[sci.electronics] Help Identify this part

JXS118@psuvm.psu.edu (Jeff Siegel) (02/03/91)

My friend has an appliance that heats 2 cups of water for coffee or tea
that stopped working. The diagram of the appliance is such:

                     --------------------        -----------
Power cord >---------| Power switch &   |--------| Unknown |
                     | Thermal cutoff?  |        -----------
                     --------------------             |
                             /------------------------+
                             |                        |
                     ------------------        -----------------
                     | Neon Indicator |        |  Heating Coil |
                     ------------------        -----------------
                             |                        |
Power cord <-----------------+------------------------/

I think the power switch has a thermal cutoff in it since the switch has
a metal can that is pressed against the bottom of the heating cup. The
unknown device reminds me of a high-current diode ( It is a cylinder with
radial leads ) that says:

Patented
Microtemp (R)

4333A1
SXPK169C

What is it and where can I get a replacement?

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Jeff Siegel                   |            JXS118 at PSUVM            |
| 24 Atherton Hall              |            JXS118@psuvm.psu.edu       |
| 862-5124                      |                          .....        |
+-------------------------------+---------------------------------------+

jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) (02/04/91)

It's a simple thermostat with a trip (open) point slightly above boiling
(100C+??). It should be a dead short when cold. It should open up if you hold
a lighter to it.

jb@falstaff.mae.cwru.edu (Jim Berilla) (02/05/91)

In article <1991Feb4.135735.16848@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@cica4.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
>It's a simple thermostat with a trip (open) point slightly above boiling
>(100C+??). It should be a dead short when cold. It should open up if you hold
>a lighter to it.

Close.  It's a thermaly activated electrical fuse, not a thermostat.  The
part number gives the opening temperature.  (I think it was ????165C, it
opens at 165 degrees C.)  Once open, it should never close again.  They're
put in coffee makers, etc. to keep the thing from catching fire if it runs
out of water.


-- 
      Jim Berilla / jb@falstaff.cwru.edu / 216-368-6776
"My opinions are my own, except on Wednesday mornings at 9 AM,
           when my opinions are those of my boss."

dmturne@PacBell.COM (Dave Turner) (02/06/91)

In article <91033.142929JXS118@psuvm.psu.edu> JXS118@psuvm.psu.edu (Jeff Siegel) writes:
>I think the power switch has a thermal cutoff in it since the switch has
>a metal can that is pressed against the bottom of the heating cup. The
>Patented
>Microtemp (R)
>
>4333A1
>SXPK169C
>
>What is it and where can I get a replacement?

It is a thermal cutoff. My cross-reference isn't handy at the moment but
I'd guess that it opens irreversably at 169 degrees C.

RCA sells replacements but then so does Radio Shack.

The RS catalog lists three:

	141 C
	128 C
	228 C

and says that other values are available on special order.

I use the RCA parts myself.

Don't forget that they must be crimped on; don't solder them.


-- 
Dave Turner	415/823-2001	{att,bellcore,sun,ames,decwrl}!pacbell!dmturne

wolfgang@wsrcc.com (Wolfgang S. Rupprecht) (02/06/91)

JXS118@psuvm.psu.edu (Jeff Siegel) writes:

>My friend has an appliance that heats 2 cups of water for coffee or
>tea that stopped working. I think the power switch has a thermal
>cutoff in it since the switch has a metal can that is pressed against
>the bottom of the heating cup. The unknown device reminds me of a
>high-current diode ( It is a cylinder with radial leads ) that says:
>Patented Microtemp (R) 4333A1 SXPK169C What is it and where can I get
>a replacement?

As other folks have pointed out it is a thermal fuse.  If its like the
one in my Hamilton-Beach coffee maker, and it's open, its dead.  In my
case, since I still had a series bi-metal thermal cutoff I just
bypassed the thermal fuse.  The coffee maker worked fine for about 3
mounths and then quite literally melted down.  It appears that the
bi-metal thermal switches sometimes fail by sticking closed.  The
thermal fuse is to prevent any catastrophies.

In short don't just replace the thermal fuse.  It will just blow again
in short order.  It is the symptom not the problem.  You have to
replace the primary thermal switch also.

-wolfgang
-- 
Wolfgang Rupprecht    wolfgang@wsrcc.com (or) uunet!wsrcc!wolfgang
Snail Mail Address:   Box 6524, Alexandria, VA 22306-0524