charless@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Charles R. Sullivan) (01/16/91)
There are a lot of different CFs available--there is probably one that overcomes your objections to the others. In article <1991Jan9.171802.509@amd.com> phil@brahms.amd.com (Phil Ngai) writes: > >I don't like the compact fluorescents at OSH. They are ok, but >not very bright. My favorite is the Lights of America Q-lite, >available at Target and Home Depot. It's equivalent to a 75 >watt, vs the 60 at OSH. Also, I think they are non-radioactive >while the OSH Panasonics do have radioactivity, and the Q-lite >turns on in a more attractive way. The Philips SL*18 is also >nice but only the Home Club sells them and they are by far >the most expensive product with no significant advantage over >the Q-lite. > >I have four Q-lites in my bathroom. I used to object to CFs because >they weren't bright enough (you can't get them in a 100 watt >flavor) but I think I have solved that problem now with my 300 >watts (equivalent) of light. > >-- >seifert@asylum.sf.ca.us is responsible for the >Ethernet slide latch. There is at least one 100W equivalent availble. It is an electronic one made by panasonic, and available by mail from Save Energy Company in San Francisco (800-326-2120). (For those of you about to post saying "I have a Panasonic electronic, and it's only a 75W equivalent," Panasonic makes at least two different electronic bulbs.) An important thing to know if you are trying a CF lamp for the first time is that, although it comes on almost instantly, it takes a few minutes to reach full brightness. I have known several people who have been fooled by this, and thought the CFs they were trying were no good. Small amounts of radioactive elements are sometimes used in the starters of magnetic ballasted lamps. It's not enough to be dangerous, but if you don't like it, you can just stick to electronic ballasted lamps--they don't need starters, and so never have radioactiviy. If size is your concern, there are some very small ones available. The Dulux EL series from Osram is quite small, 2 1/4 inches diameter; the length depends on wattage. If this still isn't small enough, there is one system that has a ballast that plugs into the wall. You plug your lamp into the ballast, and screw just the actual fluorescent tube into the socket of your lamp. It is smaller in diameter than an incandesant, and it only sticks 4 1/2 inches out of the socket. I've tried and liked these last two. I've also tried and liked the reflector version of the Dulux EL. No, I am in no way associated with the Save Energy company, but yes, their catalog is the best source I've found for CF lamps, and I recommend it to anyone interested in the above lamps, and more. Just for completeness, if you think fluorescent color is bad, you probably haven't seen the new CF lamps. If you've seen the good color in the new CFs, and want it for other flourescents--it is available. For example try the GE SPX30 for an incandescant color, the SPX35 for a slightly more white, less redish-yellowish color. SP30 and SP35 are cheaper. Other brands have equivalents, ask or a cross reference. Charlie Sullivan charless@cory.berkeley.edu
sec@cs.umn.edu (Stephen E. Collins) (01/17/91)
In <10215@pasteur.Berkeley.EDU> charless@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Charles R. Sullivan) writes: >>I have four Q-lites in my bathroom. I used to object to CFs because >>they weren't bright enough (you can't get them in a 100 watt >>flavor) but I think I have solved that problem now with my 300 >>watts (equivalent) of light. A number of others have made similar comparisons. Light is measured in lumens, not watts. Comparing watts will give you absolutely no idea of the difference in light output. Even with the same technology, it is a poor measure: two sixty-watt standard light bulbs (120 watts) won't give you nearly as much light as a single 100-watt standard light bulb. When you look at different technologies, the difference is even greater (e.g., hologen or fluorescent). TELL PRESIDENT BUSH WE CAN WAIT: (202) 456-1111; FAX: (202) 456-2883 Send a Telegram (charge to phone, VISA/MC/AMEX): (800) 325-6000 Stephen E. Collins University of Minnesota sec@boombox.micro.umn.edu
phil@brahms.amd.com (Phil Ngai) (01/17/91)
In article <1991Jan16.161148.3458@cs.umn.edu> sec@cs.umn.edu (Stephen E. Collins) writes: |In <10215@pasteur.Berkeley.EDU> charless@cory.Berkeley.EDU (Charles R. Sullivan) writes: |>>I have four Q-lites in my bathroom. I used to object to CFs because |>>they weren't bright enough (you can't get them in a 100 watt |>>flavor) but I think I have solved that problem now with my 300 |>>watts (equivalent) of light. | |A number of others have made similar comparisons. Light is measured in |lumens, not watts. Comparing watts will give you absolutely no idea |of the difference in light output. Even with the same technology, it Which is why I said "100 watt flavor" and "300 watts equivalent". Most people relate to light in terms of the wattage of an incandescent bulb. Most people wouldn't know how many 20 watt CFs they need for a given application. |light bulb. When you look at different technologies, the difference |is even greater (e.g., hologen or fluorescent). That's the whole idea, that CFs give more lumens/watt, but since most people don't know how many lumens an incandescent gives off, it's easier to talk in terms of "equivalent" wattage. -- The Am386s are coming!
chased@rbbb.Eng.Sun.COM (David Chase) (01/24/91)
phil@brahms.amd.com (Phil Ngai) writes: >That's the whole idea, that CFs give more lumens/watt, but since most >people don't know how many lumens an incandescent gives off, it's >easier to talk in terms of "equivalent" wattage. Ugh. No doubt true, but all the GE bulbs at least list both lumens and expected bulb life. It's useful to watch out for this when reading CF advertising literature, because their estimates of the lumens produced by a "60 watt" bulb often does not match what the 60 watt bulbs in the supermarket say, and the mismatch almost always favors the CF bulb (e.g., one company's "75 watt equivalent CF" puts out only as much light as a 60 watt bulb incandescent, at least if you believe the info provided by GE for the bulb). Caveat emptor. Now, can anyone tell me how much light a standard 6-volt bicycle tail-lamp emits, and (lacking a ready reference) what's the conversion from lumens to candelas? I'm trying to compare high-efficiency LEDs with standard bulbs. David Chase Sun