[net.auto] Car will not start in rain

jah (03/22/83)

I recently bought a 1979 Honda Accord.  The car runs just fine, except in the rain,
when it won't start!  This is obviously a problem, especially as I live in
Providence RI, where it rains VERY often.
  ANy ideas on cause?
  Any suggestions for fix?
  Any suggstions for starting it in the rain???
 -Jim Hendler
p.s. car is a standard.

cascio (03/22/83)

  ANy ideas on cause?
	Hard starting in wet weather is usually due to a leak somewhere in the
	high voltage wiring or devices (viz; coil, distributor cap, plug
	wires). Age will cause insulation to become brittle.  When moisture,
	usually from condensation, gets on the parts, the very high voltages
	will leak out through the cracks, and travel along the wet surfaces to
	find ground somewhere.

  Any suggestions for fix?
	A sharp eyed mechanic can sometimes see the leakage (a blue spark) and
	replace the offending part. Most times, though, its a matter of
	replacing stuff until the problem goes away. The usual fix is to do
	all the high voltage wiring first, since it's usually cracked
	insulation that's the culprit.  Then move on to distributor cap, etc.

  Any suggstions for starting it in the rain???
	Yes! Just spray all the high voltage stuff with WD-40, wait a minute or
	two and she'll usually sputter to life on the first try.  Works with
	my Volvo every time!

Good luck,
Joe Cascio

nlm (03/24/83)

I have a similar problem with my 77 honda civic (standard).
Sometimes it condescends to start in the rain, but dies shortly
thereafter (usually when I slow for a turn or stop for a light). 
If I catch it just before it dies and give it LOTS
of gas for several minutes, it recovers and runs ok.
If it dies, it sits, stubbornly refusing to start again, for about
5 minutes.  Then it starts easily and runs ok.

ANY IDEAS????


Nancy Mintz	mhb5b!nlm

prgclb (03/24/83)

There are commercial drying agents sold in spray cans,
and as a rule, these work very well.  I first learned
of these when I called the AAA to start my car on a
Monday after a whole weekend out in the rain.
I bought a can for myself, and used it a year later when,
after driving for about two hours in a pouring rain,
my car came sputtering to a stop.  I was able to glide
into a motel parking lot and coast to a stop under the
canopy, spray the living daylights out of the distributor
cap and wiring, idle the car for about 20 minutes to warm
it up and dry it out, then proceed on my not-so-merry
way!

				Carl Blesch
				Bell Labs - Naperville, Ill.
				IH 2A-159, (312) 979-3360
				ihuxm!prgclb

yuan (03/25/83)

#R:brunix:-207000:uicsl:2800003:000:499
uicsl!yuan    Mar 24 20:42:00 1983

I had the same problem with my old Plymouth, and the culprit
is the coil. It seems that the high voltage in the center of
the coil is too close to the ground on the side. And you
can see the arcing sparks in the dark. I would suggest you
try the coil first.
WD-40 as suggested by the first response is an excellent idea.
One time a mechanic told me the same thing, and I tried it.
It works perfectly. Just be careful with WD-40, it is highly
flammable. One of my friend use it as a starting fluid!!

leichter (03/25/83)

Just a little note to go along with Carl Blesch's information about drying
agents:  The main thing to watch out for when this kind of thing happens to
you is not to run down your battery.  The drying agent will let you start
the car, but will NOT keep it running.  Be sure to give the engine enough
gas to keep going.  The natural thing to do is lose patience and "try it
out to see if it's dry enough yet".  Do this often early enough, and the
engine stalls, and you get to start it again.  Eventually, your battery
goes.  Give it time!  With a little practice, you get the feel for when the
car is about to stall as you ease off on the gas slowly; that way, you don't
have to ease off all the way into a stall.  (This is made trivial if you have
a tach; just learn what your normal idle speed is & don't let it drop below
that.)  BTW, in my experience you very quickly get to the point at which
the car will idle in neutral, but dies when you shift to drive.  This is the
point where real patience is needed, since at this point you do nothing at
all, not even give the car gas.

Other notes:  The drying agents are VERY flammable and you should avoid
breathing their vapors (they consist mainly of ether).

Replacing the plug wires is often a big help - although in my experience it
hasn't eliminated the problem, just cut down on its frequency.
							-- Jerry
						decvax!yale-comix!leichter
							leichter@yale