stuart@ssc-vax.UUCP (Stuart Lewis) (05/01/84)
Forgive me in not sending this in the mail - I tried, but my terminal threw- up and I lost the original article, name of the post'er' and about a page of text. Anyway, the mechanic - and I use the term loosly - is definatly jerking you around in telling you that you'll loose a valve because of a cracked exhaust manifold. I rate most mechanics little better than attorneys. But here's what to do: First remove the bad exhaust manifold. Start by removing 3 bolts (1/2" I think)that connect your manifold to a free floating flange on the exhaust pipes - it should take maybe 15 minutes - spray them with W-D 40 to loosen them. Then re- move the 6 bolts holding the manifold to the head (9/16") and take it off. Now,take this manifold with you to your local wrecking yard and tell the guy what you need - year and engine size. Then, when he produces one inspect it very carefully. Make sure it is exactly like the one you brought with you. Check it for cracks; check the exhaust flange studs and make sure that they are not stripped; if it is the passenger side inspect the heat riser to make sure that it is not full of mud or clogged - assure yourself that it will work at least after a good cleaning with some solvent, etc. The cost should be no more than $15 or so. Now, on the way home stop at a parts shop and get a set of exhaust gaskets - my choice would be Felpro but there are other brands just as comparable. Before you leave check fit these gaskets to make sure they are the correct port size and that the round "donut" gasket is the proper diameter for the tail flange. Cost maybe $10. Also while you're there, pick up some GE High Temp Silicone. It comes in a squeeze tube and there will be a bead/sample in the package - it'sorange colored. Cost about $4. Now you're ready to re-assemble. Use some alcohol or kerosene and thoroughly, and I mean thoroughly clean both mating surfaces - around the ports on the head and on the manifold. Also, in- spect the old manifold-to-exhaust gasket - the donut looking thing. Nine times out of ten It'll be a real pain to remove and usually not without destroying it.If that appears to be the case, just leave the old one on. Use some of your si-licone that you bought on the manifold and place the gaskets in place then put some more on those surfaces and carefully place the manifold on the head - have at least one bolt ready to go on to hold it in place - a center one preferably. Put the remaining 5 bolts in and tighten them down. If you don't have a torque wrench just put them on good and tight - don't over tighten them. Don't worry about using too much silicone either - the excess will simply squeeze out. If it does, leave it alone and don't pull it off - especially after it sets, or youcould ruin the seal. If you use the new donut gasket just drop it in place and go back together with it - if you use the old one be generous with the silicone and coat that sucker good. Then pull the lower flange back up and put the 3 nuts back on - again, just good and tight - don't strip them. And that's it. Total cost less than $45 - a LOT cheaper than if you have the idiot mechanic do it for you. Total time maybe an afternoon. Hope this proves some help. It's a very easy job even for one who has never worked on a car in his/her life, and all you basically need is a 1/2" and 9/16" wrench. If you have a ratchet it's even easier. I would seek out another me- chanic to obtain opinions from in the future however. __________ | | ------- --------- /Stuart Lewis / / ssc-vax!stuart/ --------- ------- | | ----------