[net.auto] help for MGB owner

burden@cheers.DEC (Dave Burden --- 381-2559) (08/10/84)

From:	NOVA::GAVIN        "BILL GAVIN"   10-AUG-1984 10:30  
To:	CHEERS::BURDEN
Subj:	RE: maybe you can help this poor soul

I've run into similar symptoms with both my V8 Monza and my Austin
Mini-Cooper (997cc). In both cases the problem was excessively rich
mixture.

The problem with the Monza was the poison-hands 'mechanic' the
previous owner took it to. I pulled the carb, reset everything
to specification, and found a tremendous improvement. No more
running on, no pinging, and 20mpg instead of 12mpg. I'm still
fooling with the auto choke and idle mixture settings, but it
works adequately for an engine with 125k on it.

The problem with the Mini is a little different; a thoroughly
modified engine that was pretty competitive in SCCA D-Sedan
racing in the late 60's. I put smaller carbs on, altered the
ignition advance curve, and did a few more things to make the
car streetable. I worked my way through all your symptoms. It
seems that the mixture started out so rich the carbs wouldn't
respond to mixture adjustments, but the idle was fairly smooth.
The 20mpg mileage was the clue here, and I arbitrarily started
to lean the carbs down until the engine barely ran. After some
driving and further fiddling, the carbs started responding to
adjustments. Once the mileage got over 30mpg, I figured the
mixture was ok in idle and midrange, so I started swapping
needles to dial in the whole range.

Since you've done so much, I'd skip all the normal stuff and
look deeper. Carefully inspect the needle for scuffing; if the
needle is worn, it will give a rich idle mixture. If you adjust
for this, it will give a lean mixture in mid and top range. Top
tends not to be so noticeable. Stromberg needles, unlike SUs,
are not symmetrical, and have to be fitted in a certain way.
Check a good manual and make sure you've got it right. Also, do
you have the special tools for holding the piston from rotating
while you adjust the mixture ? Double check the rubber diaphragm
for tiny cracks, and make sure it is seated properly in the piston
and in the carb body. Check for cracks, missing seals and plugs,
and worn parts (throttle shafts, etc).

Strombergs have temperature compensators on them. I haven't
messed with them for a long time, but they can lose their
setting and cause temperature-dependant mixture problems.
Check the manual, and try to figure it out before you tear
into it. These can be disabled or removed; the EPA won't
approve, but ........

After you're sure the basic mechanical specification is ok,
and if the problem persists, try leaning down the mixture
a good amount; if the problem gets better, go some more.
If it gets worse, richen the mixture. Fuel pump pressure
can also affect things. Make sure you have a good fuel
filter in the line and that it isn't plugged.

You might switch to a single SU, but the brake booster will
prevent you from fitting twin SUs, which would be the best
solution short of a Weber.

It sounds like your problem is rich mixture, but finding
the cause can be a real challenge.

		- Bill Gavin