rjacks@austlcm.sps.mot.com (rodney jacks/vlk9) (10/02/90)
I recently broke down an bought an additional 4Mb of ram for my SE30. I purchased the memory from the Chip Merchant which has been discussed recently on the net. 4 Mb of ram for $163.80 including shipping was a good deal. The cheapest I've found 4Mb of RAM in Austin is $255 (street prices). I saved $91. This leaves me with one problem however, what is the best procedure for installing them. The SIMMs were shipped with no instructions whatsoever. The Chip Merchant is *DEFINITELY* a no frills operation! The box the memory was shipped in was certainly large enough to cram some instruction in but that is another thread. While I do have hardware experience, what I would like to know is: Does anyone have a simple procedure for installing them? Are there any tricks to know? Any warnings? Do I have to pull the motherboard and if so how is it held in place? Do I have to move the memory (1MB) which is already installed to different sockets? Any software configuration? Thanks in Advance -Rodney *********************************************************** ** Rodney Jacks ** ** Motorola Inc, Austin, Texas ** ** E-mail: rjacks@austlcm.sps.mot.com ** ** Time is just nature's way of keeping everything from ** ** happening all at once. ** ***********************************************************
clarson@ux.acs.umn.edu (Chaz Larson) (10/04/90)
1. Turn off the mac and let it sit for a spell.
2. Remove all four case screws [two down by the mouse/disk/serial ports,
two inside the handle; you will need a long-shafted Torx T-15 driver]
3. After pulling the back off the Mac, take a look at the top of the
motherboard and find the big molex-type connector that feeds power
to the motherboard. Disconnect this connector. Disconnect the HD
cable and floppy cable at this time as well.
4. The motherboard sort of slides out a little bit then tilts out towards
the bottom. It's a lot harder to explain than it is to see. Take a
look at the notches along one edge of the motherboard and the matching
notches on the metal frame ond you'll figure it out.
5. Now, you will see eight SIMM sockets near the front of the board. The
SIMMs are latched in at either end. Examine these latches and after
you've figured out how they work, use a penknife blade or something
similar to release the SIMMs.
6. Move the four SIMMs that are presently in place into the four slots
that are presently empty.
7. Put your four new SIMMs into the newly-empty sockets.
8. Now start at Step 4 and work backwards to put everything back together.
Cautions:
When opening the back of the Mac, be advised that the picture tube holds a
charge of sufficient voltage to injure or kill you. Stay away from it.
If you have the appropriate tools, that charge can be dissipated, but I've
upgraded several machines without doing so; I take my time and stay away from
the tube. Unplugging the Mac several hours before you begin this procedure is
a fine idea, as well.
Take care not to force anything. Once you figure out how the various sockets
and connectors fit together, everything comes apart fairly easily. The molex
connector on the motherboard is an exception. It always seems tough to undo.
When removing the SIMMs, take care not to scratch or chip the motherboard if
you're using a penknife or something. If you have stronger nails than mine,
you may be able to use them instead.
That should be it. With the SE/30 and above, there is no need to clip
resistors or move jumpers to effect the memory change, as there is on Plus or
SE machines.
chaz
--
--
"I Am The Reincarnation of Abraham Lincoln", Insists Prince.
-spew
clarson@ux.acs.umn.edu AOL:Crowboneanderson@Apple.COM (Clark Anderson) (10/04/90)
From: clarson@ux.acs.umn.edu (Chaz Larson): >Take care not to force anything. Once you figure out how the various sockets >and connectors fit together, everything comes apart fairly easily. The molex >connector on the motherboard is an exception. It always seems tough to undo. The power connector comes off fairly easily. It's just that it's a locking connector. On the side of the connector closest to the front of the machine, there is a little locking tab. Squeeze it as you pull up on the connector, and it should slide out with no resistance. --clark ----------------------------------------------------------- Clark Anderson InterNet: anderson@apple.com Apple Computer, Inc AppleLink: C.ANDERSON BellNet: 408-974-4593 "I speak only for myself, much to my employer's relief..." -----------------------------------------------------------
clarson@ux.acs.umn.edu (Chaz Larson) (10/04/90)
In article <45347@apple.Apple.COM> anderson@Apple.COM (Clark Anderson) writes: >From: clarson@ux.acs.umn.edu (Chaz Larson): >>Take care not to force anything. Once you figure out how the various sockets >>and connectors fit together, everything comes apart fairly easily. The molex >>connector on the motherboard is an exception. It always seems tough to undo. > >The power connector comes off fairly easily. It's just that it's a >locking connector. >On the side of the connector closest to the front of the machine, there >is a little locking tab. Squeeze it as you pull up on the connector, >and it should slide out with no resistance. I guess the difficulty I was referring to is getting your fingers in there to disconnect the little latch. True, once unlatched it slides right off. Then again, I may have been thinking of the power connector on the Plus, which can be a real bear to undo. It "latches" along it's entire length. chaz -- -- "I Am The Reincarnation of Abraham Lincoln", Insists Prince. -spew clarson@ux.acs.umn.edu AOL:Crowbone
stevel@eleazar.dartmouth.edu (Steve Ligett) (10/08/90)
In article <45347@apple.Apple.COM> anderson@Apple.COM (Clark Anderson) writes: >From: clarson@ux.acs.umn.edu (Chaz Larson): >>... The molex >>connector on the motherboard is an exception. It always seems tough to undo. > >The power connector comes off fairly easily. It's just that it's a >locking connector. >On the side of the connector closest to the front of the machine, there >is a little locking tab. Squeeze it as you pull up on the connector, >and it should slide out with no resistance. I'm sorry, I must disagree. It not only seems tough, but is tough to undo. When removing the power cable, I use one finger of my left hand to press the latch, and use my right hand to pull the cable straight out. (I'm left handed; do it any way you want.) Be sure to wear your small fingers. I just tried mating and unmating a power supply connector to an SE logic board out in the open on a workbench. For the last 2 or 3 millimeters there is resistance -- it's not a zero insertion force connector. Molex specs the Mini Fit Jr. connectors at up to 0.7 kg. per circuit of mating force, and a minimum of 0.05 kg. per circuit for unmating. If you're having trouble removing the power supply connector, you may want to take the little circuit board off the crt. That will give you a little more room to work, and you're less likely to snap the neck of the crt. (Be sure to put it all back together when you're done!) -- steve.ligett@dartmouth.edu or ...!dartvax!steve.ligett