vatche@pedsga.UUCP (Vatche Daghlian) (08/01/89)
I am in the process of determining the best alarm system to install in my new car. The names that I have run across are: 1) Crime Stopper 2) Ungo Box 3) Derringer My question is: Has anyone out in NET-land had any experience with any one of these units. If so, I would appreciate it if you would drop me a line informing me of your experiences. Thank you. Vatche Daghlian
cyamamot@nunki.usc.edu (Cliff Yamamoto) (08/02/89)
In article <945@pedsga.UUCP> vatche@pedsga.UUCP (Vatche Daghlian,SPCSYS,7546) writes: >I am in the process of determining the best alarm system to >install in my new car. The names that I have run across >are: > 1) Crime Stopper > 2) Ungo Box > 3) Derringer > >Has anyone out in NET-land had any experience with any one >of these units. I have an Ungo in my car and am very happy with it. I think someone else also posted they have an Ungo as well. The Ungo has it hands down in terms of motion/shock sensing. Allow me to elaborate a bit. They use two mecury "bulbs" mounted perpendicular on the horizontal axis. These "bulbs" are surronded by coils that are connected to a circuit similar to that in a metal detector. When you arm the alarm, the microcontroller allows 30 seconds for the mecury to settle down to the position of car (i.e. on a hill, embankment, etc). Once settled, the microcontroller "nulls" the detector for the current position of the mecury. From this point on, any disturbance to the mecury will cause the detector to go off "null" and trigger the alarm. This type of motion/shock sensing has no moving parts (unless you consider mecury in a glass bulb a 'moving part') and thus never wears out. Because detection is done electronically, you can adjust the sensitivity and forget it. Sensitivity doesn't change due to worn out parts. Other alarms either use a mechanical weight-loaded switch that turns on when jarred or a ball bearing encased above a circuit board with copper traces for conduction when jarred. The Ungo can be had for as little as $145 (non-remote) uninstalled. I'm not familiar with Crime Stopper but the Derringers start at $300 installed (** I was going to get a Derringer until I found out no wiring instructions are provided and the warranty is void unless a dealer does it for you ) I preferred to install a car alarm myself and since the Ungo had a better sensor and came with wiring instructions I purchased it. If you need more tech info on the Ungo let me know. Cliff Yamamoto
chrisb@escargot.UUCP (Chris Bradley) (08/05/89)
In article <945@pedsga.UUCP> vatche@pedsga.UUCP (Vatche Daghlian,SPCSYS,7546) writes: > >I am in the process of determining the best alarm system to >install in my new car. The names that I have run across >are: > > 1) Crime Stopper > 2) Ungo Box > 3) Derringer > >My question is: > >Has anyone out in NET-land had any experience with any one >of these units. If so, I would appreciate it if you would >drop me a line informing me of your experiences. Ah yes, the days of car alarms. I used to sell them. All the above you just listed. What do I like best? The UNGO! Why? The Ungo sensor is both motion and shock, meaning if someone jacks up your car or kicks the tires, it will sound the alarm. The sensor is made out of mercury filled tubes with an inductive pickup around each one. They both are used to determine the position of the vehicle in the right to left fashion and the forward to rear fashion. The Ungos are very easy to install, very simple to operates, and, most of all DO THE JOB WELL! You can set an Ungo's sensitivity anywhere from a slight tap of the car to having to rock the thing. It's also very good on false alarms. If you just push down on your car once, the alarm won't go off. If it's jacked up or bounced more than once, it will sound the alarm, providing you have the sensitivity set that high. All of Ungo's new boxes are surface-mounted and QC'd over 4000 times in the factory. You can get the basic remote package anywhere from $135-195 depending on where you go (TL-1255) to the full-blown alarm system (TL-4000). Features on each alarm system differ, however you can expand a TL-1255 to equal the features of the TL-4000. It'll cost you more though!! The most important thing in any alarm system is the sensor. Since Mercury won't freeze in normal human temperatures, your sensor won't come out of alignment, break, or otherwise get knocked around to where it won't work any more. Both the Derringer and the Crimestopper have shock sensors with motion sensors as an option. I've owned both a Clifford and a Viper and never will own one again. If you want the horror stories on each, I'll be glad to provide details. :-) If you have any more questions on specifics on any of the alarm systems mentioned above, feel free to drop me a line! -->Chris
chris@zorin.UUCP (Christopher Nielsen) (08/08/89)
In article <273@escargot.UUCP>, chrisb@escargot.UUCP (Chris Bradley) writes: > In article <945@pedsga.UUCP> vatche@pedsga.UUCP (Vatche Daghlian,SPCSYS,7546) writes: > > The sensor is made out of mercury filled tubes with an inductive pickup around > each one. They both are used to determine the position of the vehicle in the > right to left fashion and the forward to rear fashion. > > ... > > The most important thing in any alarm system is the sensor. Since Mercury > won't freeze in normal human temperatures, your sensor won't come out of > > -->Chris Interesting stuff... As I wrote a few months ago, I built my own car alarm out of a Radio Shack Model 100, and an interface. I am using one of the Radio Shack shock sensors. I don't think this is mercury, though. I seems to work ok, but I think it could be a bit more sensitive. Since I have written the program to function as the alarm, I can cancel out the first 'bump', or even the second, within a specified time... etc. I am interested in sensors, and the one you mentioned on the UNGO sounds much better than the one I'm using now. Can I get one seperately? How much? Also, what about sound descriminators, and other types of sensors? Are door switches much worth using if you have a shock/motion sensor? Someone who once sold car alarms should have some opinions on such things.... Now I just have to get the service manual for my car, and figure out how to interface to the diagnostic port under the hood, or something to disable the engine if in alarm mode... Gee... I wonder what intersting bits of information I can decode out of those diagnostic connectors? BTW this is '89 Jeep Cherokee, should anyone already know.... Christopher A. Nielsen ////////////////// Zorin Data Systems, Inc //// P.O. Box 5669 Santa Monica, CA 90405-0669 //// (213) 399-3804 x 45 //// UUCP: randvax!zorin!info //// <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Zorin... "The Future On-Line" >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> < Online Product Information and other services - Call or write for free demo >