amigan@cup.portal.com (R Michael Medwid) (01/03/91)
Have successfully rendered clear glass of different refractive indicies.. just turn "shininess" OFF 0 nada. I have also rendered clear objects with brushs wrapped on them..e.g. take a brush map of stone (ie impulse "power textures") and wrap an object and the put transparency at about 60%..place this in front of a wood door or floor..radical..dude.
her@compel.UUCP (Helge Egelund Rasmussen) (01/04/91)
amigan@cup.portal.com (R Michael Medwid) writes: > I have also rendered clear objects with >brushs wrapped on them..e.g. take a brush map of stone (ie impulse "power >textures") and wrap an object and the put transparency at about 60%..place >this in front of a wood door or floor..radical..dude. What is "power textures" ? I've got some problems with brush mappings on simple objects. I tried to map a iff picture on a flat object (to create a painting), however the result is awful: Some of the faces of the object looks ok, but about half of the faces look weird. Brush mapping to non flat objects (ie. the flag from the tutorial manual) works ok. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Helge --- Helge E. Rasmussen . PHONE + 45 31 37 11 00 . E-mail: her@compel.dk Compel A/S . FAX + 45 31 37 06 44 . Copenhagen, Denmark
a763@mindlink.UUCP (Scott Busse) (01/04/91)
I have had no problem mapping images to flat objects, as in a painting. Make sure that the flat object doesn't have phong shading on it, as that will screw it for sure. The y axis of the brush should be relatively small, just enough to be sure that the depth of the axis is enough to envelope the object edge that you're mapping to. Also remember that the image of the brush being wrapped is located within the bounds of the positive yellow axes, not the whole yellow box. Hope this helps... * Scott Busse email: O O O_ _ ___ ..... * CIS 73040,2114 ||| /|\ /\ O/\_ / O )=| * USENET: l | | |\ / \ /\ _\ * a763@mindlink.UUCP May the frames be with you... \
her@compel.UUCP (Helge Egelund Rasmussen) (01/07/91)
a763@mindlink.UUCP (Scott Busse) writes: >I have had no problem mapping images to flat objects, as in a painting. Make >sure that the flat object doesn't have phong shading on it, as that will screw >it for sure. The y axis of the brush should be relatively small, just enough to >be sure that the depth of the axis is enough to envelope the object edge that >you're mapping to. Also remember that the image of the brush being wrapped is >located within the bounds of the positive yellow axes, not the whole yellow >box. Hope this helps... I've had lots of problems with mapping to flat objects (ie. planes), and here is my solution: Use the magnet to change the plane into a curved surface, then scale the object so that it becomes NEARLY (but not exactly) flat again. I use phong shading on the plane. Here is two other questions: In turbo silver, it is possible to create objects with an ambient color. That is the object will shine, but still not work as a lamp. This feature is useful for night scenes. Can this be done in Imagine?? Also, in TS it is possible to turn any object into a light source. In this way it was possible to create lamps etc. which could be seen in the scene. As far as I can tell, the Imagine light sources are invisible. I've emulated this feature by creating a sphere with color = 255,255,255 and filering = 127,127,127. Then I placed a light source INSIDE the sphere. This looks ok, but it is not possible to create strong light sources this way. Can this be done in any other way?? Helge --- Helge E. Rasmussen . PHONE + 45 31 37 11 00 . E-mail: her@compel.dk Compel A/S . FAX + 45 31 37 06 44 . Copenhagen, Denmark
groo@chsdip (Bill Squier) (01/07/91)
In message <1329@compel.UUCP> her@compel.UUCP (Helge Egelund Rasmussen), writes: >I've got some problems with brush mappings on simple objects. >I tried to map a iff picture on a flat object (to create a painting), however >the result is awful: Some of the faces of the object looks ok, but about >half of the faces look weird. > >Brush mapping to non flat objects (ie. the flag from the tutorial manual) >works ok. I had similar problems wrapping brushes on to flat planes until I discovered something that the manual isn't too clear on. Try the following example yourself to illustrate the (serious) caveats of brush mapping (example assumes default function key mapping): In the detail editor: Select Add/Primative/Plane, and except the default plane configuration. Select it with [F1], and edit its attributes with [F7]. Select [] Brush 1, and an appropriate IFF from the requester. When the Axis editing requester appears, select "Edit Axis". A yellow square appears in the "Front View", and a line in the other two views. Press [M] to move the axis, and drag it (in the Front View) so the center point is just outside of the lower left hand corner. The "Front" display will now look something like: z --------- | : | | : | | .===|x --|-- | | | | | | .==-----| | | ----- Where the smaller square is the yellow brush axis. Note also that in the top view, the two X axes are directly on top of each other (you may have to be zoomed in before you begin to see this). Here lies the first problem. Apparently, in order for Imagine to wrap the brush correctly on to a surface, the brush axis must be offset slightly to one side or the other. Before we do that, SCALE the brush with the "S" command so that the top right quadrent (the positive axes) encompass the entire plane. Now go to the top window and MOVE the yellow x-axis to at least 1 pixel below the orange axis. You'll note that it also moves one pixel in front of the orange axis in the right view. It is important that you remember which face is the "front" of your plane. In my test renderings you see a blotchy-patchy IFF from the other side. You will see this same problem on both sides if you let the X axes sit on top of each other. With all of that completed, press the space bar to return to the requester, and select [OKAY] to return to the Attributes requester. To get the best image, turn "Dithering" way down (I usually set it to zero), and select [OKAY]. Save your object, and move to the stage editor. At this point, the only thing you have to remember is which was the "front" of your object, and make sure the camera is pointing at it. For other objects, just remember that the positive portion of the brush axes is the part that contains the image. It is this top right quadrant (from the Front view) that must be enlarged and centered on the object. ----- Bill Squier (groo) Amiga : uunet!tronsbox!dsoft!chsdip!groo (best) `Only Amiga!' VAX : uunet!vaxb.stevens-tech.edu!u93_wsquier