[net.cooks] Lean Beef

macrakis@harvard.ARPA (Stavros Macrakis) (11/07/85)

> The least lean [supermarket ground beef] ... up to twice as expensive
> as the leannest.  ...how much fat is removed by cooking...?

I believe the way markets calibrate the leanness is in fact to cook the
meat until it's very well done, and measure the fat released.  If you
like your meat rare or even medium, the fat content remains.  Indeed,
it's the fat content that gives most of the juiciness and taste.  I'm a
great believer in full-fat hamburger cooked rare.

An interesting side-effect of this mania for low-fat meat is that
certain cuts of meat that used to be considered tough and dry, and only
suitable for stewing, have now become highly prized.  A frugal cook
follows the market, so if you read competant cookbooks published before
the past 20 years or so, you will find wonderful stews and braises based
on these tough and dry cuts -- often larded for juiciness.  Beef shins
are the classic case: formerly very cheap, now more expensive at times
than sirloin.

For that matter, it used to be that ground beef was considerably
cheaper than whole meat.  I find it amusing that it is now as
expensive as the cheaper steaks, many of which have excellent taste
(what in Boston are called Blade Steaks, for instance -- not tough but
not tender, with a stripe of grisle in the middle, but excellent
flavor, and perfect for individual servings, running 6-16 oz.
depending on thickness).  Presumably, hamburger used to be made out of
the scraps and unsalable cuts of meat, while now, the demand for
hamburger is such that it is a direct competitor with whole meat in
allocation of the carcass.

What I don't understand is why ground beef has become so popular.  Is
it because it is still perceived as cheap despite its actual price?
Is it because people like hamburgers?  Is it because they are using
`casserole' recipes from soup cans involving Campbell's Cream of
Somethingorother, Kellogg's Rice Krispies, and Hamburger?

One hears that ground beef is versatile, but this has never been my
experience.  Versatility usually follows necessity; my father tells me
that chick peas were very `versatile' during the Occupation in Greece:
chick pea soup, chick pea `meatballs', chick pea bread, chick pea
salad, chick pea pancakes, chick pea croquettes, chick pea cake....

	-s