pratt@paul.rutgers.edu (Lorien Y. Pratt) (05/29/90)
Trip report to the Everglades and Florida Keys
==or-- how to see 165 species in 8 days.
This file contains a fairly detailed travel log of a trip that we took this
spring to the Everglades, then to Key Largo, then to Big Pine Key. We did
lots of both bird- and fish-watching and did our first scuba diving since we
were certified (NAUI) last fall. This information should be of interest to
birders and fishers (?) alike who are interested in doing the same kind of
trip that we did.
Part 5: Diving with Underseas, Inc., on Big Pine Key, and return to New
Jersey, 4/26/90 - 4/30/90
Thursday, April 26, 1990
We are staying at the Big Pine Resort, across the road from the Underseas,
Inc. dive shop. The room is $98/night for an efficiency with three people
staying in it. ``Efficiency'' means that there is a small refrigerator,
a range (two heating coils) which we never use, and a sink which is the same
as in the other rooms and doubles as a dish sink and a bathroom sink. The
rooms are a little smelly and run-down. We have a little trouble explaining
to the proprietor that we'd like our friends' keys, since they'll be arriving
after midnight, when the office will be closed. We get our point across after
a few tries, though. Our friends from New Jersey arrive around midnight, and we
hang out for a while talking about what a great day of diving we hope to have
tomorrow.
Friday, April 27, 1990
Unfortunately, the seas are very high today, and Underseas tells us that they
aren't taking out their dive boat. This is disappointing, as well as ominous
for our friends who have come to Florida for the weekend just to dive! We
decide to go snorkeling, so after some intense pool-lounging (it's 3' deep,
but one end says 4'), we head north up Route 1 with our snorkel gear and
wetsuits. There are spots all along this road that we remember from yesterday
looked pretty good for snorkeling, and since the water is sheltered, we expect
that we shouldn't have the same trouble here as we might out in Looe Key
Sanctuary, where were to have dived.
We pull into a parking lot for a boat launch area, and don our wetsuits
and snorkeling gear on the grass. We paddle into the bayside in a
little group, Hal dragging a flag which we have rented from Underseas,
and which we are told is required for snorkelers to carry. The water
is about 3' deep, ranging to more like 6', but the visibility is so
bad, we can't see the bottom when it gets deep. When we can see the
bottom, it's mostly grass covered with detritus and sand. We snorkel
south and let the strong current carry us under the bridge to the ocean
side. Here, we swim out of the current, and along some rocks which
form the bridge's foundation. There are a lot of fish here, mostly
grunts, but a few (cocoa?) damsels as well. Hal finds a big sea
urchin, which is the only one we will see on this trip. We have fun
surface diving and chasing fish. We regret not bringing our knives, as
this place looks like monofilament country, but fortunately nobody is
snagged.
We all have dinner at the Baltimore Oyster House, across the street
from our motel. The Rock Shrimp are out of this world, dipped in
butter garlic sauce! We try the Conch Fritters (I guess a ``must''
around here -- not for those who don't like breaded food though).
Someone else has snapper and the Dolfin, all of which are very good.
Everyone comes back to our room for Key Lime Pie we bought at the
Oyster House the previous night; we talk about the possibility of
diving the next day and cross our fingers. Unfortunately, our friend
Rick gets sick from the food -- probably due to a shellfish allergy,
which he's had trouble with before, so he won't be going out tomorrow
no matter what.
Saturday, April 28, 1990
This morning, Underseas is once again not going out because of high
seas. They have let us keep the gear that we rented the previous
morning overnight. In general, these people were very cooperative and
reasonable -- we kept the same gear, not having to re-rent it, until
our diving was done completely. They also let us postpone paying for
the whole thing until a time that was convenient for us (i.e. the shop
wasn't crowded!). They rent fairly new Sea Quest BC's, but many of
their regulators don't have depth gauges. None have bottom timers, and
I feel fortunate that I have a watch (Wilson Alarm Chronograph Lithium,
from KMart, $9, and it lasted through the 60' dive before!) We wait
while they put depth gauges on one regulator so that we can make sure
that there is at least one in each buddy team.
We hang out by the pool. Our friend Randall works on his sunburn; I
sit in the shade, reading Paul Theroux and slathering on #15
sunscreen.
In the afternoon, we hear the word -- the boat will be going out! Not
forgetting our experience of the previous day, we all take dramamine
pills, sometimes more than one. It's unfortunate that this makes us
drowsy all day -- when you're not moving you have the tendency to want
to fall asleep. We drive about a mile south to the boat launch of the
``Margarita''. We arrive at 1:20 for a 1:30 departure, but the boat
doesn't leave until about 2:30. This is OK, as we have a chance to get
our gear ready and talk a bit. Randall has just bought a used Nikonos
camera, circa 1970, with flash bulbs that you carry underwater.
We arrive after a 35 minute ride at the Looe Key Marine Sanctuary.
Once again we are happy to hear an ecologically-minded talk by the dive
master about not touching the coral, or feeding the fish. To get off
of the Margarita, one has to stand on the back of the boat while one's
tank and BC are loaded onto your back. There is no way to just walk
off the boat with your gear on, as the boat has about a 2.5-foot high
lip. This takes just a bit of getting used to, but it's OK.
There is a line off the back of the boat (which is pitching a bit,
probably 2'-4' chop). John hangs on and waits for me while I jump in.
We seem to be the first people off the boat every time. I find myself
much more comfortable descending. We are diving as a buddy team of two
this time, and John keeps very close. The visibility is about 15',
which is not the best, but we are able to see a lot. The water is only
about 30' deep, and the coral runs in what's called a ``spur and
groove'' system. This means that you can wall dive in ``canyons'',
with one wall on either side of you. This way you can see twice as
many fish! We see lots of great fish (see below) and end up having a
wonderful time.
Sunday, April 29, 1990
The seas today are low, and we decide to try to put in a full day of
diving -- four dives in two trips! We pack a picnic lunch and head to
the Margarita, which is once again running on ``Keys time'' and is
pretty crowded. We eventually head out to Looe Key, and today the
visibility is much better, about 30'! We see an incredible assortment
of fish, and I find that diving in only 35' of water, max, is very
relaxing, since I can see the surface from wherever I am. Highlights
of the day are a seven foot long Tarpon, a school of midnight
parrotfish, each a good two feet long, swimming with one grouper. We
see a rock with about six spiny lobsters looking out from underneath.
Lots of barracuda, which I have learned not to worry about, and
hundreds of other fish!
Diving feels like being five years old and experiencing the world for
the first time. Every object underwater is novel and new. The fish
each have personalities and the corals are colorful and different.
This diving has been one of the most incredible experiences of my life,
which if I never repeat (although I hope to!) I will always remember.
I think that it defies words -- pictures are better, but being there is
different from both.
Monday, April 30, 1990
Today we drag ourselves out of bed after an exhausted sleep and head back up
the Keys Highway. The drive and flight are uneventful (except for a 60-minute
stint sitting on the tarmac while thunderstorms block flight paths to New
Jersey), and we're home in bed by dinner time.
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L. Y. Pratt Computer Science Department
pratt@paul.rutgers.edu Rutgers University
Hill Center
(201) 932-4634 New Brunswick, NJ 08903, USA