kaufmads@clutx.clarkson.edu (Dana S. Kaufman,TEP House,58520,) (12/06/90)
Here is the 2002 fix that many people have asked me for. I am not sure
if it works for a 1084 monitor because I haven't tried it yet. It seems
that it originally was a 1084 fix from some of the earlier mailings.
It does definately work on a 2002.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2002 FIX
Re-printed from message on comp.sys.amiga.hardware by
jms@tardis.Tymnet.COM (Joe Smith) on May 19, 1990
Take off the cover of the 2002 and look at it from the back. Examine the
printed-circuit (PC) board. To the left you should find the power connector,
the audio connector, and the chroma/luma video connectors. That corner of the
PC board is grounded and shielded by a piece of metal that is soldered on.
To the right you should find an "L" shaped aluminum heat sink with a power
transistor bolted to the right-hand side. (The planes of the heat sink are
vertical and surround the flyback transformer. A thick wire comes out
of the flyback transformer and connects to the upper side of the picture
tube.)
If you look under the printed circuit board, you should see two screws
holding the heat sink to the PC board, and a bent metal tang that goes
through a hole and also holds the heat sink down. I saw evidence of an
electrostatic discharge that jumped from the metal tang to one of the copper
traces on the PC board. This is the cause of the "snap" and "pop".
The heat sink is not electrically connected to anything, and accumulated
an electrostatic charge until it arced over.
I simply ran a wire from one of the screws that holds the heat sink to the
PC board over to a screw by the input connectors. Make sure the wire is
insulated so as to not short out anything else on the PC board. I used
an ohm-meter and verified that it showed zero ohms between the heat sink
and the grounding shield. "Poof", no more pops!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dana S. Kaufman
kaufmads@clutx.clarkson.edu
"I did not write this fix, I just re-typed it in"
on368bq@tamuts.tamu.edu (Raoul Rodriguez) (12/08/90)
This is an except from a letter I wrote to a distraught 1084 owner who had the exact same problem that I had about 6 months ago... Basically the problem was that every now and then, the monitor would blank out, it would actually power down, but, a good whack on the side of the case would bring the monitor back to life (just like Oral Roberts) but, alas, it would get more and more serious, until you are ready to kill something... like an uncooperative C= dealer... I had the exact same problem, and I took my monitor to the local C= dealer he told me he couldn't g fix it (actually he wanted to replace the entire motherboard of the monitor ($170+... phew!). I told my friend about my problem, we took my moniotr over to his apartment, and he broke out the soldering iron. We open up the case, and took the monitor out (there are screws in the back near the plugs too (we kinna missed them for a bit :) )) you have to remove the metal shielding on the bottom of the mother board and check for broken solder joints, I had about 3 or so we resoldered. You shouldn't do this, but, we pluged it in a checked to make sure where the broken joint was at (before we removed the shielding) by pressing on the bottom of the shielding in certain spots to see where the monitor was broken at. If you can't do the soldering now, here is a quick fix (but it is only temorary (trust me)), take some bad disks and stick them between the metal shielding on the bottom of the mother board and the bottom of the plastic monitor case, about 2 or 3 should do in order to get the picture back. This will only last about 2 months or so though... and then it goes a back to its old tricks. All and all, it cost me a Super Big Gulp to fix (my friend works cheap :) ), and the monitor is good as new. You will have to unsolder the shielding to get at the bad joints, and then have to resolder it in place, and for god's sake, don't mess with any of the knobs inside the case (The one's on the back of the tube are focusing... and they are a pain to get right again... (more experience.. :) ). Before we put the monitor back together again we plugged into the computer to see if it would work or not (it did... :) ). Hopes this helps... Raoul (my monitor works) Rodriguez
kaufmads@clutx.clarkson.edu (Dana S. Kaufman,TEP House,58520,) (12/08/90)
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 90 20:32:21 GMT
Message-ID: <1990Dec5.203221.4108@grape.ecs.clarkson.edu>
References: <LCLINE.90Dec5093031@crg8.sequent.comOA>
Sender: @grape.ecs.clarkson.edu
Here is the 2002 fix that many people have asked me for. I am not sure
if it works for a 1084 monitor because I haven't tried it yet. It seems
that it originally was a 1084 fix from some of the earlier mailings.
It does definately work on a 2002.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2002 FIX
Re-printed from message on comp.sys.amiga.hardware by
jms@tardis.Tymnet.COM (Joe Smith) on May 19, 1990
Take off the cover of the 2002 and look at it from the back. Examine the
printed-circuit (PC) board. To the left you should find the power connector,
the audio connector, and the chroma/luma video connectors. That corner of the
PC board is grounded and shielded by a piece of metal that is soldered on.
To the right you should find an "L" shaped aluminum heat sink with a power
transistor bolted to the right-hand side. (The planes of the heat sink are
vertical and surround the flyback transformer. A thick wire comes out
of the flyback transformer and connects to the upper side of the picture
tube.)
If you look under the printed circuit board, you should see two screws
holding the heat sink to the PC board, and a bent metal tang that goes
through a hole and also holds the heat sink down. I saw evidence of an
electrostatic discharge that jumped from the metal tang to one of the copper
traces on the PC board. This is the cause of the "snap" and "pop".
The heat sink is not electrically connected to anything, and accumulated
an electrostatic charge until it arced over.
I simply ran a wire from one of the screws that holds the heat sink to the
PC board over to a screw by the input connectors. Make sure the wire is
insulated so as to not short out anything else on the PC board. I used
an ohm-meter and verified that it showed zero ohms between the heat sink
and the grounding shield. "Poof", no more pops!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dana S. Kaufman
kaufmads@clutx.clarkson.edu
"I did not write this fix, I just re-typed it in"
o