rainer@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Rainer Malzbender) (04/03/91)
In the new Radio-Electronics, page 50AI, is an ad describing this stuff that you can use to make PC boards (use copier to copy artwork onto film, iron film onto board, peel and etch). It sounds too good to be true - has anyone used it and can tell us how well it works ? I've tried the standard copier/transparency film technique, and never really got it to work all that well for smaller traces, and I was wondering if this was any better. -- Rainer Malzbender, PhD Save a dinosaur - buy DEC. Dept. of Physics (303)492-6829 U. of Colorado, Boulder rainer@boulder.colorado.edu 128.138.240.246
acm@Sun.COM (Andrew MacRae) (04/09/91)
In article <1991Apr2.215801.22679@colorado.edu>, rainer@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Rainer Malzbender) writes: > In the new Radio-Electronics, page 50AI, is an ad describing this stuff > that you can use to make PC boards (use copier to copy artwork onto > film, iron film onto board, peel and etch). It sounds too good to be > true - has anyone used it and can tell us how well it works ? I've tried > the standard copier/transparency film technique, and never really got > it to work all that well for smaller traces, and I was wondering if this > was any better. A year ago I used what I call regular acetate overhead transparency film to do the same. What I found was that you need to heat the copper board well, place the acetate sheet on the copper, heat again for about ten seconds, then allow the copper to cool until room temperature before attempting to remove the acetate sheet. If you try too soon (as I did at first) a thin film of acetate will remain on the copper board. I used a clothes iron to heat the board and to press down on the acetate. Be careful not to use too much pressure when pressing as that will cause the traces to spread out. I used this technique to fashion a board holding an 8749 microcontroler. Andrew C. MacRae