alw@eddie.MIT.EDU (Alan Wu) (12/31/87)
In article <171@conexch.UUCP> root@conexch.UUCP (Larry Dighera) writes: >In article <1530@zodiac.UUCP> jshelton@ADS.ARPA (John L. Shelton) writes: >> >>Can anyone refer me to published information about the X-10 remote >>control standard? I'd be interested in any of the following: >> >>1. Description of the protocol >>2. Hobbyist articles describing construction projects >>3. Reviews of manufactured X-10 devices. >> >DAC Industries Inc. (800-325-0800) used to offer an X10 controller that >could be driven by a computer system via an RS232C interface. Called >The X10 Powerhouse, it provides the capability of controlling 256 remote >modules. The cost was about $25/each. It's called the CP290, and it's still available from Heathkit and many other places. X-10 Inc. offers software for the IBM PC, Commodore 64/128, Apple II, and the Mac. Radio Shack used to offer their version with TRS-80 Color Computer software, but I think they're closing it out. The regular X10 labeled version also includes a programmer's manual describing the raw bits and bytes and what they do, so you can write your own program. The CP290 can download and upload via an RS232 port, and can run independently so it doesn't tie up your computer. It has battery backup with a 9V alkaline keeping its memory and time going for up to 30 hours. The CP290 is much better than the other RS232 X10 interface also sold by Heathkit (GD-1530, $100) which is pretty obsolete since it ties up your computer. Heathkit is currently pushing their X10-compatible "Smarthome I", (GD-3800), which is a kit version of the system made by CyberLynx. KBJ (see later) had an article about the Smarthome system, which has fancier software than the CP290 and can also accept contact closure inputs from alarms and whatever, but also costs a lot more ($400 just for the basic controller and software, plus another $300 for the optional GD-3880 Alarm Center accessory). In comparison, the current Heathkit catalog lists the BC-290-A, -M , and -P (for the Apple II, Mac, and IBM PC respectively) at $39 including both hardware and software. BTW, I think the term "X-10 Powerhouse" refers to the entire line of equipment sold by X-10 (USA) Inc., formerly BSR X-10. >There is a terrific program in the public domain written by Larry Campbell, >that will drive the "Powerhouse" from a Unix system. Sounds interesting. What's it called, and where can I get it from? >Leviton Manufacturing Co, Inc 59-25 Little Neck Pkwy, Little Neck, NY 11632 >markets industrial quality X10 compatible components. I have installed >these in multi-story office buildings for controlling lighting, environmental >control, as well as large (10-50 HP) circulating pumps and chillers. Where do you buy the Leviton versions from? What do they offer beyond the consumer versions, and do they work well? I once saw the Leviton wall-switch version which could be used to control fluorescent lights (standard X10 wall switches can't, due to their dimmer feature which is incompatible with fluorescents). I bought it and installed it in my kitchen, but it smoked the first time so I brought it back for a refund (yes, I was very careful to wire it according to the instructions, including the requirement for a neutral wire). I was still willing to try again, but the place where I got it didn't have plans to restock. The Leviton stuff is expensive (over $50 for the wall switch that smoked), so I wouldn't get it unless there was no other way to do what I want. >You can reach the manufacturer at: >X10 (USA) Inc, 185A Legrand Avenue, Northvale, NJ 07647. Their phone number is (201) 784-9700. > > Further comments, for the original inquiry, as well as general interest: Several articles describing the internals of the X10 circuitry, troubleshooting hints, and various applications have been published in the Kit Builder's Journal (KBJ) started by Heathkit earlier this year. At least some of the material was written by X-10 Inc., so it should be pretty authoritative and up-to-date. I don't have a copy with me at the moment, but I'll post more info about KBJ when I get a chance, if somebody else doesn't do it first. As for reliability, it hasn't been horrible and it hasn't been great. I've had about 6 timers, 5 manual controllers, and maybe 30 power modules in use at various places spanning about 10 years. The labels have been X-10, Sears, Radio Shack, and Leviton (never got a GE to complete the collection), but they're all made by X-10 or its predecessor. Other than occasional problems with bad keyboard contacts, usually the stuff works fine out of the box. But thunderstorms, light bulbs burning out, and even power failures have broken about 8 modules and 1 timer over the years. Steve Ciarca of Byte magazine's Circuit Cellar used the X10 stuff for a while, but apparently gave up after a lightning storm blew out much of his equipment, including his X10 modules. He switched over to hard-wiring, which can be more reliable, but is much more difficult to install or reconfigure. I find the X10 stuff convenient, but when using it with vital systems such as controlling the heat in sub-zero weather, I'm very careful to use it in a "fail-safe" combination with selective use of hard-wiring. From looking inside failed modules, I've noticed that there is a very fine strand of fuse wire soldered in series with the "hot" conductor. But it never blows out (probably it's there just to keep the thing from catching fire if something shorts). The lamp modules won't turn on, won't turn off, or even flicker intermittently when they fail, all of which can be symptomatic of SCR problems. The appliance modules usually fail to turn on. With the older AM601 appliance modules, I've noticed that they sometimes hum and try to turn on, but the solenoid seems to be too weak to pull in. Only in this last case have I been able to fix things, by carefully dribbling WD40 lubricant into the recalcitrant microswitch. Other appliance modules fail to respond at all, presumably due to some electronic problem. I think the SCR is almost always the cause, but I haven't had time to test thoroughly. I had one of the fluorescent display timers start acting flaky after a thunderstorm, so I've taken to soldering in a MOV across the line inputs as a precaution. I'm not sure whether or not the newly-repackaged X10 stuff (in the beige rather than the old dark brown cases) is any better protected than the older stuff, since I haven't had the new stuff long enough to have one zapped yet. The new wireless remote controller (BC-5000, $40) works fine, though I wouldn't leave the receiver set to the same house code as anything I didn't want some joker outside with a transmitter to mess with. Especially in an aluminum-sided house, it has some problems with standing waves and null spots, so I've taken to waving the transmitter around with a grand flourish while pressing the buttons (poor man's spatial diversity transmission :^). I hope this information has been helpful. If anyone out there has further comments, questions, or experiences related to X10 or home control, I'd be interested in hearing from them.