[sci.electronics] How to save your car's electrical stuff?

cyamamot@girtab.usc.edu (Cliff Yamamoto) (11/28/89)

In article <1989Nov27.160950.13937@sj.ate.slb.com> poffen@molehill writes:
>My friend bought a Mazda MX-6 last year. Earlier this year the regulator on
>the alternater went berserk. As near as the dealer can figure, the voltage
>out of the alternater probably went as high as 100V! Everything, and I mean
>EVERYTHING electrical in the car blew out. Virtually every light bulb, all of
>the computers (engine, transmission, turbo boost, etc) blew out. The stereo
>smoked, the air conditioner fryed, the windshield wiper motor melted, the
>battery exploded. In addition, several wiring harnesses burned up.
>
>Russ Poffenberger               DOMAIN: poffen@sj.ate.slb.com

This got me thinking about the audio/ham-radio gear I have installed in my
car.  Can anyone confirm if the following would work:

  (-) 12 Vdc (+)  30 Amp
 +--- battery ---o-fuse-o--+----> to your favorite & expensive equipment
 |                         |
 |                         -
 |                         ^ 30 Amp +15 Vdc Zener diode  ( just match the
 |                         |                               diode rating with
 +-------------------------+----> car chassis              the fuse rating )

Are there any better ideas out there?  What can be done to clamp a large
voltage surge or at least blow out the fuse when a surge occurs?

Thanks,
Cliff

forbes@aries.uiuc.edu (Jeff Forbes) (11/28/89)

	How about MOV or ZNR transient/surge protectors?

wrf@mab.ecse.rpi.edu (Wm Randolph Franklin) (11/28/89)

In <6709@merlin.usc.edu> cyamamot@girtab.usc.edu (Cliff Yamamoto) writes:
>This got me thinking about the audio/ham-radio gear I have installed in my
>car.  Can anyone confirm if the following would work:
>
>  (-) 12 Vdc (+)  30 Amp
> +--- battery ---o-fuse-o--+----> to your favorite & expensive equipment
> |                         |
> |                         -
> |                         ^ 30 Amp +15 Vdc Zener diode  ( just match the
> |                         |                               diode rating with
> +-------------------------+----> car chassis              the fuse rating )
>

That looks reasonable with  a few  caveats.  The fuse  should be smaller
than  the Zener, and  be  quick blow, since you don't  want the Zener to
blow first.  If you  want to be fancy, run  the  car's ignition off this
circuit also, or have some other indicator, so you  know when there's an
overvoltage.

A high tech version  of  a  Zener  diode  is an LM385   (approx) voltage
regulator.  I used to use one to give 6V 2A out (from 12V in).  It got a
2" long heat sink practically too hot to touch, but survived.
-- 
						   Wm. Randolph Franklin
Internet: wrf@ecse.rpi.edu (or @cs.rpi.edu)    Bitnet: Wrfrankl@Rpitsmts
Telephone: (518) 276-6077;  Telex: 6716050 RPI TROU; Fax: (518) 276-6261
Paper: ECSE Dept., 6026 JEC, Rensselaer Polytechnic Inst, Troy NY, 12180

mberns@cygnet.UUCP (Mike Bernstein) (11/28/89)

 Please excuse my lack of a diagram but if you want to buld a circuit to 
blow a high current fuse at a specific overvoltage it will work a lot 
better to use an SCR triggered by the zener.  A very small SCR can blow
a 30 amp fuse.  You wil need a very big Zener, as overvoltage problems
will tend to creep up on you and melt the zener.  Also a 15V zener is 
too low.  Keeping tolerances and temperature variations in mind a threshold
of at least 17 volts is required.  I can't draw the circuit but I will
email a futurenet DASH4 file of it to anyone interested.

kristi@hpscdc.scd.hp.com (Kristi Bittner) (11/29/89)

I'd say an 18-20V trigger would be better - do you know how high the
voltage goes when your running the alternator?  Usually around 15V.
Most ICs that I've seen for automotives (that want to hang right on
the battery) are rated to around 28V.

Kristi Bittner
hplabs!hpscdd!kristi

djw@hpldsla.HP.COM (11/29/89)

>EVERYTHING electrical in the car blew out. Virtually every light bulb, all of
>the computers (engine, transmission, turbo boost, etc) blew out. 

As a broader issue (probably better for something.misc), what did the car do
without it's computer? Did it just die, was it safe?

David Williams
djw@hpldsla.hp.com, (djw)hpldsla/HP1900/00, (415) 857 6100

wrf@mab.ecse.rpi.edu (Wm Randolph Franklin) (11/30/89)

In <2571CD5D.238F@rpi.edu> wrf@mab.ecse.rpi.edu (Wm Randolph Franklin) writes:
>In <6709@merlin.usc.edu> cyamamot@girtab.usc.edu (Cliff Yamamoto) writes:
>>This got me thinking about the audio/ham-radio gear I have installed in my
>>car.  Can anyone confirm if the following would work:
>>
>>  (-) 12 Vdc (+)  30 Amp
>> +--- battery ---o-fuse-o--+----> to your favorite & expensive equipment
>> |                         |
>> |                         -
>> |                         ^ 30 Amp +15 Vdc Zener diode  ( just match the
>> |                         |                               diode rating with
>> +-------------------------+----> car chassis              the fuse rating )
>>
>
>That looks reasonable with  a few  caveats.  The fuse  should be smaller
>than  the Zener, and  be  quick blow, since you don't  want the Zener to
>blow first.  If you  want to be fancy, run  the  car's ignition off this
>circuit also, or have some other indicator, so you  know when there's an
>overvoltage.

I just  realized a serious omission  in my answer  - I assumed something
that might not be obvious.  What your proposed circuit does is this:

Your favorite equipment draws  an insignificant current  compared to the
battery's capability, so  before the fuse blows you  essentially have  a
Zener in series with the battery.  Now  if the voltage rises,  that poor
little Zener  is trying all  on  its own  to drag the  battery's voltage
down.  Unless it's a 200A 2000W Zener (do they exist?) it'll blow pretty
fast.  Your circuit works, if it does, because the fuse will blow first.
If the Zener blows first, you have no protection, and no indication that
the protection failed.

That's why  I said to use a  small,  quick blow  fuse.  Standard voltage
regulation circuits use a  resistor in series with  the Zener, and maybe
use the output to control a power transistor instead of feeding straight
to  the  load, if the load  is significant.   The  problem  with using a
resistor is that all the load current goes through it  so your equipment
doesn't get the full  voltage.  It's probably  better to use a regulator
chip, like the LM385.

Here's a crazy idea that should work, but which I haven't seen anywhere.
If the voltage is high for awhile  you might want to  know about it even
before   the fuse would  blow  normally.  If  you  use a   big  zener or
regulator, and wrap them together, as the voltage  rises,  the regulator
will get hotter and the fuse will tend to blow earlier.

-- 
						   Wm. Randolph Franklin
Internet: wrf@ecse.rpi.edu (or @cs.rpi.edu)    Bitnet: Wrfrankl@Rpitsmts
Telephone: (518) 276-6077;  Telex: 6716050 RPI TROU; Fax: (518) 276-6261
Paper: ECSE Dept., 6026 JEC, Rensselaer Polytechnic Inst, Troy NY, 12180