[rec.birds] Wild Baby Birds -- a guideline

dragon@eleazar.dartmouth.edu (Sam Conway) (03/05/90)

The following is from a pamphlet put together by Nancy Read, director of
the Vermont Raptor Center, in honor of the fast-approaching nesting season.
Each year, our organization receives as many as 400 baby birds in the months
between February and August.  As many as 80% of these were healthy birds
which were "rescued" needlessly by well-meaning people.  This pamphlet was
designed to make folks aware of some little-known facts about baby birds.
Comments enclosed in brackets are editorial.


                             *****************

                           FACTS ABOUT BABY BIRDS


*  MOST BABY BIRDS ON THE GROUND ARE NOT ORPHANS!  Well-feathered young birds
   which can move about but are not yet able to fly are called "branchers";
   it is normal for them to be on the ground and it is best to LEAVE THEM
   ALONE so that their parents can continue to care for them.

*  BIRDS HAVE A VERY POOR SENSE OF SMELL!  This means that very young (not
   yet feathered) birds CAN be replaced in the nest, and the parents will con-
   tinue to care for them IF you keep your distance.  [note:  this lie about
   birds rejecting babies for human-scent, which has been perpetuated by
   mothers for generations, was designed to keep children from disturbing baby
   birds.  If you wish to tell your kids the truth, please make sure they
   understand the importance of leaving nests undisturbed.]

*  BABY BIRDS ARE VERY DIFFICULT TO HAND-RAISE!  Their requirements are very
   specific with regards to nutrition, temperature, and housing.  Very young
   birds need to be fed every 20 minutes!

*  ALL NATIVE WILD BIRDS ARE PROTECTED BY LAW!  It is illegal to keep them as
   pets, or to raise orphans EXCEPT under the direction of a licensed wild-
   life rehabilitator.  [note:  this is a U.S. Federal Law; other countries
   may be more permissive.  Please bear in mind the difficulty involved, as
   described above, and the potential harm that can be done to the bird from
   improper nutrition, housing, etc.]

*  CATS ARE A SERIOUS THREAT TO BIRDS, ESPECIALLY DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
   You can help by keeping your cat (and dog) inside while there are flight-
   less youngsters on the ground (this vulnerable period usually lasts only
   a few days), and by keeping an elasticized collar and bell on your cat to
   warn adult birds of its approach.  [and please, no flames from cat-lovers
   who feel this is an affront.  It is only a suggestion, and I do not want to
   see another cat-war break out.  If you wish to discuss it, please reply to
   me via e-mail.]




           BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO RESCUE AN INJURED OR ORPHANED ANIMAL...

*  Rescuing an animal is advised IF:
    -  the parents are KNOWN to be dead and the animal is too young to be on
       its own.
    -  the animal has been injured.
    -  the animal is in immediate or obvious danger.

*  DO NOT attempt to handle potentially dangerous animals such as hawks, owls,
   herons, raccoons, skunks, etc.; call your local game warden or a licensed
   wildlife rehabilitator.  [even a small hawk can do serious damage to un-
   protected flesh.  A heron, even a fledgling, is capable of KILLING a grown
   man.  A trained wildlife handler should be summoned.]

*  When in doubt about the correct course of action, seek advice from profes-
   sionals.  In Vermont, there are currently two licensed wildlife
   rehabilitators:
    -  Vermont Raptor Center, VINS, Woodstock, VT (birds only, 802-457-2779).
    -  Discovery Museum, Essex Jct., VT  (mammals and birds, 802-878-8687)
    -  [outside of Vermont, the places to call are local wildlife rehab
       organizations, or the local game warden or conservation department, in
       that order.  Most veterinarians have little experience with wild
       animals.]

*  To rescue an animal that does need help:
    -  Drop a towel over it and gather it up carefully.
    -  Place the animal in a container which is not much larger than the animal.
       The container should be enclosed (e.g. cardboard box) and kept dark to
       reduce stress, with small holes cut for ventilation.  NEVER PUT A BIRD
       IN A WIRE CAGE, INCLUDING PET BIRD CAGES!
    -  Minimize handling and disturbance, which cause stress to the animal.
       [please remember that what appears to be "friendliness" is usually a
       symptom of extreme stress or shock.  NO wild animal is "friendly"!]
    -  Do not feed or give water to injured animals.  Healthy orphaned birds
       can be fed hard-boiled egg yolk moistened with water as a TEMPORARY diet.
    -  Never use grass, hay, or straw for bedding, as edges may be sharp and
       they may harbor harmful organisms.  Use towels, or soft tissue.
    -  Keep the animal in a QUIET, body-temperature-warm situation.
    -  CONTACT A PROFESSIONAL AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!



           WILD BIRDS BELONG IN THE WILD -- HELP US KEEP THEM THERE!




--
Sam Conway                               *
dragon@eleazar.dartmouth.edu             *   Don't mention the war!
Chemistry Dept., Dartmouth College, NH   *   I mentioned it once, but I
Vermont Raptor Center (VINS)             *   think I got away with it...