!rajeev
===========================================================================
Ok, there you go, the collected wisdom of the ages on the subject of
hacking trackballs into Amiga mice. Since they are identical in function
to the standard mouse (once modified), they will work with 100% of
existing software. And Kay-Bee Toys still has a bunch of them for under
$10. Happy hardware hacking!
Um, famous last words. After I reposted the above for the nth time, the
following was posted to Usenet. It is by far the simplest of the Atari
trackball hacks.
============================================================================
Path: esunix!uplherc!wasatch!mailrus!tut.cis.ohio-state.edu!cwjcc!gatech!purdue!decwrl!labrea!agate!bionet!apple!voder!pyramid!comdesign!ucsbcsl!dougp@sbphy.ucsb.edu
From: dougp@sbphy.ucsb.edu
Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga
Subject: SIMPLE track ball mod for 2600 track balls
Message-ID: <977@hub.ucsb.edu>
Date: 12 Nov 88 17:50:18 GMT
Sender: news@hub.ucsb.edu
Organization: UC, Santa Barbara. Physics Computer Services
Lines: 32
I just got through reading a whole bunch of ways you can modify
track balls to make them work with the Amiga. I don't know about
the Wico track ball, but for the Atari track ball there is a much
simpler circuit mod than any of those listed. The instructions for
opening the case and adding a second mouse button were correct and
as simple as can be done, so I won't repeat them.
On the 2600 track ball circuit board there are 6 test points along
the front of the circuit board labled TPx where x is a number.
Near the cable connecter there is an IC labled 4019.
instructions:
1) pull out the 4019 IC
2) bend out pins 1,3,5,7
3) put the 4019 back in its socket
4) connect pins 1,3,5,7 to test points TP3,TP2,TP4,TP1 respctively
5) your done, you now have a 1 button track ball.
Comments: This assumes the 4019 is socketed, it was in mine, but since
Tramiel took over that may have changed. This mod keeps the function
of the joystick/track ball switch. I did this back when marble madness
came out, but did not have access to the net to report it at that time.
Disclamer: I poped open my trackball to check this as I wrote it,
however I still disclaim any resposibility for its accuracey or any
problems it causes. Do this at your own risk!
I also modified an Atari 5200 track ball to work as an Amiga mouse,
but I doubt anyone can get one of those, besides, those used brass
shafts to support the ball, and they wear out too fast.
(hows this for a short signature?) Douglas Peale
===========================================================================
Ok, as of July 1989, this is the complete list of trackball hacks. If
there are any more, please let me know.
Blaine Gardner.
===========================================================================
And one more! As noted at the start of this file, the two hacks below
are for the Atari ST, so make sure you get the pinout right for the
Amiga. (BSG 2/19/91)
===========================================================================
Article 19431 of comp.sys.atari.st:
Path: esunix!uplherc!hellgate.utah.edu!cs.utexas.edu!samsung!brutus.cs.uiuc.edu!psuvax1!psuvm!bgb100
From: BGB100@PSUVM.BITNET (Bruce Blanar)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.st
Subject: 2600 track=mouse Mod
Message-ID: <89331.212324BGB100@PSUVM.BITNET>
Date: 28 Nov 89 02:23:24 GMT
Organization: Penn State University
Lines: 87
Several people have asked me to post the description of the modifications to
and Atari 2600 trackball to have it work as both a joystick and a mouse for
the ST. Below is the semi-detailed plans I wrote up to perform this mod.
Let me know if any corrections are necessary. Thanks.
Atari 2600 Trackball -----> Atari ST mouse
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are the mods necessary to convert an Atari 2600 Trackball for use
as a mouse for the ST. Notice that this mod will allow the trackball
to also function as a joystick depending on how the switch on the bottom
of the trackball is set (T=mouse, J=joystick). The only major drawback
of this mod is that the trackball has only one button...the left mouse
button. (but, hey, how many programs use the right mouse button?)
OK, here goes...
1. Figure out how to open the trackball.
There are a few (4?) screws on the bottom of the trackball. Once
the screws are out, you should be able to pry the top half off.
2. Take out the ball (looks like a billard ball!).
Look on the board for a chip marked 4019. If this chip is socketed,
you're lucky (the mod is much easier). If it is not, well...
In any case, this chip has to be removed. DON'T destroy it! It
is still needed. Normal CMOS precautions apply. Static can KILL!
--At this point, you should have the 4019 out of the circuit. If it
was not already in a socket, I would suggest putting a socket in.
3. Find the pins 1, 3, 5 and 7 on the 4019 chip. Use the diagram
below if you are not sure. Bend these pins up so that they point
either up or out to the side. These are the pins that will be used
for the 4 wires in this mod. They will not have to be reinserted
into the socket where the chip belongs.
___________
---> -|1 U 14|-
Bend these -|2 13|-
pins out ---> -|3 4 12|-
-|4 0 11|-
---> -|5 1 10|-
-|6 9 9|-
---> -|7 8|-
-------------
4. To make things easier to solder, reinsert the 4019 into the socket.
5. Now, 4 wires must be soldered into the circuit. Use the table
below to know which wires go where. All connections to the circuit
are either to the 4019 or to Test Points (TP) on the circuit board.
Pin # on 4019 | Connection point
----------------+--------------------
1 | TP1
3 | TP2
5 | TP4
7 | TP3
6. Recheck all the solder joints to make sure no solder bridges exist.
Reinstall the billard ball onto the rollers.
7. Close up the trackball. Set the selector switch on the bottom of
the trackball to T (trackball=mouse). Plug it into the ST and
Boot up the computer. Try it out. All should be OK. If the
pointer movement is not correct, then a connection was not properly
installed. Pull everything apart and recheck.
You should now have a functioning track-mouse (or whatever you want to
call it). I derived these plans from some I saw on the net for making
the Atari trackball work on the Commodore Amiga. I have also seen
plans for making the trackball work on the ST, but the joystick
functioning was messed up.
If you have any problems/questions don't hesitate to send me a note at:
BGB100@PSUVM.BITNET
No guarantees on a quick reply (final exams and holiday break coming up
in a few weeks). Also, I must include the standard disclaimer. I have
built one of these and will be making another for a friend soon. I
have experience in working with Atari computers and electronics. If
you are not sure of yourself, ask someone you know for help. I don't
mean to discourage anyone from trying, but I cannot take responsibility
for anyone else's mistakes. If I have made an error in these plans,
I appologise. If you find a critical mistake, please let me know.
With all of that said, Good luck and happy trackballing!
Bruce Blanar
-------
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
__ __ __ Bruce Blanar |"Everybody need a mood lifter,
|__) | _ |__) Penn State University | Everybody need reverse polarity."
|__).|__|.|__). BGB100@PSUVM.bitnet | -Rush
voice: (814)862-8036 |
Article 19432 of comp.sys.atari.st:
Path: esunix!uplherc!hellgate.utah.edu!cs.utexas.edu!samsung!brutus.cs.uiuc.edu!psuvax1!psuvm!bgb100
From: BGB100@PSUVM.BITNET (Bruce Blanar)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.atari.st
Subject: Commodore Amiga mouse->ST
Message-ID: <89331.213325BGB100@PSUVM.BITNET>
Date: 28 Nov 89 02:33:25 GMT
Organization: Penn State University
Lines: 48
Below is a decription of the mod need to be made to a Commodore Amiga mouse
to get the mouse to work on an Atari ST. The Amiga mouse offers a faster
(slightly) tracking rate and two very comfortable buttons to use. The
mod is easy to do and provides a very nice mouse. Enjoy!
Commodore Amiga mouse -------> Atari ST mouse
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is the mod for a Commodore Amiga mouse conversion to ST mouse. No
big deal about the difficulty of the conversion, but still be careful
about what you do. I have included the original wire order by color so
that if you do mess something up, it is here. If the wires in your
mouse are different colors, I suggest writing down the color order before
starting in case you switch the wrong wires. Then you can go back to
START and begin again.
OK...here it is. All it involves is switching two wires on the connector
going to the mouse circuit board. I'll give the before and after views e
of the connector wires in order from back to front (of the mouse).
Before To use on an Atari ST
--------- -----------------------
Black Black
Blue Blue That's it!
Brown -----\ /-------- Yellow
Orange \/ Orange
White /\ White
Yellow -----/ \-------- Brown
Red Red
Grey Grey
Like I said, the mod is not difficult. The standard disclaimer applies.
I cannot take responsibility for any misfortunes that may befall you
because of your using these plans for the mod. I have performed this
mod and I know it works. I ripped the whole mouse apart trying to figure
it out before I found out I just had to switch two wires. If you need
help with the mod, ask someone you know who has the expertise to do it.
Good luck!
Bruce Blanar
-------
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
__ __ __ Bruce Blanar |"Everybody need a mood lifter,
|__) | _ |__) Penn State University | Everybody need reverse polarity."
|__).|__|.|__). BGB100@PSUVM.bitnet | -Rush
voice: (814)862-8036 |
============================================================================
And yet one more hack, you can't say there's a lack of information on
this subject! (BSG 3-3-91)
============================================================================
Path: javelin.es.com!orca.dsd.es.com!uunet!cbmvax!raible
From: raible@cbmvax.commodore.com (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga
Subject: Yet another Atari TRAK-BALL hack
Message-ID: <15998@cbmvax.commodore.com>
Date: 21 Nov 90 02:44:25 GMT
Reply-To: raible@cbmvax.UUCP (Bob Raible - LSI Design)
Organization: Commodore Technology, West Chester, PA
Lines: 71
The following are directions for converting the Atari trakball that has
no testpoints and no socketed IC's as previously described. The device
in question is black and roughly rectangular and is labelled across the
top"ATARI TRAK-BALL". In the rear there is a cutout which contains
a JS/TB (joystick/trakball) toggle switch, and the strain relief for the
cord. On the bottom are 4 rubber feet which conceal recessed screws.
Also, there is a paper label which on mine reads "KM483" and below this
"8". Below this label is stamped "MADE IN USA". On the top left and top
right of the top surface are two black fire buttons shaped liked
truncated triangles.
Inside, there lies a green PCB with bottom facing up towards you. Across
the top of the PCB are the cable connections, which I'll label PAD#1
thru pad#7 going from left to right. Also on left side of PCB are 2
IC's(go ahead and peek at other side,I don't mind). Topmost IC I'll
label IC#1 (16 pins) and bottom IC I'll label IC#2(14 pins). Below pads
4 and 6(labelled by atari "brown" and "blue" respectively), there are 2
thru-holes occupied on the top side of PCB by a bare wire jumper. I'll
label these thru holes TH#1 and TH#2 respectively. Directly below TH#2
is TH#3 which is connected to pad#5("violet").
First decide if second mouse fire button is desired. If not, then
existing cable is sufficient. Otherwise Amiga mouse must be
cannibalized, or joystick extension cable obtained from Radio Shack.
I'll assume you want to hook up the second fire button(look out Battle
Squadron).
Ok, here goes:
1) Remove jumper wire between TH#1 and TH#2(separates 2 fire
buttons).
2) Add 4.7K resistor(yellow-purple-red to you software types,100
squares of p-diffusion to fellow chip designers) between TH#2
and TH#3.
3) Connect port pin #1 to IC#1,pin #6.
Connect port pin #2 to IC#1,pin #10.
Connect port pin #3 to IC#2,pin #11.
Connect port pin #4 to IC#2,pin #3.
This serves to hook up mouse vertical and horizontal, and
their quadratures(in that order).
4) Port pin #5 is a no-connect, unless you want to kludge in a
middle mouse button(let's not get carried away).
5) Connect port pin #6 to TH#1. This is the "hot" lead to the
left mouse button.
6) Connect port pin #7 to pad #5("violet"). This hooks up +5V.
7) Connect port pin #8 to pad #7("gray"). This hooks up GROUND.
8) Connect port pin #9 to pad #6("blue"). THis hooks up right
mouse button.
Congratulations, assuming Murphy slept while you worked you now have a
genuine bargain in your hands. BTW the position of the JS/TB switch is
immaterial, we tap into the mouse signals upstream of that particular
circuitry. Enjoy!
PS: If you weren't successful then I can be reached at:
raible@cbmvax.commodore.com(at least I think that's my address).
Big Disclaimer: plugging such a contraption into ones Amiga could blow
the +5V fuse or an 8520 CIA. So please be careful. This a home-brew hack
and not a CBM sponsored project. These instructions are merely my
recollection of the steps I took for informational purposes only. Whew,
I don't know about you, but I feel a whole lot better for having said
this.
Good luck!
Path: javelin.es.com!orca.dsd.es.com!uunet!jarthur!usc!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!wuarchive!udel!mmdf
From: ccsoola@sacemnet.af.mil (CCSOOLA)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga
Subject: New Atari Trackball hack
Message-ID: <37165@nigel.ee.udel.edu>
Date: 25 Nov 90 03:23:52 GMT
Sender: mmdf@ee.udel.edu
Lines: 50
Quoting from message <15998@cbmvax.commodore.com>
by Bob Raible <raible@cbmvax.commodore.com>:
> The following are directions for converting the Atari trakball that has
> no testpoints and no socketed IC's as previously described.
[Other identification info omitted...]
> ...on left side of [the trackball's] PCB are 2 IC's.... Topmost IC I'll
> label IC#1 (16 pins)....
[Other instructions omitted...]
> 3) Connect port pin #1 to IC#1,pin #6.
> Connect port pin #2 to IC#1,pin #10.
> Connect port pin #3 to IC#2,pin #11.
> Connect port pin #4 to IC#2,pin #3.
>
> This serves to hook up mouse vertical and horizontal, and
> their quadratures(in that order).
[Further instructions omitted...]
I followed the instructions to the letter, and the trackball conversion
_mostly_ worked. I couldn't get any coherent movement in the horizontal axis,
though, so I had to fiddle with it. I wound up making one change to the above
instructions:
Instead of
"Connect port pin #2 to IC#1,pin #10."
try
"Connect port pin #2 to IC#1,pin #2."
When I did this, the x-axis worked. (I'm not sure just what I've hooked into;
I don't have pinouts for IC#1, but I traced signals with a logic probe until I
found something likely-looking. When I did, I tried the connection described
above, and it's hunky-dorey.)
>JS<
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| John L. Schuncke, Jr. | "I wanted to say something completely |
| CCSOOLA@SACEMNET.AF.MIL | mindless, but now I can't think of it." |
| Staff Sergeant, USAF +------------------------------------------+
| Command and Control Systems Center, Operating Location "A" |
| Offutt AFB, Nebraska |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Standard Meaningless Disclaimer: The opinions and policies expressed |
| in the above electronic communication are those of its author ONLY. |
| (As if anyone else would have them!) |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
===========================================================================
--
Blaine Gardner @ Evans & Sutherland 580 Arapeen Drive, SLC, Utah 84108
blgardne@javelin.sim.es.com or ...dsd.es.com!javelin!blgardne
DoD #0046 My other motorcycle is a Quadracer. BIX: blaine_g