robert1 (09/06/82)
Well, the votes are in and here are the collected suggestions of well-wishing netnews members on how to help your favorite auto to survive the winter, given the fact that surface [RUST] wounds may already be apparent from previous seasonal bouts with the Rust Monster. Good Luck and Happy Sledding!!! Robert Duncan Bell Labs, Chicago ihuxx!robert1 P.S. No one suggested a spell of healing, but many reccomended a change of armor to combat the Rust Monster. ---------- COLLECTED SUGGESTIONS: ---------- 1. Wash the hell out of your car(best advice) 2. Be cautious of import/export metal in the bodies of the car you buy. (Salt water does wonders to untreated metals). 3. Get quotes from salesmen on # of primer/paint coats 4. Sell your car before it enters rust-haven. (My personal favorite, but somehow unfulfilling - Editor) ---------- Whatever you do, do it now!! Don't wait until next year or you'll have holes, which are much harder to deal with. You've got to sand the rust out all the way to bare metal and repaint it. The "Dupla-color" paints that you can buy in any parts store are a really good match. Be sure to use a good primer also (do not use rust-o-leum for this type of work. ---------- There is a rust stop (over the counter) product by Dupont. It is available at good auto stores( (what is good???, those that have the product) ---------- Fortunately, the rust I had was fairly shallow, and I was able to sand down the rust spots, and repaint them ( with rust resistant primer and 2 stage paint). I have also seen a product that supposedly combines with minor rust to form a protective coating at J. C. Pennys called Trustan (??, obviously for rusting of inner body parts). If you are able to get completely rid of your present rust, get your car professionally rust proofed by a dealer ( proficient ones are difficult to find). Also make sure that the fender and roof seals are fully caulked with a high quality silicon calk ( prevents rust from inside). ---------- Oh, lastly, I've taken to driving my good car very little in inclement weather, and washing it as often as possible in the winter (i.e. whenever it is above 0 degrees Celsius. ---------- My solution is to slop used gear oil on the rust spots. Looks ugly, but works. Re-treating not often needed (I never wash my car). A good wax job applied in the fall will help the un affected areas. Basically, put oil every where you can. Use gear oil, it is stickier an creeps into smaller holes. It is an order of magnituded better than motor oil. ---------- The action that you may take against rust depends on how it is rusting. If it is surface rust (a piece of paint chipped of and the exposed metal is starting to rust) you should be able to sand all the rust off, fill the depressed area, prime and paint the patch with good results. This will work as long as the metal has not perforated. If the metal has rusted through, the fix is more difficult. You have to cut out the rusted area, patch the hole (fiberglass kit for small and medium small holes, sheet metal riveted or welded on for larger areas), fill the depressed area that results, prime and paint. ----------EOF----------