[sci.electronics] Jamming Stereo Amplifiers

commgrp@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (BACS Data Communications Group) (08/30/90)

henry@zoo.toronto.edu writes:

>In article <55577@iuvax.cs.indiana.edu> commgrp@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (BACS Data Communications Group) writes:
>>He wound a few turns of heavily insulated wire around the perimeter of 
>>his living-room ceiling, and connected them in series with a spark gap 
>>and the secondary of a neon-sign transformer...

>Uh, guys, broadband jamming, which is what this is, can easily get
>someone killed by interfering with emergency communications or aircraft
>navigation.  It's not a good idea.

Spark-gap transmitters _are_ illegal.  Near-field magnetic induction 
signal strength decreases as the cube of the distance from the source.  
Thyristor lamp-dimmers are a more serious source of interference.

BTW, the device described above will jam a stereo even when it's not 
in radio mode.

Non-electronic ways to neutralize stereos:

(1)  Train a large dog to retrieve "ghetto blasters" and deposit them 
in the nearest body of water.

(2)  The ultimate weapon against portable stereos is a H&K MP-5 with 
integral suppressor and laser sight.  See your local class-III 
firearms dealer.

(3)  I know a medical doctor who waited until his inconsiderate 
neighbors were away, then told his landlord that he had locked his key 
in his apartment.  The landlord considered him a trustworthy fellow, 
and lent him the master key.  He entered the neighbors' apartment and 
sabotaged their stereo in several subtle ways.

--

Frank Reid     reid@ucs.indiana.edu

grege@gold.GVG.TEK.COM (Greg Ebert) (08/30/90)

Actually, this technique will work on other devices. Er, um, make that
everything. Period.

Go down to the offending neighbor's elctrical panel and disconnect the
neutral line. Touch it to one 'hot' lead, then the other. Now every
appliance has gotten a taste of 220 volts. Hopefully his breakers
didn't go CLICK before the nasty deed was done.

Should be possible. The condo I used to live in had 4 conductor cable
(GND/NEUTRAL/L1/L2). The neutral line was connected to ground at the
meter/distribution panel, NOT at the breaker panel inside the unit.

v058qj6n@ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu (08/30/90)

In article <1378@gold.GVG.TEK.COM>, grege@gold.GVG.TEK.COM (Greg Ebert) writes...

>Actually, this technique will work on other devices. Er, um, make that
>everything. Period.

>Go down to the offending neighbor's elctrical panel and disconnect the
>neutral line. Touch it to one 'hot' lead, then the other. Now every
>appliance has gotten a taste of 220 volts. Hopefully his breakers
>didn't go CLICK before the nasty deed was done.
	

	This is dangerous as you cause a big fire in the offending neighbor's
 apartment. Is that the essence of your scheme,burn him out ?


>Should be possible. The condo I used to live in had 4 conductor cable
>(GND/NEUTRAL/L1/L2). The neutral line was connected to ground at the
>meter/distribution panel, NOT at the breaker panel inside the unit.
			
						Klymaxx

ee5391aa@hydra.unm.edu (Duke McMullan n5gax) (08/31/90)

In article <1378@gold.GVG.TEK.COM> grege@gold.GVG.TEK.COM (Greg Ebert) writes:
>Go down to the offending neighbor's elctrical panel and disconnect the
>neutral line. Touch it to one 'hot' lead, then the other. Now every
>appliance has gotten a taste of 220 volts. Hopefully his breakers
>didn't go CLICK before the nasty deed was done.

Touching the leads is unnecessary. Just float the neutral. What you have is
a bunch of 110VAC appliances in a sort of funny series/parallel combination
across a 220VAC load. Some of them draw heavy loads, i.e., have low resistance
/impedance. It follows that it will have a low voltage drop. The other items
in series have an excellent chance of NOT having a similar collective power
rating...which means that they get OD'd on voltage. The neat thing about this
is that it's an ongoing problem for the nasty neighbor (whom we assume deser-
ves such treatment) and he'll eventually have to get an electrician out to
fix it. In the meantime, perhaps you've reconnected the neutral....  ;^)

Of course, if you share a fusebox with said neighbor.... :-(


Anyone recall Jerry Pournelle's description of the Great Power Surge this
past year? Ideas abound!



					Enuf,
					   d


--
   "If caving in the Guads is like heaven, caving in Lechuguilla is like
	having sex with the gods when you get there."
				-- Dan Legnini, Windy City Grotto, 1990
   Duke McMullan n5gax nss13429r phon505-255-4642 ee5391aa@hydra.unm.edu

gordon@prls.UUCP (Gordon Vickers) (08/31/90)

In article <1990Aug31.034620.6474@ariel.unm.edu> ee5391aa@hydra.unm.edu (Duke McMullan n5gax) writes:
>In article <1378@gold.GVG.TEK.COM> grege@gold.GVG.TEK.COM (Greg Ebert) writes:
->>Go down to the offending neighbor's elctrical panel and disconnect the
->>neutral line. Touch it to one 'hot' lead, then the other. Now every
->>appliance has gotten a taste of 220 volts. Hopefully his breakers
->>didn't go CLICK before the nasty deed was done.
->
->Touching the leads is unnecessary. Just float the neutral. What you have is
->a bunch of 110VAC appliances in a sort of funny series/parallel combination
->across a 220VAC load. Some of them draw heavy loads, i.e., have low resistance
->/impedance. It follows that it will have a low voltage drop. The other items
->in series have an excellent chance of NOT having a similar collective power
->rating...which means that they get OD'd on voltage. The neat thing about this
->is that it's an ongoing problem for the nasty neighbor (whom we assume deser-
->ves such treatment) and he'll eventually have to get an electrician out to
->fix it. In the meantime, perhaps you've reconnected the neutral....  ;^)
->

      I certainly don't condone this and caution you that it is potentially
   VERY dangerous.

      HOWERVER, if one is going to do something, at least give it a bit of
    thought and do it right.  After disconnecting the nuetral, wrap the
    end of the wire with electrical tape and reconnect it, tightening the
    screw lightly.  This will keep the electricain guessing for another
    $30 (half hour?) or longer since everything will appear to the eye
    as normal.