JKOSS00@RICEVM1.BITNET (Jordan Kossack) (01/23/91)
I'm looking for information on car alarm transmitters - not
Lo-Jack, rather those little key-chain transmitters that turn
the alarm on/off remotely. I seem to recall folk saying (on
rec.radio.shortwave - about a year ago) that they operated at
310 MHz or thereabouts.
Specifically, I would like to know actual frequencies, the
modulation method, protocols, etc. Anyone with information
is welcome to send e-mail or post if you think it is of
general interest. I'm just curious and not related to any
international car theft ring. :-0
However, I have wondered if the number of individual codes
was low enough that one could deactivate all the car alarms
in the area (within a couple of seconds) by transmitting all
of the codes. Those alarms get really annoying when they
all go off at once during a thunderstorm . . . ;-)
-
jkoss00@ricevm1.rice.edu | Jordan Kossack | n5qvi
-----------------------------------------------------------
Congress has a distinguished tradition of completely
misunderstanding the Constitution and not having a clue
about what it's like. -- Earl Ryan [ Nightline, 4 Dec ]wrt@willie.cray.com (William Taylor (1446)) (01/24/91)
In the back of Popular Electronics and Modern Electronics, a company called 'Visitect, Inc.' sells transmitters and receivers. I just received my order from them but have not yet installed it in my car. They have 2 models: 1) $25, 1 button transmitter and receiver (TTL), 300MHz, 5 volts dc (xmitter and receiver), range 60 feet, no definable codes. 2) $50, 2 button transmitter and receiver (CMOS), 318MHz, 12 volt (xmitter) and 10-24 volts dc receiver, range 300 feet, 59049 definable codes (set by soldering 10 pins to 1 of 3 positions on both xmitter and receiver). Looking at the parts I purchased, so far things look in order and I'm now building the circuits to connect to the lock/unlock for my car (already has power door locks) [2 extra chips I think]. The transmitter fits on my keychain and the receiver is a few inches of board. I'm not sure if this answers your questions, but it may help. -- William Taylor Cray Research, Inc. wrt@steve.cray.com
P.A.Wilson@newcastle.ac.uk (P.A. Wilson) (01/24/91)
This would be real useful to me, I've had my car stolen twice already
this year,
and have resorted to building a car alarm. All the gizmos, U/S movement
detection,
I/R heat detection, Vibration/shock detection, door detectors,
immobilisers etc etc
And this kind of arming scheme would slot in very neatly !
)___ Peter A. Wilson
/ \ ) Janet : P.A.Wilson@uk.ac.newcastle
/ / _/__ ARPA : P.A.Wilson@newcastle.ac.uk
/___ /_ / _ )___ UUCP : ...ukc!newcastle!P.A.Wilsonotto@tukki.jyu.fi (Otto J. Makela) (01/26/91)
In article <1991Jan24.132747.8663@newcastle.ac.uk> P.A.Wilson@newcastle.ac.uk (P.A. Wilson) writes:
This would be real useful to me, I've had my car stolen twice already
this year, and have resorted to building a car alarm. All the gizmos,
U/S movement detection, I/R heat detection, Vibration/shock detection,
door detectors, immobilisers etc etc
And this kind of arming scheme would slot in very neatly !
One more idea for those with electric fuel pumps on their cars instead of
mechanical ones. Have a silent alarm circuit disable the pump, so that the
car thief will get the car started and can drive it for some time but then
it runs out of fuel and will not start again. Of course, the car can still
get cannibalized...
You could also add an electrically controlled valve into the fuel line.
--
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