bender@oobleck.Eng.Sun.COM (Michael Bender) (02/06/91)
Well, I got a little less than 1/2 of my X-10 home control system installed and working (not really that difficult to get it working, but plugging those little lamp dimmer modules into the wall socket is a real bear!! :->). I've got most of the wall-switch-controlled fixtures in my house converted to the X-10 wall switches, and a few table/clip-on lamps connected to the plug-in dimmer modules. I did kind of a neat hack for the outside porch light/garage work light, described in my previous X-10 posting. I got a chance to try it out today when I got home from work, and it was pretty neat. I pulled up in front of my house, hit the old garage-door-opener button on my bike, and the porch light and garage work light came on, and I could finally find my keys to open the front door without fumbling through the whole key ring! The 555 timer worked like a charm, giving me about 3-1/2 minutes of lights on time, enought to get in the front door, open the garage and get my bike in. As I thought about the system I have set up at home on the way to wrok this morning, I lamented the fact that the universal controller isn't more programmable, so when I get the X-10 chip specs it looks like I'm going to build a more intelligent interface for the system. I took apart one of the mini-controllers that R.S. sells for $12 to see if I could get it to send codes for unit numbers 9-16. It really annoyed me that this controller, while a pretty good deal at $12, only supported the first eight unit numbers (1-8), with no provision to access unit numbers 9-16, so after a little digging, I noticed that the unit number range switch (1-4 or 5-8) was really just feeding a binary number into the X-10 chip in the controller, so I took the switch off, and got access to unit numbers 13-16. After a little more poking around, I got the controller to send commands for units 9-12, so now I can control all 16 units under the same house code with my controller by simply adding a switch; I think I'm going to use one of the neat mini 4-position rotary switches that I picked up surplus a few months ago. I also noticed that the house code selector switch (1 of 16 house codes) was just a mechanical 4-bit switch, so I'm hopefull that even if it takes a while to get the X-10 chip specs, I can easily modify one of the mini controllers to send commands for all 16 channels and all 16 house codes with the simple addition of some opto-isolators to operate the buttons-that-were via something like an 8051; that would give me serial control from my computer. For the computer, I need something that could stay on all the time, yet doesn't require a lot of power, so the Sun was out, and a PC is still too power-hungry. I settled on using an old Tandy Model-100 laptop that my dad was getting rid of. I'm thinking of mounting to the wall in our kitchen, and that way it can also be near the phone and used as a message center, phone dialer, and perhaps I can use the built-in 300 baud modem to answer my phone after so many rings and allow remote access to my home control and security system. I've got two wireless X-10 receivers set up in the bathroom off of the garage (now really just a storage room), but was getting pretty poor range from the hand-held remotes until I added about 3 feet of antenna wire to each remote receiver. Now I can control my system from the back yard, or from out front without any problems. Really, the remote receiver/hand-held transmitter is the neatest part of the system. So much for X-10. I'd welcome any comments from others using X-10; how you like it, what problems you've had with it, what kind of interfaces you've built (or contemplated building) for it. I think it's basically a sound system, the major weakness in the whole scheme is the way that the manufacturers seemed to have low-balled the controllers; a little more programmability would do wonders to make the system easier to live with. Here's an idea that I had while riding to work: I've got, let's say, 4 lamps in my living room that I control, each on a seperate channel. It would be great if I could assign them to a group, so that for example if the lamps are uni #'s 1,2,3 and 4, unit #5 (or whatever) would affect all 4 lamps equally, yet I could still retain independent control of each of the lamps if I wanted it. The system is capable of doing this, the controller just needs to interface to a computer rather than just sending the codes out on the line verbatim. mike -- Won't look like rain, Won't look like snow, | DOD #000007 Won't look like fog, That's all we know! | AMA #511250 We just can't tell you anymore, We've never made oobleck before! | MSC #298726
dennisg@felix.UUCP (Dennis Griesser) (02/14/91)
In <7283@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM>, bender@oobleck.Eng.Sun.COM asked a lot of questions about the BSR/X-10 control system. Although the replies and followups by Bender himself shed more light on the situation, some specific details, like part numbers, remain unclear. > - a mini-controller that you can stick by your bed or on a > table At various points in time, X-10 made (and Radio Shack sold) TWO versions of the "mini controller". - MC260 - had four switches for addressing units. Below these buttons were individual buttons for ON, OFF, DIM, and BRIGHT. To the left and right were large buttons for ALL_LIGHTS_ON, and ALL_LIGHTS_OFF. To turn on module #1, you hit the key for that unit, then the ON key. Two keys to hit. - MC460 - had four rocker switches for the devices, with additional switches for DIM/BRIGHT and ALL_LIGHTS_ON/ALL_OFF. To turn on module #1, you simply rock forwards the switch for unit 1. Simple, one key. Both of these versions had a slide switch that allowed you to shift the unit numbers up, so you could control twice as many modules. I prefer the MC460 version of the mini controller for installation next to the front door, because with one push, the lights go on - less fumbling in the dark. In my last apartment, there was a power outlet next to the door, where you would expect a light switch to be. I took one of these controllers, cut off the power cord, and installed a power plug flush in the case, with the prongs protruding from the back. This fit neatly on the outlet and gave me the equivalent of not only a wall-mounted lamp controller, but ALL_OFF and ALL_LIGHTS_ON, which are nice to have at the front door. > ... RS really low-balled the mini controller in that they only > provide control for unit numbers 1-4 OR 5-8, depending on how you > set a switch (i.e. unit numbers 9-16 can't be controlled by > this controller!) ... In a posting dated 20 Oct 86, Robert Rindfuss (rdr@inuxh.UUCP) reported a very interesting fact about the Radio Shack mini controller (he didn't say which model). Not only is it already wired for a 4-position selector switch, but has one installed! The only reason why you are limited to the 2 positions is that the front panel cutout is made for two positions. Presumably this is a marketing decision. If you happen to have the same model as Robert, you could have exactly what you want by merely enlarging the hole! He did! I opened my MC460, vintage 1987, and found neither the extra PC traces nor closed, or Robert was tinkering around with the MC260 mini controller. It does look like the controller chip pins are still available, though, if you don't mind a larger hacking job. > ... and their timer/controller is a toy, and it too > can only control 1-4 OR 5-8, but you can't specify the range of units > to control when you program the timer, so it's of marginal utility > to me. I haven't heard about this one, but it _might_ just be in the same boat as the mini controllers. X-10 has a history of using the same controller chip in as many designs as possible. If you are handy with tools, open it up and let us know what you find. (Careful, every X-10 unit I have ever opened is hot-chasis design!) > What I'd like to do is to get a data sheet on the X-10 line of chips > and perhaps some app notes and build an X-10 controller with a serial > port (rather than paying Crutchfield $60 for one!) ... Interface data on the chips, and block diagrams of the modules and controllers are not too hard to find. Steve Ciarcia, author of the old "Circuit Cellar" column in BYTE, and now publisher of "Circuit Cellar Ink", had a couple of articles in which he gave all the technical details. Check out the article: "Plug-in Remote Control System", by Steve Ciarcia Radio Electronics, September 1980, page 47 Notes: Gives details on the inside of the X-10 system, including schematics of the base station, lamp module, and appliance module. No buildable project, just lotsa nice info. BUT, be aware that you can't just go out and buy the chips! Each of the modules contains a mask-programmed single-chip micro, from General Instrument's PIC line. They are custom-made for X-10 USA by GI. I doubt that you can buy them alone! Your best bet is to buy legit X-10 stuff on sale and carve it up IF you feel compelled to use their chips. > Anyone know where BSR is located, and > if they are even the right people to call (are they still in business? > After their wildly-successfull programmable turntable of a few years > back, I wonder, although it was a really neat idea). BSR spun off the home control line several years ago. It is now a company called "X-10, USA". They are very much alive and kicking. The last address I have filed for them is: X-10 (USA) Inc. 185A LeGrand Ave. Northvale, NJ 07647 (201) 784-9700 (800) 526-0027 > I really don't want a pre-built controller with a serial interface, I want > to incorporate the X-10 circuitry into something that I'm building. There are all kinds of ways to do this, depending on your budget, requirements, and courage. For example: o The early main control consoles had an option for an ultrasonic microphone (control console model X10-014301). This could be activated by a remote control wand. If you have one of these models, you can simply hang an ultrasonic transducer ($5) on one bit of your computer's output port, toggle it at 40 Khz, and have the world's cheapest X-10 computer interface. The drawbacks, other than the rarity of this console nowadays, is interference from other ultrasonic sources, CPU overhead in your computer, and inability to talk to modules other than those set to the console's house-code. See Byte, September 1980, page 314. o It is said that the modern full-size consoles are built on the same chip as the old ultrasonic model, including the serial input pin. You can couple into that pin with an optoisolator and make a more reliable version of the o X-10 noticed the unused input, too. They eventually hung an IR demodulator on it. Now you can get a control console that can be activated from across the controller is set to. Look at Circuit Cellar Ink, June/July 1989, page 11. o Obviously, a computer can generate the IR pulses the same way that it can make ultrasonic pulses. o Some people use relays or CMOS transmission gates to "push the buttons" on a carved-up control console. This is sheer desperation, given the many cheaper and safer choices. On 5 Jan 88, David N. Horn (dh@antique.UUCP) reported on the use of optoisolators to short the keyboard matrix. This is much safer, but still a lot of work. o Consider a commercial X-10/computer interface. Although it is not the most flexible thing in the world, the one that X-10 USA offers is not a bad deal for the price. A partial listing of past and present commercial interfaces is: o Heath GD-1530, one-way RS-232 connection at up to 2400 BAUD, retailed as for $250 originally, lowered to $99, then discontinued. o X-10 Powerhouse Computer Interface CP290, 600 BAUD RS-232, with clock and timer, seen for as low as $20 (DAK's closeout). o old (gray) Radio Shack Color Computer Plug'n Power interface, uses the cassette port o newer Radio Shack Color Computer Plug'n Power interface with 4 direct control switches, interfaces through cassette port o Enerlogic ES-1400, bidirectional RS-232 interface, goes for around $395 (including PC software) o You can cook up your own signals that conform to the X-10 power-line protocol and inject them into the line. Unless you are very careful, this can be dangerous. Despite this, at least a dozen homebrew projects and commercial products have taken this approach in the past. The great advantage is that it allows you to send messages to all 256 devices on all 16 house codes. One design, the "Housemaster", familiar to old Digital Group owners (also available for S100), actually brought 110 VAC onto a card on the bus. Too scary for me, friend. For a very simple implementation, take a look at Computer Digest, May 1986. o Recognizing the desire for both hobbiests and OEMs to connect to the X-10 world, X-10 USA has created a special interface module just for us :-) ! It consists of a gated oscillator coupled into the power line and a zero- crossing detector so that you can get the timing right. It is model PL-513, for transmit-only. If you want to receive as well as transmit, there is the TW-523. It has all the capabilities of the PL-513, plus an X-10 detector and demodulator. For safety, both models are completely optoisolated from the line. They live in a box that looks much like a standard control module, except that it has a 4-wire telephone socket on the bottom. Take a look at the May/June '88 issue of "Circuit Cellar Ink", page 4. Although I have one of the TW-523 two-way power-line interface modules, I can not recommend it in good conscience. The interface is much tougher than it need be, it costs too much, and it has been castrated so that a large and useful subset of the X-10 commands cannot be received (you can send anyhting you want). > Other neato modules that I bought from RS for X-10: > - sounder/interface; this provides a contact closure and/or an > interrmittent chirping from it's built-in piezo buzzer > when it's unit/house code is accessed I'm interested in getting one of these, but it didn't look like it was on sale, like the rest of the X-10 ("Plug-N-Power") stuff this month. How much did it cost you?
rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu (Robert Wier) (02/19/91)
In article <157292@felix.UUCP>, dennisg@felix.UUCP (Dennis Griesser) writes: > > There are all kinds of ways to do this, depending on your budget, requirements, > and courage. For example: > o The early main control consoles had an option for an ultrasonic microphone > (control console model X10-014301). This could be activated by a remote > control wand. If you have one of these models, you can simply hang an > ultrasonic transducer ($5) on one bit of your computer's output port, > toggle it at 40 Khz, and have the world's cheapest X-10 computer interface. > The drawbacks, other than the rarity of this console nowadays, is > interference from other ultrasonic sources, CPU overhead in your computer, > and inability to talk to modules other than those set to the console's > house-code. See Byte, September 1980, page 314. Back about 80-82, I had an apple II which actually had a board in it to generate the ultrasonic pulses to be fed into the controller. It was pretty amazing. There was a little plastic tube which came off the board and went over to the front of the controller module. The end of the tube was stuck to the front of the controller where the ultrasonic receiver is located (with a velcro strip). Someone "permanently loaned" me the ultrasonic board for my apple, so I went out and bought the controller module from Sears. Since I was going to use it with my computer I didn't buy the actual remote control. After a couple of years, the guy asked for the board back! By then the remote control wasn't available any more from Sears. So I have an ultrasonic remote control module with no sender! I used to keep it on my bedside table since it had an "all lights on" button which was nice for security reasons. It's acting strangely now, though, and I'll probably retire it soon. - Bob Wier -------------- insert favorite standard disclaimers here ---------- College of Engineering Northern Arizona University / Flagstaff, Arizona Internet: rrw@naucse.cse.nau.edu | BITNET: WIER@NAUVAX | WB5KXH or uucp: ...arizona!naucse!rrw