[net.cooks] soup thickeners & chicken gumbo recipe

nemo@rochester.UUCP (Wolfe) (09/17/85)

> >Make a lot of roux ...  Pour 1 T globs of it on waxed paper and
> >freeze until set.  You can then store these in a freezer bag or a plastic
> >container.  Now when you want to thicken something hot, just plunk in the

> It is not necessary to freeze roux. It keeps for at least a week at room
> temperature. If you plan to keep it longer, refrigerate it. Cold it will
> keep for up to two months.

I used to keep roux (especially dark roux which is time-consuming to make)
in a jar in the fridge.  It sounds much easier to have tablespoon sized
patties, though.

> For gravies, which I like quite dark, burn the roux. Bruning roux is akin to
> burning butter. It turns a deep brown. This does not harm the roux, it just
> makes it very dark brown, which darkens your gravy very well.
Right-o!  Turkey gravy just ain't right without a good roux broun.  It does
change the thickening power of the roux, though.  The darker roux will not
thicken as well as a light roux (roux blanc or roux beige).  The Cajuns
really do burn their roux, slowly cooking it for a day or more (you gotta
stir the stuff and cook it on a low fire) until it is black.  Then you make
the rest of the gumbo and have a party!  Recipe follows.

Chicken Gumbo

1/2 cup plus 2 T flour 
1/2 cup oil

2 Tbsp oil
One large chicken, cut up into pieces

1 cup ham, cut into small pieces

3 medium onions, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced & mashed
3 stalks celery, chopped
1-2 green peppers, de-seeded and chopped
2 cups chopped tomatoes (skin if you wish)

4-5 cups chicken stock
1 cup wine (a hearty red is best, but sauterne will do in a pinch)
1 tsp oregano
1/2 tsp thyme
1/8 tsp allspice
1/8 tsp cloves
2 Tbsp Lee & Perrin's (a good Cajun name)
2 tsp (plus or minus) Hot Sauce (like Tabasco)
1/8 tsp Pechaud Bitters (orange flavored.  You can also use Angostura)
salt & pepper to taste (some is needed)
2 cups (about 1 lb) okra, washed, destemmed, cut into 1/2" cylinders

1.  Mix 1/2 c. oil and flour in cast iron skillet & cook on medium low heat
	(lower if you're in doubt) for at least 1 hour, stirring (really
	scraping the bottom) at least once every 5 min.  It should be 
	a rich deep brown (or darker)
2.  Brown the chicken pieces in the 2 T oil over medium high heat.  Do not
	crowd the pieces, you don't want them to boil, but fry, baby, fry!
3.  Remove chicken to a plate, drain excess oil if the chicken has rendered
	much (ie: if there is more than 2 T in the pan).  Toss in the ham & 
	lightly brown.
4.  Remove the ham and (if necessary) add a pat or two of butter.  Toss in
	the onions & cook for a few minutes, until they begin to turn golden.
	Add the garlic & continue to cook for another minute or so.  Add
	the rest of the veggies and cook about 5 minutes until the tomatoes
	begin to lose their shape.  
5.  Add the roux to the veggies & stir.  Add the stock & the spices, then the
	meats & any juices that came out of them.  Stir thoroughly, then
	simmer covered for an hour.
6.  Add the okra and increase heat.  Cook uncovered for 1/2 hour.  Adjust
	salt & pepper.  
Serve over rice with file* (ground sassafras leaves) to season.  Goes well
with a salad, garlic bread and wine.  Serves 8 (or two Cajuns).
Sausage (spicy) may be used instead of ham.  If you start throwing in lima
beans & corn then you get slumgullian.  If you are fortunate enough to live
where you can get fresh seafood, shrimp and scallops can be tossed in 5
minutes before serving.

* file is used as a thickening agent when okra is out of season.  It is
redundant and even dangerous to add both, as they interact and may sort
of curdle the stew.  Some folks like to add it for flavor at the table,
even when okra has been used.  I do.

-- 
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ed@mtxinu.UUCP (Ed Gould) (09/18/85)

In article <11670@rochester.UUCP> nemo@rochester.UUCP (Wolfe) writes:

>> For gravies, which I like quite dark, burn the roux.

>Right-o! ...  The Cajuns
>really do burn their roux, slowly cooking it for a day or more (you gotta
>stir the stuff and cook it on a low fire) until it is black.

Close, but not quite.  Even a black roux is not burned, just cooked
until black.  For a wonderful discussion of roux, see _Chef_Paul_
_Prudhomme's_Louisiana_Kitchen_.  There's also a great discussion
of using various kinds of peppers in a single dish.  Actually, it's
a great cookbook overall.

-- 
Ed Gould                    mt Xinu, 2910 Seventh St., Berkeley, CA  94710  USA
{ucbvax,decvax}!mtxinu!ed   +1 415 644 0146

"A man of quality is not threatened by a woman of equality."