craig@ssds.UUCP (Craig Ruff) (10/07/87)
Has anyone else noticed that a Mac II fan that sits close by (like an adjacent
room) sounds sort of like a dial tone on a modem speaker at low volume?
Talk about annoying, perhaps Steve Jobs was right. :-)
--
Craig Ruff
{hao,nbires}!isis!ssds!craigcm450s02@uhccux.UUCP (jeff t. segawa) (10/08/87)
In article <240@ssds.UUCP> craig@ssds.UUCP (Craig Ruff) writes: >Has anyone else noticed that a Mac II fan that sits close by (like an adjacent >room) sounds sort of like a dial tone on a modem speaker at low volume? >Talk about annoying, perhaps Steve Jobs was right. :-) Come on! It's not THAT bad! Mine just makes a sort of "whoosh-ing" noise. I can live with that. It also keeps my USR Courier modem cool too. The breeze coming from the left side of the cabinet is pretty useful for that purpose. After putting up with an overheated Apple //e, Mac 512K and Mac Plus, I'm glad to see that this bit of Steve Job's wisdom has been quitely laid to rest. Forever, I hope. I for one was absolutely delighted when I was the IIGS, SE and II all made available with fans. Finally, I don't have to worry that the computer is going to act flakey whenever the weather gets hot. On the other hand, my monochrome monitor sure used to rattle a lot when placed on top of the CPU. I tracked the noise down to a plastic part that prevents miscellaneous object from entering in via the security port. A tiny dab of hot glue did the trick.
mrh@Shasta.STANFORD.EDU (Marc Hannah) (10/09/87)
In article <925@uhccux.UUCP>, cm450s02@uhccux.UUCP (jeff t. segawa) writes: > In article <240@ssds.UUCP> craig@ssds.UUCP (Craig Ruff) writes: > >Has anyone else noticed that a Mac II fan that sits close by (like an adjacent > >room) sounds sort of like a dial tone on a modem speaker at low volume? > >Talk about annoying, perhaps Steve Jobs was right. :-) > Come on! It's not THAT bad! Mine just makes a sort of "whoosh-ing" noise. Personally I agree with Craig, the fan is much too loud. Seems to me that the fan is designed with a fully loaded Mac II in mind. Those are pretty rare these days. I would have prefered a temperature controlled fan instead. With only a card or two, the fan could be MUCH quieter most of the time. Seems like the desire to keep a fully loaded MacII cool governed the decision and ALL MacII users have to suffer because of this. David Gelphman daveg%slacvm.bitnet@forsythe.stanford.edu
dplatt@teknowledge-vaxc.ARPA (Dave Platt) (10/09/87)
Agreed, it's pretty noisy. My venerable Dynaco ST-416 audio amplifier has a nice hack installed in it for fan control. In series with the fan's power leads is a little frammis consisting of a thermostat in parallel with a rectifier diode. At low amp-power, the thermostat (mounted on the heat sink) remains open; this forces the fan to draw power through the rectifier, thus receiving only half-cycle current and running at half speed (or even less). If the heat sink warms up beyond the thermostat's set point, the 'stat closes, effectively shorting out the rectifier and delivering full-cycle current to the fan, which happily speeds up and cools the heat sink down more. Under intermediate load conditions, the fan will cycle between low and high speeds every minute or so (the massive heatsinks provide a relatively long time constant). I'd imagine that a little hack like this could be applied to the Mac II fan, assuming that it uses 120VAC and is of the usual mini-plug-in variety. I may just look around for the parts...
isle@dartvax.UUCP (Ken Hancock) (10/10/87)
In article <2082@Shasta.STANFORD.EDU> mrh@Shasta.STANFORD.EDU (Marc Hannah) writes: > Personally I agree with Craig, the fan is much too loud. Seems to me >that the fan is designed with a fully loaded Mac II in mind. Well of course it is... how'd you like to be responsible for going out an purchasing a new fan just because you bought a couple cards? It would be annoying as heck, and people would give Apple heck for not being foresighted. Ken -- Ken Hancock UUCP: isle@dartvax BITNET: isle@u2.dartmouth.edu DISCLAIMER: If people weren't so sue-happy, I wouldn't need one!
korn@apple.UUCP (Peter "Arrgh" Korn) (10/10/87)
In article <2082@Shasta.STANFORD.EDU> mrh@Shasta.STANFORD.EDU (Marc Hannah) writes: >> [several people complain about MacII fan noise] > Personally I agree with Craig, the fan is much too loud. Seems to me >that the fan is designed with a fully loaded Mac II in mind. Those are pretty >rare these days. I would have prefered a temperature controlled fan instead. >With only a card or two, the fan could be MUCH quieter most of the time. I believe that the MacII fan *is* temperature controled. I was looking into replacing my fan with a quieter one (one of the few areas where an Amiga clearly outperforms a MacII is in fan noise--the perfect reason to purchase one of those beasties... :-), and was talking to a hardware friend of mine who took a look at the board and said "geeze, that's a variable speed fan--just like those wierd Apple disk drives; ain't gonna be easy to replace that". This was some months ago, before I decided to jump a step up from retail. Perhaps someone here at Apple can provide more firm information though... -- -- Peter "Arrgh" Korn korn@apple.com !hplabs!amdahl!apple!korn "hi mom!"
hunt@firqb.dec.com (Phil Hunt) (10/13/87)
The user manual states that the noise of the fan will INCREASE as the machine gets hotter.. I find my fan very quiet, quieter than a Jasmine 80 I had, so the noise is acceptable to me. Phil Hunt
shap@sfsup.UUCP (J.S.Shapiro) (10/20/87)
In article <2082@Shasta.STANFORD.EDU>, mrh@Shasta.UUCP writes: > In article <925@uhccux.UUCP>, cm450s02@uhccux.UUCP (jeff t. segawa) writes: > > In article <240@ssds.UUCP> craig@ssds.UUCP (Craig Ruff) writes: > > >Has anyone else noticed that a Mac II fan that sits close by (like an adjacent > > >room) sounds sort of like a dial tone on a modem speaker at low volume? Worse still, If I sit my modem on the machine and my telephone on the modem, then whether or not the modem is on I hear an amazing buzz on the telephone. It is apparently not audible to people on the other end, but it is annoying nonetheless. Yes, I know that sticking a telephone immediately over the power supply I am asking for it. Jon
ge@phoibos.UUCP (Ge Weijers) (01/19/89)
Thanks for the help on reducing the noise of a Mac II to acceptable levels. I just (3 hours ago) replaced the fan by a Radio Shack/Tandy/Archer 273-243B (which exactly matches the specs of the 273-243A) and it works without any problems. I used a 1/10" spaced circuit board edge connector for a plug. No heat problems so far. The hottest part of the machine is the hard disk, and it is only about 45 degrees celcius (113 degrees farenheit). The fan costs fl.49,50 in the Netherlands, about 50% more than in the USA. The instructions I received from Dave Platt (dplatt@coherent.com) are very detailed. One tip: the fan comes out easily if the spacer is moved towards the circuit board so the edge of the fan can touch the metal casing. Ge' Weijers, ge@cs.kun.nl
billkatt@sol.engin.umich.edu (billkatt) (03/12/89)
Tonight I performed the much talked about fan modificiation to my Mac II. Now, my machine is so quiet I can't hear it (my hard drive is a different story). I, being an individual, decided to add my own little twist to the modification. I keep my Mac II "kickstanded" (i.e., in an upright position to the right of my desk). I am part of the vast majority who place the end with the power supply on the bottom, and the disk drives on the top. Because of this, I reversed the new fan when I put it in. Now, both convection and fan power draw air into the bottom of the machine and out the top. I can actually feel the air blowing out of the top of my machine. I think this is the ideal solution to both the fan noise and kickstand convection problems. Can anyone see any problems with this? The only qualm I have is that now the dirt drawn through the machine will probably collect inside the machine instead of inside the power supply. But that is okay, since I clean my machine out each month. +----------------------+----------------------------------------------------+ | Steve Bollinger | Internet: billkatt@caen.engin.umich.edu | | 4297 Sulgrave Dr. +------+---------------------------------------------+ | Swartz Creek, Mi. 48473 | "My employer doesn't take my opinion any | +-----------------------------+ more seriously than you do." | | "You remember the IIe, it +---------------------------------------------+ | was the machine Apple made before they decided people didn't need | | machines with big screens, color, or slots." | | - Harry Anderson (from NBC's Night Court) | +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
mikel@cs.dal.ca (Michael P. Lamoureux) (03/13/89)
In article <41f898be.a590@mag.engin.umich.edu>, billkatt@sol.engin.umich.edu (billkatt) writes: > Tonight I performed the much talked about fan modificiation to my Mac II. Just what is this Mac II fan modification? How do I do it, where do I get the new fan from? Michael Lamoureux, mikel@cs.dal.cs
carlson@hpindda.HP.COM (Bob Carlson) (03/14/89)
I got a IIx last week and now that the initial rush has worn off, I notice that I can tell from two rooms away that I forgot to turn the machine off. The fan noise, of course, gives it away. (At least it can't sneak up on me in the dark.) Could someone post the instructions for fan surgery again for those of us who didn't get it when we should have? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Bob
sidlives@mit-vax.LCS.MIT.EDU (David Rho) (03/16/89)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.mac Subject: Re: Mac II Fan Noise Summary: Expires: References: <41f898be.a590@mag.engin.umich.edu> <40260009@hpindda.HP.COM> Sender: Reply-To: sidlives@mit-vax.UUCP (David Rho) Followup-To: Distribution: Organization: MIT Laboratory for Computer Science, Cambridge Keywords: In article <40260009@hpindda.HP.COM> carlson@hpindda.HP.COM (Bob Carlson) writes: >I got a IIx last week and now that the initial rush has >worn off, I notice that I can tell from two rooms away >that I forgot to turn the machine off. The fan noise, >of course, gives it away. (At least it can't sneak up >on me in the dark.) Could someone post the >instructions for fan surgery again for those of us >who didn't get it when we should have? Thanks in advance. > >Cheers, Bob Get a Mac IIcx. It (with the right HD) is wisper quiet. You should hear (or not hear ) one. David Rho sidlives@vx.lcs.mit.edu
holland@m2.csc.ti.com (Fred Hollander) (03/17/89)
In article <40260009@hpindda.HP.COM> carlson@hpindda.HP.COM (Bob Carlson) writes: >I got a IIx last week and now that the initial rush has >worn off, I notice that I can tell from two rooms away >that I forgot to turn the machine off. The fan noise, >of course, gives it away. (At least it can't sneak up >on me in the dark.) Could someone post the >instructions for fan surgery again for those of us >who didn't get it when we should have? Thanks in advance. Just read (MacWorld, I think) that Apple strongly recommends against changing the fan. The measure of unrestricted air flow is not sufficient. With NuBus boards, etc. the Radio Shack fan might not adequately cool the Mac, leading to a shorter life. But, if you still want to do it, here's how: Note: I'd added Sony-specific instructions, but, I can't find them. Shouldn't be difficult to figure out. Just be aware that there are differences if you have a Sony power supply. In article <5776@coherent.com| you write: |Last week, I found the following tidbits on my local EchoMac bulletin-board |system: | | ------------------ | | From: James Brigman | To: Howard Berman Msg #313, 29-May-88 08:50pm | Subject: Re: A Quieter Macii! | | Howard; | You can reduce the noise level of a Mac II by replacing the nasty little | Panaflo 12V .45A unit with an equivalent part from Radio Shack. It's Cat. No. | 273-243A, a 3" DC Brushless Fan. This is a 12V, .16A BALL BEARING unit that is | about 70% quieter than the original. I am preparing a procedure for the | "upgrade", but it should be relatively straightforward if you have had any | reasonable electronics hobbyist experience. | ONE NOTE: The radio shack unit is rated 27CFM, while the oem unit is rated | 31CFM. I expect this to make a difference only for a fully loaded Mac II | system. I have operated my Mac II in this altered state for two months now, | and have had no problems whatsoever. | Additionally, if you can mail order an equivalent unit at a better price, do | so. I'm not endorsing RS, it | just the most accessible source for most people. | Someone else out there on Fidonet has reported a successful upgrade via this | method, with a dramatic decrease in noise level. I forget his name. | Please let me know if you need more information, if you will attempt the | upgrade and when you successfully complete the project. | --- TBBS v2.0 | * Origin: Micro Message Service NCRTP (919)779-6674 Multiline TBBS (151/102) | | *** This is a reply to #82. | | From: Andrew Stone | To: Howard Berman Msg #286, 31-May-88 07:26pm | Subject: Re: A Quieter Macii! | | Hi, | I quieted my MacII with James' suggestion of replacing the .45a fan with | the .15 Radio Shack #273-243A fan {$14.95} in the power supply. Very | straightforward, if you like getting your feet wet. | Probably not recommended if you are driving 4 monitors and running 2 16meg ram | nubus cards! | | --andrew | --- TBBS v2.0 | * Origin: The BMUG BBS - home of MUGADMIN - Berkeley, CA (161/444) | | ------------------ | |This was too impressive a suggestion to pass up. I popped my II open, |examined the innards of the power supply, and decided that I could |fumble my way through the fan-swap without difficulty even in the |absence of detailed directions. Fortunately, I was correct... the whole |job took me about 45 minutes. The Mac II runs _much_ quieter with the |new fan; the airflow doesn't seem to have been noticably diminished, |and the case and "exhaled" air seem to be no warmer than before. | |For the benefit of those of you who may wish to undertake a similar |fanectomy and transplant, here are the steps involved. NOTE: I don't |guarantee that this sequence is entirely correct or complete (I'm |working from memory rather than from notes), and I specifically disavow |any responsibility for the outcome (short- or long-term) of a fan-swap |according to these or any other directions. Do it at your own risk! | |Please note James Brigman's cautions above about the fact that the |replacement fan has a lower maximum airflow than the OEM fan... if your |Mac has lots of NuBus cards or is operated in a hot room, switching fans |might cause problems. This mod will certainly void the warranty on your |power supply! | |The Radio Shack fan suggested for this modification is rated at .16 |ampere maximum (about a third of the Matsushita Panaflo OEM fan), at |27 CFM maximum (cubic feet of air moved, per minute... about 10% less |than the OEM fan), and 35 dbA maximum (I don't know the sound rating of |the OEM fan). Many similar fans are available... a brief glance through |the EE Master Catalog showed more than a dozen manufacturers listing fans |that could be used in this application. There are many different |tradeoffs possible between current required, airflow delivered, noise |level, and bearing type; if you have the energy and opportunity, you |could pick the specific fan best for your Mac II. If you're like me, |you'll go to Radio Shack... | | ------------------ | |PARTS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED: | |* 3" DC Brushless Fan. Radio Shack part #273-243A, or equivalent. |* 2" of small-diameter (1/8" or so) heat-shrink tubing, or a roll of black | electrical tape |* 2 plastic wire ties or equivalent (I used waxed dental tape!) |* Optional: a small plug of the sort used to terminate the ends of the | fan wires in the Mac II power supply. I have no idea where to locate | such a plug... but if you can find one, you need not cut the plug off | of the OEM fan wires. | |TOOLS NEEDED: | |* Medium-sized Phillips-head and flat-head screwdrivers |* Diagonal cutters |* Needle-nose pliers |* Standard pliers |* Soldering iron (I used a 35 watt unit) and rosin-core solder. |* Code-approved grounding strap or pad, if available. If not, work | where you won't generate static charges, and discharge any static | buildup on your body by touching a grounded object (WHILE TOUCHING | NOTHING ELSE!) before opening the Mac II case, and frequently | thereafter. | |CAUTIONS: | |* Read through all of these instructions before starting. After you | open the power supply, examine it carefully and make sure that you | understand what is to be done in each step, before you actually | remove any components or clip any wires. | |* These procedures worked with the power supply in my Mac II; if my | descriptions don't match up with what you see in your Mac II, do | what's right for your machine! | |* Use all standard precautions against zapping your Mac II with static, | and against zapping yourself with 120-volt power! If you don't know | what you're doing, DON'T DO IT! | |* If something goes wrong or doesn't work properly... it's your | problem, not mine. | |INSTRUCTIONS: | |* Shut down your Mac II, and let it rest for at least 5 minutes before | proceeding. | |* Unplug all cables and wires from the Mac II chassis. | |* Remove the cover-retaining screw at the center of the back side of | the Mac II cover; press the cover-release buttons at each back | corner, pivot the cover up and towards you until the catches at the | front of the case disengage, and set the cover aside. [This procedure | is pictured on page 8 of your Mac II owner's manual] | |* Touch the case of the power supply with one hand, while keeping your | other hand clear of all electrical thingies. This will equalize any | static-electricity potential between you and the Mac II. | |* If your Mac II was configured in the standard fashion, the video card | is probably mounted in Slot 1, immediately to the right of the power | supply. This isn't really an optimal position... the card restricts | the airflow somewhat, causing the fan to work harder and raising the | noise level. It's also in your way, now that you want to remove the | power supply. I'd recommend moving the card over to Slot 4 or Slot 5 | (putting it in Slot 6 might interfere with the cables for an internal | SCSI hard disk). BE SURE to touch the power-supply case, and thus | discharge any static electricity on your body, BEFORE touching the | video card... some of its components are said to be extremely | static-sensitive. Also, be careful to plug the card back into the | motherboard correctly... don't bend the pins or the card. [See pages | 9 through 11 of your owner's manual] | |* A multi-wire cable comes out of the power supply and plugs into the | Mac II motherboard. Disconnect the plug by pulling it gently towards | the front of the Mac II until it disengages the motherboard pins. | |* There is a single screw near the motherboard power-supply plug, which | fastens a metal "foot" of the power-supply case to the Mac II | cabinet. Remove this screw and set it aside. | |* Slide the power supply towards the front of the Mac II case (it moves | about an inch). This will disengage it from slots and pins in the | case. Raise the font end of the supply towards you, and then lift | out the entire power supply module. | |* Set the Mac II case aside where you won't drop anything into it. | |* The power-supply has a U-shaped cover which is fastened with two | screws (one at either end) and which has slots that engage retaining | ridges on the sides of the power-supply case. Remove the screws and | set them aside. Disengage the cover slots from the retaining ridges; | this can be done with firm finger-pressure, or by prying gently with | a flat-blade screwdriver. Slide the cover off, and set it aside. | |* Set the power supply down, with the open side up and the fan towards | the right. | | NOTE: in subsequent steps, I'll use the following conventions: | "top" and "bottom" refer to the open side of the power supply, and | the side that's now sitting on the desk/table/floor. Other | directions will be specified as if the fan were a clock: "9-o'clock" | refers to the direction to the left of the fan, "12-o'clock" refers | to the far side of the power supply, and so forth. | |* Make a sketch of the fan's position. You'll note that a pair of | wires (red and black) leaves the fan case at the 1-o'clock position, | runs along the 12-o'clock side of the fan, is bundled with another | red-and-black pair of wires, and terminates in a plug that's | connected to a small circuit-board which is mounted above and on the | 9-o'clock side of the fan. The second pair of red-and-black wires | runs from an LED mounted above the fan on the 3-o'clock side, and | runs to a plug connected to a circuit board below the fan at about | the 10-o'clock position. [To make matters even more confusing, the | LED wires plug into the 10-o'clock circuit board at a point | misleadingly labelled "fan"!. Be sure you don't confuse the wires, | plugs, or plug-in locations!] | |* The fan and LED wires are fastened together with a plastic wire-tie. | Cut this tie with diagonal cutters, and discard it. Also cut and | discard a second, larger tie that fastens the outgoing power-supply | wires to the 4:30-o'clock corner of the fan. | |* Unplug the fan leads from the circuit-board at the 9-o'clock | position. There's a small retainer that engages a ridge on the plug; | pull the retainer gently away from the pin with a fingertip to | release the plug. Separate the fan wires from the LED wires, and | make sure that the LED wires are routed clear of the 12-o'clock side | of the fan. | |* Turn the power supply so that the "bottom" (the air-intake side) is | accessible. Loosen and remove the four Phillips-head screws that | hold the fan in place, and set the screws aside. Return the power | supply to its original position. | |* You should now be able to reach down and remove the fan from the | power supply. You'll find it necessary to raise the 6-o'clock edge | of the fan first, then rotate the fan slightly as you work it | upwards. Be careful not to force the fan against the LED, circuit | boards, or against the capacitors mounted above the 6-o'clock edge. | It _is_ possible to remove the fan without removing or damaging any | components! | |* Below the fan's position is a spacer, which held the fan about 3/8" | above the bottom of the power supply (the air-intake grill). Leave | this spacer in place. | |* Examine the fan. You'll see that the four retaining screws were held | by small brass nuts that are pressure-fitted into the fan's | plastic case. If you want to leave the original fan entirely intact, | you'll need to scrounge up four nuts of the same size and thread. | Otherwise, remove these press-fit nuts from the fan, by turning the | fan upside down, setting it on a firm surface, inserting the point of | a pair of needle-nose pliers through the mounting holes (so that they | fit inside the threaded portion of the press-fit nut), and applying | gentle and increasing pressure downwards. The press-fit nuts will | pop out of the fan case after a few seconds, leaving the fan intact. | |* Mount the press-fit nuts into the new Radio Shack fan. This can be | done by placing them into the mounting holes by hand, and squeezing | them into the fan's case with a pair of pliers. Remember that you | want them mounted in the same places, and in the same way, as they | were on the original fan. | |* Cut the wires that run from the original fan to the plug at the | wires' end. Be sure to leave a couple of inches of wire attached to | the plug. | |* Cut the wires on the new fan to a suitable length... leave them an | inch or so longer than the wire stubs that remain on the original | fan. | |* Strip about 1/2" of insulation off of the two leads coming from the | plug, and from the two leads coming from the new fan. | |* If you have some narrow-diameter heat-shrink tubing, cut two 1" | pieces, and thread them over the ends of the wires from the new fan. | |* Twist the red wire from the plug to the red wire from the new fan. | Twist the black wire from the plug with the blue wire from the new | fan. Solder both connections. After the connections cool, bend the | twisted and soldered portions down against the wires themselves. | |* If you placed heat-shrink tubing on the wires, move the tubing up to | cover the soldered regions, and heat it above the soldering iron (or | with another heat source) until it shrinks and secures the solder | splices. If you don't have heat-shrink tubing, insulate the solder | joins with black electrical tape. | |* Lower the new fan into the power supply, reversing the turns and | contortions that were necessary to remove the old fan. Make sure | that you place it in the same orientation as the original fan... the | wires will leave the top of the fan case at the 1-o'clock position. | Double-check this using the sketch you made earlier. | |* With a flat-bladed screwdriver, move the fan spacer (now below the | new fan) into proper alignment with the fan itself. Ideally, you'll | be able to look down through the fan's mounting holes, through the | spacer, and through the holes in the power-supply case itself. | |* Lift the power supply up vertically without turning it, and insert the | four fan-retaining screws from beneath. They should slide through | the spacer, and engage the press-fit nuts mounted in the new fan's | body. Finger-tighten each screw a few turns before inserting the | next one. Once all four screws have been inserted into their nuts, | turn the power supply on its side and tighten the screws with a | screwdriver. Tighten them firmly, but not too hard (don't want to | break the fan case). Set the power supply back down in its original | position. | |* Reinsert the plug on the fan leads into the pins on the circuit board | at the 9-o'clock position. Make sure that you plug it in correctly; | the retaining clip on the circuit board should engage the ridge on | the plug. | |* Dress the fan and LED leads neatly, by folding any excess fan wire | into a "Z" shape, and fastening the wires together with a plastic | wire tie or insulated thread of some sort (I used Tom's waxed dental | tape... I doubt that the mint flavoring will cause problems). Make | sure that the fan rotates smoothly and doesn't strike any of the wires. | |* Fasten the outgoing power-supply leads to the 4:30-o'clock corner of | the fan with a wire tie, per the original arrangement. [Actually, | this seems rather superfluous, as the leads are dressed to the case | less than an inch away with a screw-mounted cable tie. I didn't | bother to re-dress them...] | |* Place the power-supply cover back on the case and press it back into | position. Make sure that the retaining slots and ridges all line up | properly. Replace the cover-retaining screws at either end of the | case, and tighten. | |* Return the power supply to the Mac II cabinet. Lower it into the | cabinet with the front (fan) end raised slightly, to permit the pins | at the rear of the cabinet to engage. Then, lower it into its | horizontal position, slide it gently towards the rear of the case to | engage the slots near the front end of the supply, line up the | retaining "foot" with the proper hold in the case, and reinsert and | tighten the hold-down screw. | |* Plug the power supply back into the motherboard. Make SURE that you | plug it in properly... double-check this, or you could quite possibly | damage your machine when you turn it on! | |* Put the cabinet cover back on... engage the slots at the front of the | case first, then lower the rear of the cover into position and press | down until the cover-retaining catches engage. Reinsert and tighten | the cover-retaining screw. [See page 11 of your Mac II owner's | manual.] | |* Reconnect the monitor, keyboard, and other peripherals and | accessories. | |* Reconnect the power cord, and plug the Mac II back in. | |* Push the "Power on" button, and hear the reassuring chord. If the | Mac doesn't power up, emits the four-note "I'm sick" chime, or lets | out a hail of sparks and smoke... well... you have my sympathies! | |* Stare at the Mac and see if you believe that it has actually powered | up... the buzzing WHOOSH of the old fan will have been replaced by a | quiet breeze. | | ------------------ | |If you use this procedure, I'd enjoy hearing about the results. If you |can suggest any changes to the procedure to make it easier or more |effective (or to correct any errors on my part), please let me know! |[I'll be away on business through 6/26; please forgive any tardiness in |responding to your comments.] | |Best of luck! | |-- |Dave Platt VOICE: (415) 493-8805 | USNAIL: Coherent Thought Inc. 3350 West Bayshore #205 Palo Alto CA 94303 | UUCP: ...!{ames,sun,uunet}!coherent!dplatt DOMAIN: dplatt@coherent.com | INTERNET: coherent!dplatt@ames.arpa, ...@sun.com, ...@uunet.uu.net