ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill) (02/06/91)
Over the past three weeks my monitor has developed a habit of falling
asleep on me (screen goes pure black), and has to be hit sharply on the left
side to wake it up. :) The odd thing here is that I can't "knock it out" by
hitting it the same way, only bring it back to life. This would seem to rule
out a short, but brings up more questions. Any help much needed.
Tom
--
...............................
Why purchase a MAC when | Amiga...The computer for _ | IBM's greatest sales
the Amiga will run MAC | the creative mind! _ // | tool is ignorance on
software faster? |.......................\\//..| the consumer's part.mgemmel@cs.vu.nl (Martin Gemmel) (02/06/91)
In article <20912@know.pws.bull.com> ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill) writes: > Over the past three weeks my monitor has developed a habit of falling >asleep on me (screen goes pure black), and has to be hit sharply on the left >side to wake it up. > > Tom > >-- > ............................... >Why purchase a MAC when | Amiga...The computer for _ | IBM's greatest sales >the Amiga will run MAC | the creative mind! _ // | tool is ignorance on >software faster? |.......................\\//..| the consumer's part. Yes! Yes! That's exactly what's been happening the last few weeks to my monitor, too! When I turn it on, it remains on for about 5 minutes and then goes black. Then I hit it and it turns on again, for about 2 minutes, and so on. I would REALLY like some help on this (maybe more people have experienced this problem) before I hit my monitor too hard some day :). Maybe it's just a matter of fastening a screw or moving a wire away from the heat? Thanks in advance. Martin
n368bq@tamuts.tamu.edu (Raoul Rodriguez) (02/06/91)
here we go again.... I have been posting this through e-mail to those people who said that they had this problem, but, I'll put it on the net (sorry about the bandwidth) for everyone to see, especially those who are afarid to write to the net... :) O.K... The problem you are having with the 1084 Monitor, is that there is a cold (broken) solder joint on the motherboard of the monitor. This has the same effect as if the power had been cut. In the early stages, a good solid "whack" to the side of the monitor case will bring back the picture (it will sound as if you are just turning the monitor on (which in effect you are)). I had the same problem, at first, it was simply an annoyance, but it got progresivly worse and worse until I could not really do much computing. I decided to something about it. I took the case off (don't forget the screws on the back by the knobs and buttons (it is connected to the motherboard, and if you forget to take it off the case can be difficult to remove)). After digging around for a bit, I discovered that if I pressed on the metal shielding between the motherboard and the bottom of the plastic case the picture would come on (I did this with the power on, which is a serious no-no). I should mention that if you have never worked on a monitor before, you should find someone who has, because the monitor can build up a fairly sizeable charge and possibly even kill you if you touch the wrong stuff. After finding the "problem" I jerry-rigged it by placing some unused disks between the case and the metal shielding to press the shielding into the motherboard to complete the broken connection. But this is merely a temporary fix, after a few months, it will start up again, but it will be much harder to fix. After I got back home (I fixed it while I was at school), I found out that my local C= dealer wouldn't fix it, they would only do a complete motherboard change ($180). I decided to seek advice else where, a friend of mine knew about monitors, and he and I (more he than I) fixed the problem, and this is how it is done... Take off the monitor case (as I said (wrote) before, remeber the screws on the back near the RCA style jacks), and after disconnecting the motherboard from the picture tube (remeber what wires went where) solder off the metal shielding on the bottom of the motherboard. Visually inspect the solder joints to see if you can find the broken solder joint(s). You should find the general area before hand by pressing on the metal shielding in different locatins until the picture comes back on (again, this has a large element of danger!). You can also find the broken joint by torquing the board, and listining for the cracks (only someone who KNOWS what they are doing should attempt this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!), and after locating the broken joints, re-solder them. And put the case back together, and you are done. Well, don't forget to test it first... Another note here, don't mess with any of the dials and knobs inside the monitor case, these are the focus and other sensitive controls put out of the way of prying fingers for a reason (they are a pain to get back right (trust me)). If you need any further help, lemme know, and once again, the monitor can build up quite a charge that lasts for weeks after the monitor is turned off, find an experienced person to help (do it for) you. Hope this helps... Raoul "My 500 Has a Detachable Keyboard" Rodriguez n368bq@tamuts.tamu.edu Standard Disclaimers Apply (Within)
erd@giza.cis.ohio-state.edu (Ethan R Dicks) (02/07/91)
In article <20912@know.pws.bull.com> ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill) writes: > Over the past three weeks my monitor has developed a habit of falling >asleep on me (screen goes pure black), and has to be hit sharply on the left >side to wake it up. :) The odd thing here is that I can't "knock it out" by >hitting it the same way, only bring it back to life. This would seem to rule >out a short, but brings up more questions. Any help much needed. My 2002 exhibits the same symptoms. In addition, the power LED grows dim when the screen is black. Also, turning the monitor off and on does not always (but does sometimes) cure the problem. Finally, due to the lack of 15kHz whine, I suspect that the high voltage circuit is failing in some way. Any tips? Is this related to the popping problem of C-A monitors? Will doping the corona wire and grounding the badly-placed heat sink cure this behaviour? Thanks -ethan -- Ethan R. Dicks | ###### This signifies that the poster is a member in Software Results Corp| ## good sitting of Inertia House: Bodies at rest. 940 Freeway Drive N. | ## Columbus OH 43229 | ###### "You get it, you're closer."
dac@prolix.ccadfa.oz.au (Andrew Clayton) (02/07/91)
In article <8973@star.cs.vu.nl>, Martin Gemmel writes: > In article <20912@know.pws.bull.com> ai065@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Hill) writes: > > Over the past three weeks my monitor has developed a habit of falling > >asleep on me (screen goes pure black), and has to be hit sharply on the left > >side to wake it up. > > > > Tom > > > >-- > > ............................... > >Why purchase a MAC when | Amiga...The computer for _ | IBM's greatest sales > >the Amiga will run MAC | the creative mind! _ // | tool is ignorance on > >software faster? |.......................\\//..| the consumer's part. > > Yes! Yes! That's exactly what's been happening the last few weeks to my > monitor, too! When I turn it on, it remains on for about 5 minutes and > then goes black. Then I hit it and it turns on again, for about 2 minutes, > and so on. > I would REALLY like some help on this (maybe more people have experienced > this problem) before I hit my monitor too hard some day :). > Maybe it's just a matter of fastening a screw or moving a wire away from the > heat? Lots and lots and LOTS of people have had this problem. Even me. It's been documented on the net a whole skew of times, along with the fix. Here's my attempt at describing the fix. Problem: ~~~~~~~~ The 1081/1084 series of monitors decides to go out for lunch. At first, it merely displays a blank screen, accompanied with a small 'zzt' noise. A light tap on the side of the monitor will bring it back to life. The next day, the same thing happens. Twice. The day after, you start getting it happen in quarter hour intervals, and might have to start thumping the case a little harder. Eventually the monitor doesn't work at all. The cause of the problem: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ One or more of the solder joints around the large transformer on the circuit board has become cracked. As the unit heats up, the tolerance become too fine, and not enough 'oomph' gets through the wires to drive the screen, and the monitor 'shuts down'. The fix: ~~~~~~~~ You have to take your monitor apart, and apply a soldering iron to the affected joint. Finding WHERE is a problem. Here's a (crude) diagram. _______________________ / \ | _____________________ | <--- 1081/1084 as seen from above |[ *** || ] | Transformer---->*** || ] | with lead |[ *** || <------------ Printed Circuit board under going to (X) |[ _/ \_ ] | the cathode ray tube. on the tube. |[ _/ \_ ] | |[ _/ \_ ] | |[_/ (X) <---------------- Cathode ray tube |/__________________\ ] | \ ____________________ _/ Screen Face Alright. Now, remember this is looking at the monitor FROM ABOVE. The all of the solder connections are UNDERNEATH the circuit board. In my case, it was one of the wires had come very loose. Others have complained that a few wires were loose. Warning: Don't try this without unplugging the monitor from the power supply. Be careful, because the tube can hold a HUGE electric charge for many hours or even days. When opening the case, you must be careful not to rip the Speaker Wire off. You need to remove the little white plastic clip from the circuit board before you can remove the cover completely. You have to slide the circuit board out (about half way) in order to get access to the underneath. This involved removing some of the white plastic connected wires from the circuit board. Remember which way around the plugs are oriented! How I solved the problem was reheating all of the larger solder spots to make the solder flow, and reseal any 'cracks' or bad joints. I poked at the solder around one particular wire, and the wire MOVED, when I soldered this, I figured it must have been the problem. I put it all back together again, and never again had the problem. In the same week that I had it, some six other people around Australia reported experiencing the same problem, at the same time. :-/ If any of this sounds flakey, get your monitor to a Mr Fixit. This description may help him find the problem. Then again, he might think that you're a complete loony for even reading it. Disclaimer: This operation will void your warranty. I did it myself, instrad of taking it to a qualifed person, because I'm a cheapskate. I take no responsibility for any actions you make in regard to pulling your monitor apart, and sticking your tongue on various electronic components 'just to see what happens'. :-) Dac -- _l _ _ // Andrew Clayton. Canberra, Australia. I Post . (_](_l(_ \X/ ccadfa.cc.adfa.oz.au!prolix!dac@munnari.OZ.AU . . I am. --------------Phone +61 6 285 2537 (+10GMT) // I cannot currently send email.
vampire@aragon.gtc.de (Kai Kapp) (02/08/91)
I also had this problem some time ago. The solution is VERY easy. Just open your monitor at the back and then you have to check the solderings. The transformator of the 1084 has souch a deep kind of grouching, which loosens sometimes the solderings. All you have to do is take an soldering-iron and just solder all the stuff again until it works. It is at the right side the plate .... Just try it and ask me again if you want to have describe it better. Ok ... much luck ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |This is REALLY written by | / | / | | |/ |/ | | |\ a i |\ a p p From STUTTGART | | | \ | \ | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
erk@americ.UUCP (Erick Parsons) (10/14/91)
>In article <8179@aragon.gtc.de> vampire@aragon.gtc.de (Kai Kapp) writes: >I also had this problem some time ago. The solution is VERY easy. >Just open your monitor at the back and then you have to check the solderings. >The transformator of the 1084 has souch a deep kind of grouching, which >loosens sometimes the solderings. >All you have to do is take an soldering-iron and just solder all the stuff >again until it works. >It is at the right side the plate .... | | \ | | / \ \ ___ / / > \ /o o\ / >Ok ... much luck ---- | < | ----- > / \ O / \ /\ __| |__ \ \ Don't forget: ___ / \ / / | \-+-+-/ /| |\ V / | \ __/ / | | \ / |1084_|___/ | | __|______\__ | | | High | | | | Voltage | | | | | EVEN | | | | | When Set | | | | | is | | | | |___Unplugged_|_/__|__\_ -- -------------------------------------------------//------------------------- (ames att sun)!pacbell! ----> sactoh0!pacengr!americ!erk Multitasking, ucbvax!ucdavis!csusac! --/ // Never leave uunet!msac! -/ Erick Parsons \Sacramento Ca Home Without it --------------------------------------------\X/----------------------------- Please Don't Wait...