krueger@mdcbbs.com (10/26/89)
I'm looking for some assistance in upgrading the memory on my 3yr old MacPlus. What is the best way to "crack" the case? Do I really need to get one of those special tools to open it up? What are the chips/simms I need/can get? Can I use 1meg or 256k chips? I'm probably going to get the chips from The Chip Merchant, since many netters recommend them. By the way, I'm thinking about upgrading to either 2 or 3meg depending on what my beastie can handle. Please send either e-mail or followups to this posting. THANKS -- +------------------------------+-----------------------------------------+ | Ken Krueger | Voice: (714) 952-6151 | | McDonnell Douglas M&E | | | Internal Systems Support | Internet: krueger@mdcbbs.com | | 5701 Katella Avenue | UUCP: uunet!mdcbbs!krueger | | Cypress, CA 90630-5099 | PSI: PSI%31060099980019::KRUEGER | +------------------------------+-----------------------------------------+
seymour@milton.acs.washington.edu (Richard Seymour) (10/28/89)
In article <559.254715ae@mdcbbs.com> krueger@mdcbbs.com writes: >What is the best way to "crack" the case? Do I really need to get one of >those special tools to open it up? What are the chips/simms I need/can get? i'm sorry i can't answer the "how to add memory" for that MAC, but i CAN answer how to open it: Go to a hardware store and buy a Torx T-15 screwdriver-like object. Here in Seattle the local chains carry Korean and Taiwan-made versions for $2.50 (really!). The problem is that a Mac requires a ten-inch long shank. So, you go find (if you're lucky) someone with a power cutoff wheel. If not, you get a hacksaw and cut the shank in half lengthwise. Go find a tube (copper gas line, steel, iron) whose inside diameter is a tight fit over the shank end. (you may want to file the cut faces to make it easier to cram into the tube). Attaching the whole mess (handle-with-shank into tube over shank-with-bit) together can be done in a variety of ways. I usually grind a notch into each shank end, push them into the tube (did i mention the tube should be about 8 inches long?) and then crimp the tube into the notches with a bolt-cutting visegrip jaw. Friends have used epoxy, others have brazed it (i don't like to play with torches). You should now have a ten-inch shanked Torx-type size T-15 tool! To split the case: lay the MAC on its face. Use your shiny new tools to remove all four screws (two under the handle, two on the lower rear). Now first try just lifting the back up from everything else. If you're very lucky, it'll do it and you're done! If you have normal luck, it won't. Try prodding around the seam, pushing the rear part of the case in a little to "work' it free. If you are not too picky about final appearence, you can pry the two pieces apart with a knife blade (careful!). Or a thin steel shim or steel ruler. By going around the case many times, prying apart "just a hair" as you go, you can do a very neat (no visible damage) job without a fancy tool. Just take time and patience. Remeber you're paying yourself back for not paying someone else to add the memory. (many memory sellers in this area will install for free, even those with the lowest memory prices... be sure to ask in your area!) good luck -- dick
wasilko@netcom.UUCP (Jeff Wasilko) (10/28/89)
In article <595@milton.acs.washington.edu> seymour@milton.acs.washington.edu (Richard Seymour) writes: >In article <559.254715ae@mdcbbs.com> krueger@mdcbbs.com writes: >>What is the best way to "crack" the case? Do I really need to get one of >>those special tools to open it up? What are the chips/simms I need/can get? > >i'm sorry i can't answer the "how to add memory" for that MAC, >but i CAN answer how to open it: >Go to a hardware store and buy a Torx T-15 screwdriver-like object. >Here in Seattle the local chains carry Korean and Taiwan-made versions >for $2.50 (really!). The problem is that a Mac requires a ten-inch long >shank. >[...] >To split the case: lay the MAC on its face. Use your shiny new tools >to remove all four screws (two under the handle, two on the lower rear). There is a fifth screw in the battery compartment that needs to be removed
mjkobb@mit-amt.MEDIA.MIT.EDU (Michael J Kobb) (10/30/89)
In article <595@milton.acs.washington.edu> seymour@milton.acs.washington.edu (Richard Seymour) writes: >To split the case: lay the MAC on its face. Use your shiny new tools >to remove all four screws (two under the handle, two on the lower rear). ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Ahem. There are FIVE screws. The fifth lives under the battery cover on the back. If you don't take it out, it'll be much more difficult to split the case :-) --Mike Disclaimer: Remember, opening the case voids Apple's extraordinary, one-of-a- kind in the industry 90-DAY-WARRANTY. Don't say I didn't warn you...
ngg@bridge2.ESD.3Com.COM (Norman Goodger) (10/31/89)
In article <904@mit-amt.MEDIA.MIT.EDU> mjkobb@media-lab.media.mit.edu (Michael J Kobb) writes: > >Ahem. There are FIVE screws. The fifth lives under the battery cover on >the back. If you don't take it out, it'll be much more difficult to split >the case :-) > The number of screws depends on whether its a SE or Plus..The Plus has Five, the SE has 4, as there is no batter case to contend with on the SE. if the unit in question was a Plus...this is true, there are 5 screws. -- Norm Goodger SysOp - MacInfo BBS @415-795-8862 3Com Corp. Co-SysOp FreeSoft RT - GEnie. Enterprise Systems Division (I disclaim anything and everything) UUCP: {3comvax,auspex,sun}!bridge2!ngg Internet: ngg@bridge2.ESD.3Com.COM
ericw@manta.NOSC.MIL (Eric Williams) (11/02/89)
-------- > From: krueger@mdcbbs.com > Message-ID: <559.254715ae@mdcbbs.com> > Date: 26 Oct 89 14:33:18 GMT > I'm looking for some assistance in upgrading the memory on a 3yr old MacPlus. > What is the best way to "crack" the case? Do I really need to get one of > those special tools to open it up? What are the chips/simms I need/can get? > Can I use 1meg or 256k chips? I'm probably going to get the chips from > The Chip Merchant, since many netters recommend them. By the way, I'm > thinking about upgrading to either 2 or 3meg depending on what my beastie > can handle. Please send either e-mail or followups to this posting. THANKS ------- Ken, Well I have upgraded the memories on several MacPlus's so I can give you the whole scoop. First, you need to open the case. That's the hard part. You'll need to get a torx wrench, but it will need to be a long one, since the screws on the top are quite deep. After you get the case cracked, you'll need to take out the logic board. To do this you'll need to to unplug the power and floppy drive connector cables. As you look at the board, with the IO ports being the edge close to you, you'll see four 256k SIMMS. If you want to upgrade, you'll need to get either two or four 1mb SIMMS. If you go with just two 1mb SIMMS, the SIMMS will need to be in the first bank, with 256k SIMMS in the second. After you've installed the SIMMS you'll need to cut a transistor, which is located in the upper left corner of the logic board. This transistor is labeled: 256K BIT MASK With this circut cut, the Mac will not be limited to use 256k SIMMS. Keep in mind that once this is cut, there is no going back. You won't be able to downgrade to just 256k SIMMS. And that's it. Opening the case is really the hard part. So you can upgrade to either 2.5mb, or 4mb. _________________________________________________________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Eric D. Williams Odds Against You? Computer Resource Center Need A Friend? ericw@nosc.mil Call the CRC! _________________________________________________________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
isr@rodan.acs.syr.edu ( ISR group account) (11/02/89)
The board appears as follows:
RAM SIZE
|----------------|
R8 | -XXXXXXX- |
| 256K BIT |
R9 | -XXXXXXX- |
|--- ONE ROW ----|
The "-XXXXXX-" are RESISTORS, not TRANSSISTORS.
The following configuration shows what should be installed:
Total Memory Simms1&2 Simms3&4 R8(256KBIT) R9(1Row)
512K 256k - 150ohm 150ohm
1Meg 256k 256k 150ohm -
2Meg 1MB - - 150ohm
2.5Meg 1MB 256k - -
4Meg 1MB 1MB - -
The resistors already there ARE 150ohms, i gave values so in case
you ever wanted to put one back, you know what to get from your
local electronics place. (but, if you don't know how to read a
resistor value, you probably don't want to solder on the board)
Mike Schechter
Computer Systems Engineer and VIP car-fixer
Institute for Sensory Research, Syracuse, NY
--
Mike Schechter, Institute for Sensory Research, Syracuse Univ.
InterNet: isr@rodan.syr.edu msschech@rodan.syr.edu Bitnet: SENSORY@SUNRISE seymour@milton.acs.washington.edu (Richard Seymour) (11/09/89)
As one of many re-posters pointed out: <from my original "how to crack your Mac":> >>To split the case: lay the MAC on its face. Use your shiny new tools >>to remove all four screws (two under the handle, two on the lower rear). > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > >Ahem. There are FIVE screws. The fifth lives under the battery cover on >the back. If you don't take it out, it'll be much more difficult to split >the case :-) > Sorry about that -- I usually do Mac SE's (4 screws, internal NiCad), and the one Mac Plus i did was in such a rush that i didn't remember the battery-screw (but, look -- you should THINK as you work, and just for safety's sake remove the battery to avoid damage due to accidental shorting of printed circuit traces while it's open) Maybe better instructions would be: Remove any Torx screws you can find. -- dick
snow@china.uu.net (John Snow) (11/11/89)
In article <1007@bridge2.ESD.3Com.COM> ngg@bridge2.3Com.com (Norman Goodger) writes: >In article <904@mit-amt.MEDIA.MIT.EDU> mjkobb@media-lab.media.mit.edu (Michael J Kobb) writes: >> >>Ahem. There are FIVE screws. The fifth lives under the battery cover on >>the back. If you don't take it out, it'll be much more difficult to split >>the case :-) >> > The number of screws depends on whether its a SE or Plus..The Plus has > Five, the SE has 4, as there is no batter case to contend with on the > SE. if the unit in question was a Plus...this is true, there are 5 screws. > Which leads into my problem. A couple of weeks ago when I powered on my machine (a SE w/ an internal 45 Meg Jasmine drive), the disk didn't come up. After waiting a few minutes I switched it off and back on and it came up fine, but the clock was reset to 0. The drive has been slow comming up since then and the clock is always reset. Could there be some kind of wierd connection between these problems? The Mac is less than a year old so I wouldn't expect the battery to be bad this soon, but anythings possible. If it is the battery, where is it, what kind is it, and what kind of gyrations will I have to go through to get another one? With my luck this is probably a 25 cent battery that I can only get through my friendly neighborhood Apple dealer with his nominal markup of $27.50 :-). Thanks, John -- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :: John Snow MDC | any opinions are purely accidental :: Denver, Colorado | and not the fault of the management ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
snow@china.uu.net (John Snow) (11/11/89)
In article <1007@bridge2.ESD.3Com.COM> ngg@bridge2.3Com.com (Norman Goodger) writes: >In article <904@mit-amt.MEDIA.MIT.EDU> mjkobb@media-lab.media.mit.edu (Michael J Kobb) writes: >> >>Ahem. There are FIVE screws. The fifth lives under the battery cover on >>the back. If you don't take it out, it'll be much more difficult to split >>the case :-) >> > The number of screws depends on whether its a SE or Plus..The Plus has > Five, the SE has 4, as there is no batter case to contend with on the > SE. if the unit in question was a Plus...this is true, there are 5 screws. Which leads into my problem. A couple of weeks ago when I powered on my machine (a SE w/ an internal 45 Meg Jasmine drive), the disk didn't come up. After waiting a few minutes I switched it off and back on and it came up fine, but the clock was reset to 0. The drive has been slow comming up since then and the clock is always reset. Could there be some kind of wierd connection between these problems? The Mac is less than a year old so I wouldn't expect the battery to be bad this soon, but anythings possible. If it is the battery, where is it, what kind is it, and what kind of gyrations will I have to go through to get another one? With my luck this is probably a 25 cent battery that I can only get through my friendly neighborhood Apple dealer with his nominal markup of $27.50 :-). Thanks, John -- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :: John Snow MDC | any opinions are purely accidental :: Denver, Colorado | and not the fault of the management ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
snow@china.uu.net (John Snow) (11/11/89)
In article <1007@bridge2.ESD.3Com.COM> ngg@bridge2.3Com.com (Norman Goodger) writes: >In article <904@mit-amt.MEDIA.MIT.EDU> mjkobb@media-lab.media.mit.edu (Michael J Kobb) writes: >> >>Ahem. There are FIVE screws. The fifth lives under the battery cover on >>the back. If you don't take it out, it'll be much more difficult to split >>the case :-) >> > The number of screws depends on whether its a SE or Plus..The Plus has > Five, the SE has 4, as there is no batter case to contend with on the > SE. if the unit in question was a Plus...this is true, there are 5 screws. Which leads into my problem. A couple of weeks ago when I powered on my machine (a SE w/ an internal 45 Meg Jasmine drive), the disk didn't come up. After waiting a few minutes I switched it off and back on and it came up fine, but the clock was reset to 0. The drive has been slow comming up since then and the clock is always reset. Could there be some kind of wierd connection between these problems? The Mac is less than a year old so I wouldn't expect the battery to be bad this soon, but anythings possible. If it is the battery, where is it, what kind is it, and what kind of gyrations will I have to go through to get another one? With my luck this is probably a 25 cent battery that I can only get through my friendly neighborhood Apple dealer with his nominal markup of $27.50 :-). Thanks, John -- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :: John Snow MDC | any opinions are purely accidental :: Denver, Colorado | and not the fault of the management ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
mjkobb@mit-amt.MEDIA.MIT.EDU (Michael J Kobb) (11/12/89)
In article <163@salt.UUCP> snow@salt.UUCP (John Snow) writes:
[...]
[Trouble with a Mac SE]
:If it is the battery, where is it, what kind is it, and what kind of
:gyrations will I have to go through to get another one? With my luck
:this is probably a 25 cent battery that I can only get through my
:friendly neighborhood Apple dealer with his nominal markup of $27.50
::-).
I can't say whether the problems you're having are with the battery, or even
what kind of battery it is. I can tell you WHERE it is: it's on the mother-
board. It may be soldered, I don't remember.
--Mike