[rec.food.recipes] MEAT: Grillades and Grits

riacmt@ubvmsa.cc.buffalo.edu (Carol Miller-Tutzauer) (05/14/91)

 Grillades & Grits -- Copyright 1991 by Carol Miller-Tutzauer
 -----------------

Description:  Grillades (pronounced GREE-awds) consists of thin slices
of meat (can be beef, veal, or pork) browned then cooked in a "stew."
There are many versions of them, from a more "country-style" (my recipe
below) to quite sophisticated versions (like served at Brennan's, New
Orleans).  If you have ever had "swiss steak" then the flavor and
cooking technique is similar.  The country-style version below is much
more gravy-like, while in the finer restaurants in the city, they tend
to be richer and more tomato-based.  Serve on good, long-cooking
(!!!!!) grits.  (Instant grits will turn to concrete on you.)  I also
prefer using pork because I believe the result to be much more
flavorful.

1 lb thinly sliced pork (loin is good)
flour, about 1 cup or less total
vegetable oil, about 1/2 cup or less total
1 medium to large onion, chopped coarsely (about 1 cup or more)
5 cloves garlic, minced
2 medium tomatoes, chopped coarsely (about 1 cup or more)
4 cups (approximately) chicken or pork broth (or water)
1 T Kitchen Bouquet or other darkening liquid (optional)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Cayenne Pepper (red pepper)
Tabasco Sauce (or other hot sauce)
Hot cooked grits (long-cooking type, not instant or quick-cooking)

Chop onions and set aside.  Do the same for the garlic and tomatoes,
setting each aside in a separate dish.

Take thinly sliced pork and if any pieces are significantly larger than
2" x 4", cut into smaller pieces.  Lay the pieces out on a working
surface and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper.  Turn
pieces over and do the same to the other side.

In a shallow bowl, put about 1/2 cup flour.  If desired, mix in some
ground black pepper and cayenne pepper.  Move the meat pieces to a
plate.  Take meat pieces along with dish of flour to a work surface
next to or near your stovetop.

Take a cast iron dutch oven (preferably) and heat over medium to
medium-high heat.  When hot, add about 1/4 c vegetable oil.  Take meat
pieces, dredge (lightly coat) in flour, and brown in the oil over
medium heat.  You will not be able to do all of the meat at once, so
just brown several pieces at a time and remove to a plate as they are
done.  Continue until all meat pieces have been browned and removed to
a plate.  You may have to add some more oil as you go along.  DO NOT
drain the meat pieces on paper toweling.

When all meat has been browned, add about 1/4 cup flour to the pan
drippings.  If there is not enough oil to absorb the flour, add what is
necessary.  Cook the flour slowly (medium heat should be fine) until it
begins to turn brown.  (Note: You may stop browning the flour sooner if
you use Kitchen Bouquet or other browning sauce.  Light brown will be
fine in this case.)  Now add garlic and saute briefly until fragrant.
Immediately add onion.  Continue stirring.  This will become a big
"glue-like" mess, but that's OK.  Cook for about 1 - 2 minutes, or
until onions begin to get tender.  Now add tomatoes and saute for
another minute.  Add broth or water, stirring well to mix vegetable
mixture with liquid.  Return meat pieces (and any juices on plate) to
dutch oven with stew mixture.  Add Kitchen bouquet, cayenne pepper as
desired (we add anywhere from 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon, depending on
how spicy we want the dish), and simmer uncovered for about 30 - 45
minutes, or until meat is tender and sauce has thickened.  If
necessary, add water to keep from getting too thick.  At the end of
cooking time, season with salt to taste.

In the meantime, cook the grits (they take about 20 - 30 minutes).  

To serve:  Put a glob of grits on your plate, pour grillades on top,
add Tabasco sauce, salt, pepper, and/or cayenne pepper as desired.

Non-country-style grillades:  More sophisticated versions do not use a
roux (mixing and browing flour in the meat drippings).  Instead, you
would brown the meat pieces, saute the garlic & onions, add tomatoes
and saute until they collapse.  Add (approximately 1 1/2 cups) broth or
stock (usually veal stock is used) and thicken with some tomato paste.
Add cayenne pepper, salt, & black pepper (& Tabasco sauce) to taste.
Simmer until meat is tender.  Oh, yeah....fancier versions use veal
instead of pork or beef and also use much less garlic.  You can also
play around with the spices (thyme, oregano, mustard powder, cumin, or
whatever you think you would like).  Grillades are also good on rice
for dinner.  We like them for brunches because we can cook them up a
day in advance and simple rewarm them and cook the grits in the
morning.

***
Enjoy, -- Carol