[comp.sys.sun] the connector is the network

emv@math.lsa.umich.edu (03/30/89)

I have the well-known problem of Sun 3/60's getting disconnected from the
(thick) ethernet because of the lousy Sun connectors.  I'm sure there's
someone who has solved this problem to their satisfaction.  What did you
do?

--Ed

Edward Vielmetti, U of Michigan Math Department, Ann Arbor

corwin@talcott.harvard.edu (-David C. Kovar) (04/07/89)

> I have the well-known problem of Sun 3/60's getting disconnected from the
> (thick) ethernet because of the lousy Sun connectors.  I'm sure there's
> someone who has solved this problem to their satisfaction.  What did you
> do?

We had a similar problem with the cables dropping off of the back of our
new 386is if you even looked at them. I called the Hotline for hardware
technical support and explained the problem. I received a very sturdy
eight inch cable that goes between your normal cable and the CPU. No more
cables have fallen off. The label on the cable is "530-1519-01 REV 1 495
8839".  It'd be even better if it was a gooseneck but it works fine as is.

-David C. Kovar
	Technical Consultant			ARPA: kovar@husc4.harvard.edu
	Office of Information Technology	BITNET: corwin@harvarda.bitnet
	Harvard University			MacNET: DKovar
						Ma Bell: 617-495-5947

eap@bu-it.bu.edu (Eric Pearce) (04/21/89)

emv@math.lsa.umich.edu says:
>X-Sun-Spots-Digest: Volume 7, Issue 215, message 8 of 19
>
>I have the well-known problem of Sun 3/60's getting disconnected from the
>(thick) ethernet because of the lousy Sun connectors.  I'm sure there's
>someone who has solved this problem to their satisfaction.  What did you
>do?

I got tired of them falling off every time I breathed on them too.

Sun board side:
 Just unscrew the clip on Sun side and put the hex-head studs from
 another connector on the board ( such as an unused ttya, ttyb, mouse
 or video port ) where the screws went.

Ethernet cable side:
 Replace the studs on the ethernet cable with screws coming through
 the backside of the cable connector.  These will screw into the tops
 of the studs on the board.  

 The resulting connection is quite strong, if you trip on the ethernet
 cable, you can jerk your whole cpu cabinet sideways! 

 -e

 Eric Pearce                                   ARPANET eap@bu-it.bu.edu
 Boston University Information Technology      CSNET   eap%bu-it@bu-cs
 111 Cummington Street                         JNET    jnet%"ep@buenga" 
 Boston MA 02215                               UUCP    !harvard!bu-cs!bu-it!eap 
 617-353-2780 voice  617-353-6260 fax          BITNET  ep@buenga

rmwise@cloud9.stratus.com (Robert Wise) (04/21/89)

emv@math.lsa.umich.edu writes:
> I have the well-known problem of Sun 3/60's getting disconnected from the
> (thick) ethernet because of the lousy Sun connectors.  I'm sure there's
> someone who has solved this problem to their satisfaction.  What did you
> do?

What we do here at Stratus is remove the clip from the ethernet socket on
the sun.  There are two screws to remove.  Remove the screws and the clip,
and don't put the screws back in.  This allows the drop cable connector to
slide an extra 1/4" or so onto the sun-side connector.  This has proved to
be acceptable for us.

-Bob Wise
Stratus Computer
rmwise@cloud9.uucp
508-460-2968

reg@sequent.afwl.af.mil (Reg Clemens) (04/21/89)

What you need is a REAL electronics store or a catalog.  For less than $3
per machine you can buy a little package of those threaded extenders that
are on the rest of the connectors on the back back of the CPU and a
plastic shell to replace the one currently on the ethernet (DB15)
connector.  You back out the screws that hold down that spring steel thing
that is supposed to hold in the ethernet connector, and replace them with
the extenders. You replace the current plated shell with the new plastic
one.  Then you can screw down the damn connector just like a RS232 line.

I did this last week to four machines here.  You don't even have to power
them off while your doing it.... works fine...no more need for little
piles of hardware to try to support this wondrous IEEE standard.

                                Reg.Clemens
                                clemens@afwl.af.mil

pat@decwrl.dec.com (Pat Lashley) (04/22/89)

emv@math.lsa.umich.edu writes:
>I have the well-known problem of Sun 3/60's getting disconnected from the
>(thick) ethernet because of the lousy Sun connectors.  I'm sure there's
>someone who has solved this problem to their satisfaction.  What did you
>do?

This may be old news, but I have only been back on the net for a couple of
months...

The first thing that I do when we get a new transciever cable is remove
one of the washers under each of the posts.  This extra 1/16" seems to
significantly improve connection quality.

Sun is not the only company with a dbx connector problem.  The only time
that I have ever seen it work well was on an old TI 9900/4.  They used a
small dbx (15 ?) connector between the main box and the monitor.

I would prefer some sort of bayonette clip as a standard connector type.

Copyright (c) 1989 PM Lashley under the terms of the GNU General Public License
PMLashley	...{sun | megatest | sts | zygot}!cohesive!kla!pat
<<< I haven't lost my mind.  It's backed up on tape somewhere... >>>

david@sun.com (David L. Kensiski 929-8844) (04/22/89)

My solution consisted of criss-crossing cable ties around the hood.  One
cable tie assembly (I used 2 ties per assembly because 1 is too short)
would go from the back left of the hood (next to the cable) to the right
front and catch the clip.  The other assembly would do the same thing,
only the other way.

			  _____	 +--+
     	        _____-----     | |A'|		    (I used the A-A',
     	      B|	       |    | funky	     B-B' nomenclature
cable =========|      db15     |    |ethernet	     to keep the picture
	      A|_____          |    |  clip	     from getting too
		     -----_____| |B'|		     cluttered!)
			  	 +--+

If the above makes any sense, I ran one set of cable ties around the
connector from A to A', and anothe set from B to B'.  This works best if
the connector has square corners, but if not, you might be able to rig
another cable tie at AB to hold the other two in place.  Epoxy might do
the trick, too.

David L. Kensiski                          1772 Tribute Road
Martin Marietta Data Systems               Sacramento, CA 95815
UUCP: uunet!sun.com!sacto!orion!david      VOICE: (916) 929-8844

dave@lethe.UUCP (Dave Brown) (04/25/89)

If you are suffering from the common "Ethernet drop-cable fell off"
problem, look at the cable-end to see if a flat and lock washer are under
the **head** of the bolts which the clip clips onto.

These "improvements" were not part of the orig. spec, but insead were
added to help keep the bolts from falling off.  Regrettable, they change
designed depth of penetration of the connector, and so cause **it** to
fall off...

  This looks like:

------+
      |    
      |       +----+
      |       +-  -+  
      |        |  |
      |      +--  --+
      |      |      |  funny bolt-head for clip
      |      |      |
      |    ------------
      |    ------------ redundant washers
      |    ------------
      +------------------------+
                               | body of plug
                               |
                               |
-------------------------------+
           ------------ non-redundant washers
           ------------
             |      |   securing nut on bolt-end
             |      |

If you throw away the redundant washers, the plug can go all te REST of
the way into the socket, making better mechanical and electrical contact,
adn improving both signal quality and resistance to being bumped out.

--dave
-- 
David Collier-Brown,  | {toronto area...}lethe!dave
78 Hillcrest Ave.,    |  Joyce C-B:
Willowdale, Ontario,  |     He's so smart he's dumb.
CANADA  M2N 3N7       |

dave@lethe.UUCP (Dave Collier-Brown) (05/06/89)

In article <2096@lethe.UUCP> dave@lethe.UUCP (Dave Brown) writes:
>X-Sun-Spots-Digest: Volume 7, Issue 246, message 7 of 12
>If you are suffering from the common "Ethernet drop-cable fell off"
>problem, look at the cable-end to see if a flat and lock washer are under
>the **head** of the bolts which the clip clips onto.

In the above article, I implied that the cable was "improved"
ill-advisedly.  I was just corrected: Sun made the fitting the cable
connects to in a non-standard manner, thus requiring the cable to change
to regain the contact depth required for good connections...

--dave (I shoulda guessed) c-b
-- 
David Collier-Brown,  | {toronto area...}lethe!dave
72 Abitibi Ave.,      |  Joyce C-B:
Willowdale, Ontario,  |     He's so smart he's dumb.
CANADA. 223-8968      |

joe@uunet.uu.net (Joe Michel-Angelo) (05/06/89)

 emv@math.lsa.umich.edu writes: 
> I have the well-known problem of Sun 3/60's getting disconnected from the

if you are really lazy, just take off the conector cover -- thus removing
weight and strain ... the resulting coverless connector holds just fine!

"The Network         Joe Angelo,  VP/Technical Support - Support Group Division
 Adminstrator        Teknekron Software Systems, Palo Alto, CA     415-325-1025
 Is the Computer"    
                     joe@tss.com - uunet!tekbspa!joe - tekbspa!joe@uunet.uu.net

rlk@think.com (Robert L. Krawitz) (05/06/89)

The local solution:

The Sun, and most ethernet cables, have a couple of small washers between
the stud and the body of the connector.  This makes the top of the studs
stick out further (about 1 or 2 mm), and it restricts how closely the
connectors can be coupled.  Removing all the washers (typically two each
per side for the cable and the port, or eight total) allows the cables to
be mated very tightly.  It also leaves the slide clip in place (but
difficult to move; you'll need a screwdriver or the like to move it if you
do it properly; this is a feature rather than a bug) to provide some extra
protection.

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