gw@sickkids.UUCP (CFI/Graham Wilson ) (07/20/87)
I will shortly be in the market for an IBM XT clone, and what I need
to know is: what's out there?
I would like information about the multitude of brands available, and
comments on their strong/weak points (i.e. avoid Fred's XT Clone
because the hard disk controller craps out too much). Are there any
brands I should avoid? Any considered better-than-average? Any
advantages to buying the original IBM?
Please send your replies, comments, and information. I will post
a summary for all to see.
Graham Wilson ...!decvax \
CyberFluor Inc. ...!allegra \ \
179 John St., Floor 4 ...!linus > !utzoo > !sickkids!cfi!graham
Toronto, Ontario ...!watmath / /
M5T 1X4 ...!ihnp4 /
Thanks bunches in advance!
P.S. If you live in the Toronto area, details about dealers (and
prices - I'm poor) would be appreciated.res1@mhuxu.UUCP (Rick Stealey) (07/22/87)
> I would like information about the multitude of brands available, and > comments on their strong/weak points (i.e. avoid Fred's XT Clone > because the hard disk controller craps out too much). Are there any > brands I should avoid? Any considered better-than-average? Any > advantages to buying the original IBM? I purchased an XT clone this year (Fountain). It is equipped in a very straightforward fashion: 2 floppy drives 640 K on the motherboard multi I/O card (2 floppy controllers,game port, 2 serial ports, 1 par port, and a clock) Color graphics card which provides for RGB color and approximately 400 x 200 line text resolution Enhanced AT keyboard (with separate number pad and cursor keys) The computer is a Fountain. What does that mean? Nothing at all except some sort of dealer network with some possible value in terms of the guarantee. Every single item mentioned above, except for the drives HAS NO NAME ON IT AT ALL. This means every item is generic, they are packed in a brown box with the only label being "Made in Taiwan, R.O.C." The construction of the modules is outstanding. The boards are beautifully built, and the quality appears to be impeccable. What type of XT clone to buy? I don't think it makes any difference at all. I have seen Fountains, Beltrons, etc. sitting right next to clones with no label on the front panel at all and they are assembled with the identical modules. The computer takes on some identity after it is assembled and a nameplate is stuck on the front panel. I have studied prices of cards and modules vs completed systems from the same dealer and concluded that there is no difference in the "system" prices. Therefore, my advice is to buy a clone from a dealer who is competitive in price, will stand behind the product in case a warranty replacement is required, and has the stuff in stock. To plug my dealer, that is MIT Computers in Pennsauken, NJ. Good luck. -- Rick Stealey {ihnp4}!mhuxu!res1
hundt@wind.bellcore.com (tom hundt) (07/23/87)
It's been my experience when shopping for these things that
yes, they are all very similar and you can't tell brand names
(ie. they are all brand X). I've been told that there are only
about 4 companies that really make the things.
So what you have to watch for are features:
HARD DISK CONTROLLERS:
Look for one that will let you format a variety of drives, by
manually typing in the #s of tracks, heads; write-precomp and
reduced-write-current cylinders and partitioning info.
Western Digital models have a very good rep, and give you great
flexibility. (Note: their old models, as well as some clones,
feature a BIOS ROM that allows you to pick one of a very few
predetermined drive types, eg. ST225. This is something you
want to stay away from, even if you have one of the drives in
the table. You'll be glad later, when you add a bigger disk.)
If you go the RLL route, you get a big win on disk transfer speed
besides the extra capacity.
VIDEO DISPLAY:
I'm currently using an EGA with a CGA monitor. The advantages
of this are 16 colors instead of just white at highest resolution
and (this I didn't expect) higher speed with no flicker. The
disadvantage is no low-res games.
You can't really go wrong with a Hercules/"MGA".
If you do go CGA, try to get one that doesn't flicker. There are
some around.
As far as EGA goes, there are 101 varieties. I'd look for
extra resolution (640x400?), and I wouldn't get anything too
fancy (word has it that the autoswitching ones can get very
confused). For this reason I'd stay away from autoswitching
clones (although name-brands will likely support you with
updated ROMs etc.).
MONITORS:
This is an area of personal taste, and by all means look around.
You'll be mad at yourself later if you get stuck with a lousy
picture. One issue with monochrome is phosphor persistance. Another
is green vs. amber (although amber is winning).
Look for one with a tilt/swivel base.
MULTI I/O CARDS:
These are definitely worth getting; look for printer, serial,
floppy disk controller, game port, and clock. Also, many have
empty sockets for an 8250 (UART) and 1488 (driver) that, when
populated, give you a 2nd RS-232 port. (Good for mouse!)
MODEM:
If you get an inboard modem, be sure it will run on COM3 and COM4.
(Since usually the Multi I/O board won't let you put the serial
ports on COM3/4.)
KEYBOARD:
Again, a matter of preference; the one most prefer is the RT-style
(with many Fkeys across the top, F1-F12). Make sure you like
the feel of the keys; check the position and size of the
SHIFT, ENTER, and CONTROL keys. CapsLock, NumLock LEDs are nice.
CASE:
The new "baby AT" style is very popular, and one dealer I know
summed it up thus: "When I sell someone a computer in an ATjr
case, they feel they got a lot better deal than if it was in
a normal XT one". The ATjr style gives you slightly more room,
the option of a "Power-on" LED and keyswitch. Also they can
be stood on end without a stand, which the XT case will let you
do, but it won't be too stable.
You will probably like the convenience of a flip-top, if you
open your machine up a lot. Drawback: less stable if the
system is on its side (standing up) if the top can move.
Get a 135W+ power supply.
MOTHERBOARD:
Look for a turbo version, 8 MHz at least. Newer ones may be 10.
Get a V20(-8 or -10!). It should have 640k on board.
There is the issue of 4 or 2 layer -- 4 layer is less noisy and
supposedly more reliable. If I were buying a 10 MHz, I would
really try for 4 layers.
The BIOS is important, Phoenix is the one of choice. Of course,
some people stick in pirated IBM ones; they want to be super-
compatible. Also look for ROM sockets for expansion ROMs (IBM
puts BASIC here).
[Disclaimer: I'm not suggesting nor advocating piracy of
IBM's copyrighted software, merely reporting observations.]
If you get a turbo, be sure you can switch it using a real
switch (not just via key combinations). Important for some
games which take over the machine, and also really convenient.
If you want to buy True Blue, be aware that you won't get a turbo
system, and that many IBM-PCs which I've looked at are not made
any better than the clone I have at home.
If you're careful you can do pretty well with used equipment.
Just make sure you can return it if it don't work.
And check Computer Shopper by all means.
/=^=\ Thomas M. Hundt / BELLCORE Morristown NJ / hundt@bellcore.bellcore.com
| | {seismo|ihnp4|ucbvzx|decvax|ulysses|allegra|clyde|princeton}...
/--_--\ ...!bellcore!hundt