asd@cbnewsj.att.com (Adam S. Denton) (03/01/91)
Well, I am about to embark on my first major digital project.
My analog stand-bys (soldering iron, bare wire, perfboard, long-nose
pliers) just won't cut it. So it's time I equipped myself for wire-wrapping.
I am starting from scratch, and am looking to find out:
- which tools out there are good, and which aren't (I have heard to
avoid the Just-Wrap, for example)
- sources for those good wire-wrap tools
- good sources for wire-wrap wire
- Do people prefer bulk or pre-stripped wire?
- Do people prefer the power wrappers or wrapping by hand?
- How many different colors of wire do I need to "stock"?
- Are there any opinions on what the best (or reasonably good) of
the hand tools (strip, cut, wrap, unwrap) and the best power
tools (ditto) are, and where to get them?
- how about those accessories like pins, WW IC sockets, etc.?
I don't mind the cost of quality; I intend to be wire-wrapping for many
years to come, so I'd rather get *good* tools rather than *cheap* tools,
if there is a distinction.
Thanks in advance, and any opinions are appreciated! E-mail and posting
are both fine. I will summarize if there's interest.
P.S. Thanks to all those who responded regarding crystal vendors!!
Adam Denton
asd@mtqua.att.comrpw3@rigden.wpd.sgi.com (Rob Warnock) (03/02/91)
In article <1991Feb28.233858.2360@cbnewsj.att.com> asd@cbnewsj.att.com (Adam S. Denton) writes: +--------------- | ...So it's time I equipped myself for wire-wrapping... | I don't mind the cost of quality; I intend to be wire-wrapping for many | years to come, so I'd rather get *good* tools rather than *cheap* tools, | if there is a distinction. +--------------- Yes, there is a distinction. There is a great difference in quality between *any* of the "cheap" tools and just about any of the expensive ones, but not so much difference among the expensive ones. I happen to be happy with both Gardner-Denver (the orignal Wire-Wrap trademark holder) and OK Machine Tools. Absolutely the best thing to have for volume (or many years) work is a line-powered (i.e., no batteries) wrap gun, with a cut+strip+wrap bit/sleeve. Note: I am *not* talking about "Slit-N-Wrap", but the professional power wrap bit which has a slot in the side of the sleeve. When you push the end of an unstripped wire into the bit, the end comes out of the slot in the sleeve. When you pull the trigger [having placed the bit over the pin first!], the rotation of the bit pinches the wire against the edge of the slot in the sleeve and cuts the end off, thereby measuring precisely the length of wire that will be wrapped. Then, the (designed) friction between the wire and the hole (that you've poked the wire into) "snaps" the insulation, and pulls it off the end of the wire as it's wrapped. [Note: You want to get the bit and sleeve combination for a "modified wrap", that wraps the first 2 turns *with* insulatioin, for strength.] Now prepare yourself for a bit of sticker shock: These things are *not* cheap! Prices do vary, so shop around, but here are some typical values: - Wrap gun (base unit, no bits) $ 80.00 - Bit/sleeve combo, #30 wire, modified wrap, *not* self-stripping $ 35.00 - Bit/sleeve combo, #30 wire, modified wrap, self-cutting/stripping (as described above) $200.00 That's right, you can pay $180 to $250 for the bit/sleeve combo alone! And you'll have to replace them after a couple of years of medium use, or a year of 8-hours-a-day-bench-tech use. But I happen to think it's well worth it. With a self-stripping bit, the work goes 2-5 *times* as fast (depending what you would have been using for cutting/stripping without it). Everyone I know who's serious about wire-wrap uses them. -Rob ----- Rob Warnock, MS-1L/515 rpw3@sgi.com rpw3@pei.com Silicon Graphics, Inc. (415)335-1673 Protocol Engines, Inc. 2011 N. Shoreline Blvd. Mountain View, CA 94039-7311
bvs@light.uucp (Bakul Shah) (03/04/91)
asd@cbnewsj.att.com (Adam S. Denton) writes: > ... >I am starting from scratch, and am looking to find out: > - which tools out there are good, and which aren't (I have heard to > avoid the Just-Wrap, for example) > - sources for those good wire-wrap tools > - good sources for wire-wrap wire > - Do people prefer bulk or pre-stripped wire? > - Do people prefer the power wrappers or wrapping by hand? > - How many different colors of wire do I need to "stock"? > - Are there any opinions on what the best (or reasonably good) of > the hand tools (strip, cut, wrap, unwrap) and the best power > tools (ditto) are, and where to get them? > - how about those accessories like pins, WW IC sockets, etc.? > >I don't mind the cost of quality; I intend to be wire-wrapping for many >years to come, so I'd rather get *good* tools rather than *cheap* tools, >if there is a distinction. Having just gone through this process here is my 40 Paisa's worth (at the official rate). Currently I have a friend's OK Industries WW tool and bought, on a trial basis, an R3 series Wire-Wrap brand tool (made by Cooper Tools. I believe these used to be sold under the Gardner-Denver name). These are somewhat comparable in price, both are power tools, and I am using 30 gauge cut-strip-wrap bit+sleeve with each. I am buidling two different ckt boards, and since I wanted to compare the two tools, I used the R3 for one ckt and the OKI on the other. I think I will end up buying th R3 tool for a number of reasons. It is lighter, has a much better ergonomic design and is very comfortable to use, easier to thread a wire, looks nicer, has rechargeable batteries and can supposedly do 1100 wraps per charge (the OKI runs off of 110V), can be used for wrapping as well as unwrapping, seems to be more reliable etc. The wire broke frequently on the OKI but not on the R3. Now admitedly, this is a very incomplete comparison, some things may be peculiar to the units I used (i.e. not a class property) so you should make your own comparison if you can. I found that many more stores carry the OKI tools and if you do find Wire-Wrap brand tools, they are usually more expensive. Fry's Electronics, here in Sillyvalley, sold me the R3 tool for about $180 (even though the price sticker on it was for $199.95!). They didn't have the CSW bit/sleeve or the CSW wire, which I got from Com-Kyl -- call up Cooper tools for a dealer name in your area. The few, commonly known, stores that I tried were way more expensive, so do call around. Try to get tools on a trial basis so that if you don't like them after some use you can return them. Pre-stripped wire is much more expensive so I don't use it. Stripping by hand takes some time and stripping real short wire is a pain. I prefer CSW bits for faster work but they are much more expensive than the normal ones (about three times). One other thing to consider is whether to by a tool with backforce or none (an internal spring that let the bit push back upto a point without your having to gently move the tool back). Some people prefer backforce device, I don't even though I am just a beginner. If you buy a normal bit (not CSW), get the `modified wrap' bit -- it wraps a some insulated wire as well for better withstanding of vibrations. As for number of colors to stock, I'd like some ideas for more experienced people. I use a small number of colors, one for each logical group of signals (such as data bus, control signals, VCC, ground and so on). The R3 can be used for unwrapping as well, by switching the battery connection but I just use a hand tool for that. That will change if ever I make massive mistakes! 30 guage wire works for most everything but I'd like to know what people use for VCC and ground. Do they wire-wrap with a thicker guage or solder? Also what about decoupling caps? I am using inline caps (like so: ------O-----) and solder one between vcc and gnd directly on a socket *before* inserting it in the board. But there must be a better way. (You can get sockets with caps already attached but I didn't find them in all sizes and they were expensive). As for sockets I don't know which ones are the best or what are the best / cheapest sources for them but would like to find out! Packs for two/three sockets are expensive so buy the largest size packets you are likely to use. I'd also like to know of inexpensive sources for the socket ID tags, perf board and such. Let me also say I'd rather directly go to printed circuit boards if at all possible; that is what I usually do. If you are reasonably careful in designing, using CAD tools, have access to simulators (atleast for checking out PAL logic), can afford one or two rounds of PCB making + circuit layout and want more than a couple of copies, PCBs are the way to go. Whenever possible I put control signals I may want to change in PALs and leave some free space and IO pins in each PAL so that most changes do not require any major ripping up. So... does anyone know of PCB houses that will make a small number of two/four/six layer PCBs inexpensively? Does anyone know of people who will do circuit layout for a reasonable price? Hope this was useful. I also hope people with much more experience than I will give us the benefit of their experience. I'd like to see even more discussions of practical aspects of circuit design, fabrication, routing, rules of thumb, sources of components & tools, services available, new techniques and technologies and new, interesting components etc. etc. It would also be nice if that sort of information can be organized, compiled and posted occasionally. If I weren't so busy *and* disorganized I'd volunteer :-( Sorry about going on and on. -- Bakul Shah bvs@BitBlocks.COM ..!{ames,apple,decwrl,pyramid,sun,uunet}!amdcad!light!bvs PS: Here are some useful numbers. Cooper Tools: 919 362 7510, FAX: 800 423 6175 Tool: R3 27600AD8 -- standard, 110V (for the battery charger) R3 27610AD7 -- backforce, 110V R3 27650AD3 -- standard, 220V R3 27600AD2 -- backforce, 220V 30 guage CSW Bit: 990764 30 guage CSW sleeve: 990765 42 I can't find the OKI catalog right now.
gsteckel@vergil.East.Sun.COM (Geoff Steckel - Sun BOS Hardware CONTRACTOR) (03/05/91)
In article <88547@sgi.sgi.com> rpw3@sgi.com (Rob Warnock) writes: >In article <1991Feb28.233858.2360@cbnewsj.att.com> asd@cbnewsj.att.com >(Adam S. Denton) writes: >| ...So it's time I equipped myself for wire-wrapping... > >Yes, there is a distinction. There is a great difference in quality between >*any* of the "cheap" tools and just about any of the expensive ones, but not >so much difference among the expensive ones. I happen to be happy with both >Gardner-Denver (the orignal Wire-Wrap trademark holder) and OK Machine Tools. I prefer Gardner-Denver. The OK units need Tender Loving Care or they spit at you (more exactly, twist your wire into globs and scream loudly from mismated gears). >Absolutely the best thing to have for volume (or many years) work is a >line-powered (i.e., no batteries) wrap gun, with a cut+strip+wrap bit/sleeve. The self-cutting and self-stripping bits are wonderful - BUT!!!! All the cut/strip/wrap bits I've used have ABSOLUTELY REQUIRED the use of special wire. If you use the standard Kynar insulation wire wrap wire you will destroy your $200 bit!! The special wire is made with insulation which 1) slips off the wire easily 2) cuts cleanly If the insulation fails to do either of these the cutting edges in the bit are bent, and they are impossible to fix. The right wire costs about the same as regular wire wrap wire. Use the kind recommended by the bit manufacturer. I would never use a slit-n-wrap for anything other than a paperweight. Battery or hand powered wire wrap guns are useful for doing a repair or other small number of wires. geoff steckel (gwes@wjh12.harvard.EDU) (...!husc6!wjh12!omnivore!gws) Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with Sun Microsystems, despite the From: line. This posting is entirely the author's responsibility.