dlou@dino.ucsd.edu (Dennis Lou) (09/18/90)
It's been a while since I etched a board. Now, I think I want to do a Radio Electronics project. They supply the pattern in the magazine. It's too intricate to just lay down transfers on copperclad and I don't want to spend the time and money to buy the board outright. I assume the best way is to photoetch. So my question is: What's the best way to photoetch a board assuming you etch boards on a limited basis and you only have access to basement materials/facilities? -- Dennis Lou Disclaimer: I don't use lame disks. dlou@dino.ucsd.edu "But Yossarian, what if everyone thought that way?" [backbone]!ucsd!dino!dlou "Then I'd be crazy to think any other way!"
francis@cs.ua.oz.au (Francis Vaughan) (09/19/90)
In article <12692@sdcc6.ucsd.edu>, dlou@dino.ucsd.edu (Dennis Lou) writes: |> |> It's been a while since I etched a board. Now, I think I want to do a |> Radio Electronics project. They supply the pattern in the magazine. |> It's too intricate to just lay down transfers on copperclad and I |> don't want to spend the time and money to buy the board outright. I |> assume the best way is to photoetch. |> So my question is: What's the best way to photoetch a board assuming |> you etch boards on a limited basis and you only have access to |> basement materials/facilities? I have had good success with UV sensitive resist and a photolith of the PC pattern. I used to use a spray on resist that would develop in a weak Sodium Hydroxide solution. I have been told that this is no longer available due to a carcinogen scare. Pre-coated boards are generally available and don't seem too pricey. Need special developer. Here at Adelaide Uni the students association does a lot of printing (leaflets, whats on sheets etc) and have an in house process camera. They are happy to make a photolith film at essentially cost price. You may be able to find someone on your campus to do the same. The lith is the most costly part of the excercise. They can do either positive or negative depending on the needs of your resist process. Commercial printing places charge lots for this service. I built a simple vacuum board (a thin flat box with grooves on the top and holes in the grooves that penetrate into the box, and a hole in the bottom of the box to connect to a vacuum cleaner, a few minutes work if you have a router, a bit longer if you have to carve the grooves (about 1/8" wide and high)) onto which I place the coated board and then the artwork and then some cling-wrap. Start the vacuum and the whole lot goes very solid. Expose. I expose in the sun, (about 3 minutes in bright sunlight) or you can buy an appropriate lamp. If you try the sun you should do a few trail runs to get the exposure right for your combination of chemicals and weather. The results I have had have been consistently better than bought boards. It only remains to drill the board. (Get a tungsten carbide drill bit.) Hope this is of some help. Francis Vaughan.
tmp@doc.ic.ac.uk (Trevor Peacock) (09/21/90)
In reply to an article by dlou@dino.ucsd.edu (Dennis Lou), francis@cs.ua.oz.au (Francis Vaughan) writes: >I built a simple vacuum board (a thin flat box with grooves on the top >and holes in the grooves that penetrate into the box, and a hole in the >bottom of the box to connect to a vacuum cleaner, a few minutes work >if you have a router, a bit longer if you have to carve the grooves >(about 1/8" wide and high)) onto which I place the coated board and then >the artwork and then some cling-wrap. Start the vacuum and the whole lot >goes very solid. Expose. I expose in the sun, (about 3 minutes in bright >sunlight) or you can buy an appropriate lamp. If you try the sun you >should do a few trail runs to get the exposure right for your combination >of chemicals and weather. The results I have had have been consistently >better than bought boards. It only remains to drill the board. (Get >a tungsten carbide drill bit.) > >Hope this is of some help. > > Francis Vaughan. I saw a very cheap alternative for this in a magazine some years ago. Basically what you need is one of those zip up plastic bags, (big enough to hold the pcb) a piece of foam rubber and another board about the same size as the pcb. The foam is sandwiched between the pcb (light sensitive face outwards) and the other board. The layout sheet is placed on top of the pcb and the whole lot put in the bag. Squash the bag to expel most of the air and zip it up - the layout should stay in place for long enough to expose the pcb. Cheers, Trev.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Trevor Peacock, | Tel : 071 589 5111 X 5052 | JANET : tmp@uk.ac.ic.doc Department of Computing, | DARPA : tmp@doc.ic.ac.uk Imperial College, \ or tmp%uk.ac.ic.doc@nsfnet-relay.ac.uk 180 Queens Gate,London SW7 2BZ | UUCP : tmp@icdoc.UUCP or ..!ukc!icdoc!tmp