macrakis@harvard.ARPA (Stavros Macrakis) (06/17/85)
This weekend, there was a conference here on "Current Research in
Culinary History: Sources, Topics, and Methods". To be more precise,
it was held at the Schlesinger Library on the History of Women in
America (Radcliffe College) and sponsored by the Schlesinger Library
and the Culinary Historians of Boston.
The place was packed with an exciting crowd of people who take food
history seriously--a good mix of historians, anthropologists,
regional specialists, cookbook authors, food writers, nutritionists,
and others.
There were papers by Alan Davidson (auth. North Atlantic Seafood:
"Historical Perspective"), Reynaldo Alejandro (auth. Philippine
Ckbk: "Philippines"), Darra Goldstein (auth. A La Russe: Eastern
Influence in Russian Cuisine"), Rudolf Grewe ("An Early 13th Century
Northern European Cookbook"), Karen Hess (coauth. Taste of America:
"The Jonny-cake Papers, and other tales: Problems in Culinary
Research"), George Armelagos ("Biological and Social Aspects of Food
Selection"), Anne Pascarelli ("Food and Cookery Collection of the NY
Academy of Medicine"), Angelica Ruge ("Using Cookbooks as a Source
for German Social History"), James Baker ("Recreating 17th Centruy
Cuisine"), David Miller ("Culinary Utensil Nomenclature"), William
Woys Weaver ("Was there a Philadelphia Style?").
And there were workshops run by Alejandro and Pascarelli ("Resources
for Culinary History in the NY Area"), Jean Goldberg ("Nutritional
Issues in Culinary History"), Bridget Henisch ("Cookery Scenes in
Medieval Sources"), Josef Konvitz ("Gastronomy and Urbanization"),
Wm+Yvonne Lockwood ("Ethnic Roots and American Regional Foods"), Jan
Longone ("Cookbooks and Culinary Resources"), Sarah McMahon ("The
Study of Diet and Food Ways in Colonial America"), Laura Shapiro
("Women and Cooking"), Meryle Evans ("Southern Cooking"), Barbara
Kafka (food columnist, Vogue: "Culinary History and the "Commercial"
Writer"), Paul Levy (auth. The Official Foodie Handbook:
"Contemporary Trends in Restaurant Cuisine"), Joan Nathan
("Interviewing Techniques"), Jacqueline Newman ("Chinese Food"), Jane
and Michael Stern (auth. Roadfood: "America's Vernacular Cuisine:
The Food that Dares not Speak its Name"), Barbara Wheaton (auth.
Savoring the Past: "the French Kitchen and Table from 1300-1789:
Computer as a Research Tool"), Anne Willan ("A Hundred Years of
French Regional Cooking--Can it Survive?").
Even `speedies' were mentioned as an example of de-ethnicized regional
cooking (`speedy' being from the Italian `spiedini'). The tone was
serious but entertaining--no crazy speculation, but much stimulating
discussion.
At the wine and cheese reception, there was the opportunity to meet
many of the `big names' in cookery in a pleasant, informal atmosphere,
where you could go up to an author whose name you recognized and
engage her or him in conversation.
Unfortunately, I missed about half the conference and both the dinner
at Plimoth Plantation with historicaly accurate 17th-century cooking
and the dinner at Maison Robert, one of the top French restaurants in
Boston. But I will be joining the Culinary Historians of Boston.
They usually meet monthly at WGBH (Allston, near Harvard Sq.). "Our
meetings are a mixture of formal papers given by members or by
visitors, and participatory sessions in which everyone makes a
presentation on a chosen topic. We ended the 1982-83 year with an
early 19th-century picnic, the 1983-84 year with a celebration of
Careme's bicentennial.... Members receive all announcements, an
annual report, and the membership list for dues of $20 ($25 for
couples). The cost of special events is billed separately; we keep it
as low as possible." For membership, check to "Culinary Historians of
Boston" c/o Mrs. Joan Kriegstein, 3 Evergreen Lane, Hingham, MA 02043.
I understand similar organizations have been formed in NYC and Ann
Arbor.
-s