dennisg@fritz.UUCP (03/27/87)
In article <1929@hoptoad.uucp> gnu@hoptoad.uucp (John Gilmore) writes: >Anybody know exactly how these BSR systems work? I know they send a signal >over the AC wires, but what frequency? How is it modulated? What >components are used to send and receive it? All this and more can be found in various "Circuit Cellar" articles in Byte. Steve seems to write about BSR X-10 stuff every couple of years or so. If nobody else comes up with more precise references, I'll look it up. > The controlled >switches and outlets run about $12 apiece from DAK so it can't be >that complicated. Any custom chips involved, or would it be possible >to build my own circuitry to interface with it (e.g. to allow the BSR >controllers to control a stereo remote control, for example)? They are rather simple inside, but that's because they DO use custom chips! The wall cubes have a little chip (16-pin), the base stations have a 40-pin honker. I doubt that you could make them cheaper. If you did, they wouldn't look nearly as nice, and might not be as safe... But that's not what you're asking. You want X-10 compatible equipment that lets you send more complex signals. Like "send this 8-bit parallel word to module 3, where it will be presented in parallel". >I talked with a Leviton sales rep (they sell the stuff to electrical >contractors, typically for 4x the DAK price, though they have a full >line, not just 4 or 5 things) All the Leviton stuff is made by BSR. It's just that DAK doesn't carry the complete X-10 line. BSR does do business by mail. You can get their telephone number or address from the warrenty papers of BSR-marked units (i.e. not "Radio-Shack" marked stuff). > ...and he suggested that I just use a >controlled 120V outlet and have it run a relay. At $12 per switch, >plus relays, that could run to quite a bill, not to mention the space >required. The typical remote control has about 20 switches... Talk about overkill. Of course, you might find that the remote control's 20 keys are arranged in a 5 x 4 matrix, so you could get by with 9. Make that "kludge"...
dennisg@fritz.UUCP (03/31/87)
I promised more info on BSR X-10 stuff. Here goes with part 1, an overview for those who don't know about the X-10 system... The X-10 system allows you to remotely control lamps and appliances using signals injected into the normal AC power wiring. A must for gadget freaks, and handy for practically everyone else too. The system is easy to install. In most cases, you unplug the lamp that you want controlled, plug a plastic cube into the wall instead, and plug the lamp into the cube. If you get tired of looking at the cube, you can get a wall outlet with an X-10 receiver built into it. Pull your main breaker, remove the wall outlet, install X-10 outlet, reset breaker, plug in lamp. For built-in lamps, there are a couple of receiver models that replace the wall switch. Internally, there are two different types of X-10 receivers. Lamp modules are only to be used for incandescent lamps. The nice thing about them is that they also function as dimmers. With one stroke, you can make it possible to control any light in the house from your armchair of bedstand, and dim or brighten them at will. Lamp modules know that they are lamp modules. You can say "all lights on", and have no fear of turning on the toaster... Appliance modules are built with heavy duty microswitches thrown by solenoids. They can handle lots of current, but don't allow dimming. Suitable for your stereo, flourescent lights, fans, and small heaters. You run the show from a control panel with a bank of module switches and a bank of function switches. You start by touching one or more module switches. This is like saying "listen up modules 2 and 13!" Then hit the function switch for what you want it to do. Choices include: on, off, dim, and bright. If you chose "dim", the lamps plugged into the addressed modules will slowly get dimmer. Hold the switch down until the light reaches the level you want. There is also a panic switch that turns on all the lights, and a vacation switch that turns off everything. You can have as many control panels in the house as you want. For those who demand laptop control, there is an ultrasonic wand that lets you do anything you would want the console for. They have bells and whistles, too. One add-on allows you to call up over the telephone and manipulate the X-10 system. Another is a digital clock/timer that allows you to program lights coming on and off. Touted as a burgular deterrent, it also makes it possible to come home to a warm lit house when you have been working late. They also have a thermostat interface that lets you or the timer fiddle with the furnace remotely. Then there's the actual burgular alarm interface. It takes a normally-open or normally-closed loop and will turn on and flash selected lights or appliances when the circuit is activated. Possibly the ultimate gizmo in the set is the computer interface. The box looks like a command console, and can be used as such. The RS-232 interface allows your computer to turn lamps or appliances on or off, or dim lamps to the level of your choice. It also functions as a timer, but offers features and flexibility far beyond those of the ordinary timer unit. But you must use a computer to take advantage of this feature. Comes in flavors for several machines, with cable and software. I have the Macintosh version, and it's very well done. The system seems to have been designed by BSR, a maker of various consumer electronic gadgets, especially turntables and other stereo equipment. Many parts of the system are available under the "Leviton" name at hardware stores, and under private labels at Radio Shack and Sears. You can deal directly with the manufacturer (phone or mail), but you don't save any money in doing so. DAK, a mailorder house, has had various X-10 components on "close-out" for years. The X-10 remote control equipment seems to have spun off as an individual company from BSR. They can be reached at X-10 (USA) Inc. 185A LeGrand Ave. Northvale, NJ 07647 (201) 784-9700 (800) 526-0027 [Disclaimer: I love the system and own large chunks of it. I don't make a dime whether you buy this stuff or not.]
dennisg@fritz.UUCP (04/01/87)
Here's part 2 of the X-10 information, a bibliography o "Computerize a Home" by Steve Ciarcia Byte, January 1980, page 28 Notes: An overview of the X-10 system is presented, along with some photos and block diagrams of the commercial system. Special attention is given to the ultrasonic command wand which communicates with the base station and can control any of the units under the house code that the base station is set to. One suggestion is presented that uses a pair of CMOS MUX chips to simulate matrix closures in the control keypad. This approach is discouraged. Steve then goes on to describe an interface that takes commands from a parallel port and sends them ultrasonically to the X-10 box. $80, plus cable, interface, and power. o "Plug-in Remote Control System" by Steve Ciarcia Radio Electronics, September 1980, page 47 Notes: Better details on the inside of the X-10 system, including schematics of the base station, lamp module, and appliaance module. No buildable project, just lotsa nice info. o "A $5.25 Interface to the BSR X-10 Home COntrol System" by Alan Trimble Byte, September 1980, page 314 Notes: A Z-80 assembly routine is presented to directly drive a 40 kHz transducer. This provides a software-intensive, but low budget way to do what Steve Ciarcia did in Byte, January 1980, page 28. o "Apple X10 Control" by Wayne Arczynski Byte, December 1981, page 469 Notes: A 6502 version of Alan Trimble's software-driven ultrasonic transducer. This version is intended for the Apple II. o "Ask Byte" by Steve Ciarcia Byte, December 1981, page 254 Notes: More information about using relays to "press" buttons on an existing X-10 base station. Also a suggestion about bypassing the ultrasonic link by injecting the signal into the control circuitry via an opto- isolator. o "An 8080-Based Remote Appliance Controller" by David Staehlin Byte, January 1982, page 239 Notes: An optoisolator is used to couple a home computer into an existing base station. Most of the article is fancy control software to make it all work. A more recent article (Radio Electronics 1985, I think) describes a dedicated single-board computer for home control purposes. It includes direct generation of X-10 signals and injection into the AC line. A bit over a year ago, Steve Ciarcia described his "Home Run" computer system with similar capabilities. I can look these up, if you need them. Thanks for the chance to pay the net back for help I've gotten over the years. [Disclaimer- I like the X-10 system, but don't make a dime whether you buy it or not.]
dennisg@fritz.UUCP (04/07/87)
My mailer couldn't reply to sun!hoptoad!gnu, and this is general enough to post, so... --- How do I actually use X-10 stuff? I've only got a one-bedroom apartment, but it's pretty thoroughly wired with the X-10 line. Two lamps and a fan in the living room, a light in the kitchen, two lights and a heating pad (for my frog) in the bedroom. I have the timer, but unplugged it when I got the computer interface. The interface really blows the timer away! I also bought the telephone interface, but unplugged it after never having occasion to use it in two years. It's cheap enough to leave in, on the off-chance that I might use it, but some of my friends leave the phone ringing long enough to get the X-10 box, and think that it's a malfunctioning answering machine. I have control consoles in the living room and bedroom. These are the older tall style, with ultrasonic receivers. The kitchen has no base console yet, but the ultrasonic wand is kept there. It works nicely bounced off the hall wall into the living room. The bathroom is sadly devoid of X-10 equipment. The building is old, and the only AC outlet in the bathroom is built into the lamp over the mirror. Both the lamp and outlet are controlled by the wall switch (ugh). If I put an X-10 wall switch in, I'll have to disable the plug, lest a hair dryer nuke the switch. If I plug a module into the outlet, it's at the mercy of the wall switch. Sigh. I have another control console on order from DAK, along with a couple more modules. I believe that modules go for around $11, command consoles for $9.95, plus tax and shipping. Always nice to have spares... The only problem with the system is that the control console sometimes locks up and refuses to take ultrasonic commands or keyboard input. This has only been observed once or twice, and only when the TV is on. I suspect that high frequency noise from the TV jams the ultrasonic input. I moved the console a couple of feet and it hasn't happened since. --- More info about ultrasonic remote The ultrasonic wand does offer a complete set of controls: 16 units, on/off, dim/bright, all_lights_on/all_off. It takes one 9-V alkaline battery, and sucks real hard on it. Even without using the wand, you only get about 4 months before you have to replace it. Constant use drains it quickly. Carbon batteries don't last more than about a week and decrease range. I performed some minor surgery on my remote, putting a slide switch in series with the battery. Now it last a very long time :-) ! If you take this route, get a very small switch and carefully pick a place to install it. They don't leave a lot of room. I put mine on the right side, about half-way along the length of the unit. One side of the switch touches the case seam. It's handy to my thumb, holding the wand in my right palm, pressing buttons with left hand. I can get about 20 feet from my ultrasonic wand, line-of-sight, with fresh alkaline battery. You can bounce it off walls to go around corners. Perhaps the remote would offer better range and lower power if it used infra-red. Converting it should be easy, but I don't plan to try anytime soon. Note: the Sears control consoles, old tall style, do not have ultrasonic receivers in them. Saved a buck, I guess. I don't know if the new slim control consoles speak ultrasonic. The mini controlers, I think do not. --- Responses to sun!hoptoad!gnu Does your mention of Sears closing out X-10 stuff mean that the stuff is on sale for cheap? The radio control model sounds nice, but it looks like I need to live in a house to take advantage of it. Should be nice attached to the garage door opener...