[sci.electronics] Switching from 5V to 120V

dmartin@uceng.UC.EDU (Dale Martin) (02/22/90)

I have designed a circuit using ttl logic chips that activates LEDs.  I would
like it to activate some 25W bulbs (one at a time).  What is the best approach?
Could I use relays, or is the switching voltage too low?  How about a transis-
tor?  Aren't there triacs or something that do just that?  
ANY suggestions would be appreciated, the more specefic (part #'s and such)
the better.

Thanks!
_______________________________________________________________________________
To the beautiful and the wise,        |                    dmartin@uceng.uc.edu
the mirror always lies.  -Rush        |                    -Dale Martin
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

cook@stout.ucar.edu (Forrest Cook) (02/22/90)

I would suggest looking into solid state relays.  They are optoisolated
triacs with some additional goodies inside.  Your circuit can drive the
led inside of the SSR without any changes and the SSR does the dirty
work.  They can be had new in the $10 to $50 range depending on how
much power you want to control.  Surplus electronics stores often carry
them for a few bucks each.

 ^   ^  Forrest Cook - Beware of programmers who carry screwdrivers - LB
/|\ /|\ cook@stout.ucar.edu (The preceeding was all my OPINION)
/|\ /|\ {husc6|rutgers|ames|gatech}!ncar!stout!cook
/|\ /|\ {uunet|ucbvax|allegra|cbosgd}!nbires!ncar!stout!cook

henry@utzoo.uucp (Henry Spencer) (02/22/90)

In article <3709@uceng.UC.EDU> dmartin@uceng.UC.EDU (Dale Martin) writes:
>I have designed a circuit using ttl logic chips that activates LEDs.  I would
>like it to activate some 25W bulbs (one at a time).  What is the best approach?
>Could I use relays, or is the switching voltage too low?  How about a transis-
>tor?  Aren't there triacs or something that do just that?  

Relays are possible, but the best way (my opinion) is to use a 3011 or
one of its relatives -- an optoisolator with a small triac as its output --
to drive a larger triac.  The 3011 datasheet (from, e.g., Motorola) goes
into how.  This gives you silent, fast, precise switching.  The larger
triac can be pretty generic, although it's nice to get an insulated-case
type so your heatsink isn't electrically hot.
-- 
"The N in NFS stands for Not, |     Henry Spencer at U of Toronto Zoology
or Need, or perhaps Nightmare"| uunet!attcan!utzoo!henry henry@zoo.toronto.edu

grege@gold.GVG.TEK.COM (Gregory Ebert) (02/23/90)

In article <3709@uceng.UC.EDU> dmartin@uceng.UC.EDU (Dale Martin) writes:
>
>I have designed a circuit using ttl logic chips that activates LEDs.  I would
>like it to activate some 25W bulbs (one at a time).  What is the best approach?
>Could I use relays, or is the switching voltage too low?  How about a transis-
>tor?  Aren't there triacs or something that do just that?  
>ANY suggestions would be appreciated, the more specefic (part #'s and such)
>the better.
>
	There are a few things you can do. First of all, you CAN have common
	ground for the TTL and the 120 VAC bulbs if you are CAUTIOUS. If
	you are willing to hunt around, you can get some opto-triacs. This
	is obviously the safest way to do it. An opto-triac's control side
	is just an LED, so you have that one licked. The other side is
	basically like a relay contact if you run it on AC or pulsed-DC.
	You should put an inductor in series with the light bulb to
	protect the triac from 'di/dt' problems. A 10uH coil will give
	you protection up to a di/dt of ~20A/usec (reasonable) for 120VAC.
	If you use a larger coil, thats OK. Radio Snack sells some $0.79
	coils that are perfect.

	The other way is to use standard SCR's (avail @ Radio Snack).
	The solution has 2 parts : (1) You need to get the +5 volt and 120
	VAC supplies to the same ground, and (2) Drive the lamps. SCR's will
	conduct for only 1/2 cycle (versus full cycle for triacs), so you
	will want to switch to 50W bulbs. The advantage is that SCR's have
	a simpler gate-drive circuit.
	
	The cheapest way is to use the standard transformer/bridge/capacitor
	supply for your +5 volt stuff, and connect it to the neutral side
	of the AC line. Before I get flamed, I want you all to know that
	I have done this for years and I'm still alive. You have to be
	careful about using test equipment such as scopes, etc. As long
	as you dont put 120 VAC a-c-r-o-s-s TTL, all is fine. An SCR's
	gate can be driven by TTL with a 100 ohm resistor in series. If
	your SCR has a lower gate current, say 1-5 mA, use a 1K. The SCR
	anode is connected to one side of the light bulb. The other side
	of the light bulb is connected thru a 10uH coil to the HOT
	side of the AC line. I strongly suggest you use a fuse. The cathode
	of the SCR connects to the ground of the TTL supply AND the neutral
	side of the AC line. If you switch the hot and neutral wires, the
	beastie will still work, but if you accidentally touch the circuit
	'ground' you might get surprised !. One point worth mentioning here
	is that the NEUTRAL wire is physically tied to the earth near your
	KW-hr meter, so you can PRESUMABLY touch it without getting shocked.
	BUT !!! there will be voltage drops throughout your house wiring
	along this line due to resistive and inductive effects, which can
	result in dangerous voltages with respect to ground, so be careful.

	The last, and most expensive, way is to use an isolation transformer
	and hook the rest up as detailed above. Now you dont have to worry
	as much about getting shocked if you always remember to touch only
	one circuit node at a time.

kenny@m.cs.uiuc.edu (02/24/90)

Henry Spencer writes:
>Relays are possible, but the best way (my opinion) is to use a 3011 or
>one of its relatives -- an optoisolator with a small triac as its output --
>to drive a larger triac.

An alternative to this is something along the lines of a Potter &
Brumfield OA16-66, which has a one-amp triac on board -- more than
enough for the 25-watt load that the original poster envisioned.  It's
in a 16-pin DIP, and needs a heat sink, but the package is insulated.

5-volt relays still have the optoisolator approach beat if parts cost
is the major issue, but are slow to switch, noisy (both acoustically
and electrically), tend to fry driver transistors, and tend to fail at
the crucial moment.  I agree with Henry about optoisolators.

Kevin	KE9TV

mikemc@mustang.ncr-fc.FtCollins.NCR.com (Mike McManus) (02/28/90)

In article <801@gold.GVG.TEK.COM> grege@gold.GVG.TEK.COM (Gregory Ebert) writes:
>   In article <3709@uceng.UC.EDU> dmartin@uceng.UC.EDU (Dale Martin) writes:
>   >
>   >I have designed a circuit using ttl logic chips that activates LEDs.  I would
>   >like it to activate some 25W bulbs (one at a time).  What is the best approach?
>   >Could I use relays, or is the switching voltage too low?  How about a transis-
>   >tor?  Aren't there triacs or something that do just that?  
>   >ANY suggestions would be appreciated, the more specefic (part #'s and such)
>   >the better.
>   >
>       There are a few things you can do. First of all, you CAN have common
>	ground for the TTL and the 120 VAC bulbs if you are CAUTIOUS. If
>	you are willing to hunt around, you can get some opto-triacs. This
>	is obviously the safest way to do it. An opto-triac's control side
>	is just an LED, so you have that one licked. The other side is
>	basically like a relay contact if you run it on AC or pulsed-DC.
>	You should put an inductor in series with the light bulb to
>	protect the triac from 'di/dt' problems. A 10uH coil will give
>	you protection up to a di/dt of ~20A/usec (reasonable) for 120VAC.
>	If you use a larger coil, thats OK. Radio Snack sells some $0.79
>	coils that are perfect.

These beasties are actually VERY easy to work with, but they are a bit pricey
(expect about $10 a pop, which I realize can be an issue for a student :-).
They come in various flavors: AC output, DC output, DC input, and (I would
guess) AC input.  They are often refered to as "solid-state relay modules" or
"I/O modules", and most often used in micro-processor based industrial controls
and such (at least that's where I've seen them).  They are small (about the
size of a deck of cards) and modular: can plug in and out of an appropraiate
socket.  I've even seen boards sold which connect up to PC's and allow about a
dozen or so modules to plug in for PC-based control systems. 

If you decide to go the SCR route, I would still suggest using opto-couplers to
the input.  This will isolate your TTL stuff from the nasty AC environment.
This will help out in the "noise" department (trust me, you *DON'T* want to
debug a system which has noise problems!).  Good luck!
--
Disclaimer: All spelling and/or grammer in this document are guaranteed to be
            correct; any exseptions is the is wurk uv intter-net deemuns.

Mike McManus (mikemc@ncr-fc.FtCollins.ncr.com)  
NCR Microelectronics                
2001 Danfield Ct.                   ncr-fc!mikemc@ncr-sd.sandiego.ncr.com, or
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