[rec.food.recipes] VEGAN: Rassam

tandy@ucbarpa.Berkeley.EDU (Tandy Warnow) (03/28/91)

In article <1991Mar27.044553.20802@mthvax.cs.miami.edu> 
shedevil@leland.stanford.edu (Annie) writes:

>Last night we went out for Indian food, and our dinner started with a
>soup that was called, I believe, "Rasham", and the description was "a
>hot Indian pepper soup".  

My husband is from Tamil Nadu, in South India, and there they have a
"soup" called "Rassam" or "Rasam."  It's similar to Sambar, in that it
is made from toor dal (similar to yellow split peas), tamarind paste
and lots of water.

There are many variations on rassam.  Here is a recipe for one.
Comments in parentheses are mine.

************************************************************
   (Taken from Madhur Jaffrey's "Vegetarian Cooking")

    1/2 C toovar dal (also called toor dal or arhar dal)
    2 quarter-size slices ginger
    1/2 tsp. turmeric
    1 pound tomatoes chopped (roma tomatoes are best)
    4 tps. tamarind paste
    2.5 tsp.salt
    7 cloves garlic (not used by Brahmins in South India,
        so you can leave this out if you like)
    1 red pepper
    1.5 tbs. curry leaves
    10-15 fresh Chinese parsley (aka coriander or cilantro)
    generous pinch asafetida
    3/4 tsp. ground cumin
    3/4 tsp. ground coriander seed
    2 tsp. oil
    3/4 tsp. whole black mustard
    3/4 tsp. whole cumin
    1/2 tsp. urid dal
    2 tsp. fresh Chinese parsley, chopped

Put toor dal, 4 cups water, ginger, and 1/4 tsp. turmeric in to boil;
simmer for 1.5 hours. Mash. let sit for 10 minutes.  (Can do this fast
in a pressure cooker if you like.)

Combine tomatoes, tamarind paste, 1/4 tsp. turmeric, salt, 5 garlic
cloves, red pepper, 1 tbs. curry leaves, chinese parsley, asafetida,
ground cumin and coriander, and 4 cups water in a new pot. Bring to a
boil. cover, turn heat to low and simmer for 1.5 hours. (We never let
it simmer for more than 15 minutes.)

Take a cup of the dal water and add to the tomato pot.  Then take 1/4
cup of thick dal, mash it, add to tomato pot.  Strain this mixture
through a sieve, extracting as much liquid as you can.  (We don't do
this at all.  We just combine the dal water with the tomatoes and
spices).

Put strained liquid in a pot and bring to boil.  Cover, and turn off
heat.

Put the oil in a small skillet and heat over a medium flame.  When hot,
put in the remaining 2 cloves garlic, mustard seeds, whole cumin seeds,
urid dal, 1/2 tbs. curry leaves, and after a few seconds pour these
contents into the hot soup (strained liquid), and cover immediately.
Let sit for 5 minutes, strain and serve with chopped chinese parsley.

************************************************************
Additional comments (Mine):

    The way we make it at home is much faster, easier, but may not be
    as delicious.  It certainly is at least as authentic, since Rasam
    is a South Indian preparation, and Madhur Jaffrey is a North
    Indian.

    You can use the same ingredients as she suggests, but don't bother
    to strain the tomatoes, dal paste, etc.  The important thing is to
    use good tomatoes, very firm fleshed roma tomatoes for example.
    Also, use enough tamarind paste to make the rasam somewhat sour.
    The coriander leaves (aka cilantro or chinese parsley) add a lot of
    flavor at the end.  She describes at the end of her recipe a way
    to  "season" the rasam.  This means adding fried spices.  We do
    this but only use the mustard seeds, and sometimes a few curry
    leaves.  The way to do this well is to use a metal spoon -- a bit
    stainless steel one which you can put directly over the heat, and
    hold the handle of without getting burnt.  In this spoon we put a
    tablespoon of oil or less, and let it get quite hot, almost but not
    quite smoking.  Only when it is very hot do you add the spices,
    since the mustard seeds will only pop (or "burst") if added when
    the oil is very hot.  As soon as they start popping (5-10 seconds)
    take the spoon off the heat, and add the contents of your spoon to
    the rasam.

    This is eaten mixed with rice and whatever vegetables you've
    cooked.  It can be eaten separately, but that's very rare.
    Probably only for invalids.

Tandy