[net.cooks] Information on Truffles -- no recipes

minow@decvax.UUCP (Martin Minow) (11/24/83)

For those of you wondering what truffles are and why they are called
truffles, wonder no more.  They are called truffles because they
resemble the truffle mushroom -- a roundish ball about 3/4 inch
in diameter.  The following comes from "Making Chocolate," by
Alec Leaver, published in 1975 by Weathervane Books by arrangement
with Michael Joseph Ltd.  The book is probably out of print.

"Truffles are the easiest chocolates to make and certainly the
most delightful to eat.  They provide an excellent introduction
to the problems of handling and coating centres which are
very important in chocolate-making.

"The basis of the truffle centre is ganache paste, a mixture
of melted chocolate and warm cream well blended and cooled
until it hardens.  Orange, honey, peppermint, rum or vanilla
can be added to give flavor, but it is important that the
final mixture should be hard enough to be moulded to shape
and be capable of standing up to being coated with chocolate.

"The texture of ganache paste depends upon the kinds of
cream and chocolate and the proportions in which they are used.
Plain chocolate is harder than milk chocolate, so more cream can
be added to it.  Single cream is thinner than double so must
be used in smaller quantities.  ....

"Incorporating cream or other liquids fulfils two functions:
it softens the chocolate and it gives flavour.  Any liquid can
be added to chocolate and will have a softening effect, if that
is all that is desired.  Even water can be used, although its
effect is so drastic that the quantity must be very accurate
indeed:  3 fl. oz. of water added to 1 lb. milk chocolate gives
a slightly soft consistency, 4 fl. oz. would make it much too
soft, while only 2 fl. oz. would leave it too hard to mold.
It is important to be as accurate as possible, even when using
cream, but ther is room for a little error.

"After the centre has been made and moulded to shape, it is
coated with chocolate to seal it and help to keep it moist.
It is then rolled in a final decorative coating, and this can
cocoa sweetened with a little icing sugar, or chopped mixed nuts.
This centre does not keep for more than a week or two in warm
weather since it is subject to mould, so it is wise to store
truffles in the refrigerator [well sealed to prevent them
from absorbing odors].  They can be kept in the deep freeze
in a sealed container, but when the centers are very cold they
have no flavor and should be brought to room temperature
slowly.

"The finish of truffles is a matter of choice.... The object
is to give each chocolate with a different type of centre its
own attractive and distinctive appearance so that one can tell
what the centre is.  A box of four or five different kinds
of truffles is attractive to the eye and delightful to eat."

One last note:  Julia Child had a bit on truffle making on
this week's show -- a gloriously messy look into a chocolate
factory.  Their (commercial) recipe mixed the chocolate into
what looked like a soft caramel.  I would guess that the
chocolate was unsweetened (liqueur) -- otherwise the sugar
makes no sense.

Also, if you're interested in unusual uses of chocolate, try
to see Dusan Majakiev's "Sweet Movie."

Martin Minow
decvax!minow