farber@lindy.Stanford.EDU (Hank Farber) (07/12/90)
I need to know if and how I can add a 3.5 inch floppy drive (preferable 1.44 Mbyte) to my ATT 6300 computer. It would have to be external because I already am using both drive bays (1 360k floppy and one hard disk). Can I use the existing controller (on the Motherboard), or do I need an additional controller? What version of the operating system would be needed. Thanks in advance for your help. Hank Farber
gsk@khaki.asd.sgi.com (George S. Kong) (07/12/90)
attached are some old netnews articles that you may find helpful, including one that i wrote 2 1/2 yrs ago. George S. Kong, Silicon Graphics, Inc., (415)962-3281 gsk@sgi.com ...{decwrl,allegra,adobe,ucbvax,pyramid,ames}!sgi!gsk .......................................................................... From gsk@khaki Tue Sep 8 15:25:14 1987 From: gsk@khaki Newsgroups: comp.sys.att,comp.sys.ibm.pc Subject: Re: 3.5 Drive in 6300 Summary: here are some tips Keywords: Any tips? Message-ID: <6112@sgi.SGI.COM> Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc, Mountain View, CA i trust you've seen G. P. Wilkin's helpful posting about 1.4M 3.5" drives. i decided to go with 720K. the floppy controller in the PC6300 supports two drives. basically, i bought a 720K drive and plugged it into the existing controller in my 6300. there are a number of gotchas involved: 1) you probably don't have a spare drive bay in your 6300, if you're already running a 5 1/4" floppy drive and a hard drive. you'll thus have to mount something externally. you'll need an enclosure, power supply, long cables, etc. 2) the two connectors on the cable inside the 6300 are too close together to fit onto both the internal 5 1/4" drive and a Toshiba 720K drive at the same time. 3) you need to run DOS 3.2 in order to use 720K drives. upgrading a hard disk to a new version of DOS can be a real pain: i.e. backup everything to floppies or tape; run fdisk; reformat the disk; then restore everything. make sure you "set the active partition" with fdisk afterwards. you also have to add a "drivparm" line to your config.sys. see the DOS 3.2 manual for this. 4) you need to set the switches on the motherboard for 2 floppies. #1 and #3 were not problems for me, because i simultaneously added: an external enclosure, a second hard disk, and DOS 3.2. i installed both hard disks in the external enclosure, leaving the 5 1/4" floppy and the 3.5" floppy in the system unit. then i booted DOS 3.2 from floppy and formatted the new hard disk. then i xcopied my old hard disk to the new one. then i reformatted my old hard disk with DOS 3.2. i solved #2 by crimping another connector onto the ribbon cable. for #4, i can't remember offhand which switches to set. you'll have to consult the 6300 hardware manuals. i bought a Toshiba 720K floppy drive ($105) and installation kit ($20) from a local discount computer store (Technoland in Sunnyvale). you can order them mail order for comparable prices. be sure you get both the drive and the "universal" installation kit. the drive alone is not the right size and does not have the right connector to be installed in a PC. good luck. George S. Kong, Silicon Graphics, Inc., (415)962-3281 gsk@sgi.com .......................................................................... From jeffm@mmintl.UUCP Tue Feb 23 15:30:28 1988 From: jeffm@mmintl.UUCP (Jeffrey Miller) Newsgroups: comp.sys.att Subject: 1.44 Meg 3.5" drive on AT&T 6300: it works! Message-ID: <2732@mmintl.UUCP> Reply-To: jeffm@mmintl.UUCP (Jeffrey Miller) Organization: Ashton-Tate, E. Hartford, CT. * After months of searching and then finally waiting till I could find a dealer of 1.44 Meg 3.5" disks, I have reached Nirvana. I have a 1.44 Meg 3.5" drive as drive B: on my 6300. The drive also reads/writes 720k disks perfectly. I got the drive from Shamrock of Westlake Village, CA (805)373-7847, for $149. I also needed a controller card which supports the 500k/sec xfer rate necessary for the drive to operate at high density. The card was $100. It also controls my existing 5-1/4" drive. The floppy controller on the 6300 mboard had to be disabled. All that is necessary is to lift pin 17 of the 12L10 PAL at location 6E next to the 2 ROM chips (thanks to Pete Fales for that info). The only switch change necessary was DIPSW-1 sw7 to OFF, to tell the machine there are 2 floppies now. (When you lift pins, always lift them *very* slowly. This helps prevent metal fatigue. Just lift it enough to clear the socket). The drive came with everything necessary: mounting hardware for 3-1/2 and 5-1/4 enclosures, drivers, and as an extra, a fast backup program called TakeTwo. The instructions were very clear. If you should try this, re- member that for the 3-1/2" drive, pin 34 of the connector must be connected to the controller. But you'll have to put a piece of tape over the same position on the 5-1/4" drive's connector, which must remain open to the controller. I did have one minor problem with the driver. The installation program was looking for a file called FTDRIVE.SYS, which didn't exist. But there was another .SYS file available. So I went into the install .com file, patched in the name of the existing .SYS file, and everything worked fine. When contacted, Shamrock said this was missed in the first ones shipped. Unfortunately, Shamrock did not have enclosures when I bought my drive. I checked with them for about 2 months and they still did not have them ready, so I bought one from some company, maybe Jameco or PC Source. But the drive cable had no way to get out of the machine. So I picked up some 34-pin socket connectors from Jameco and some cable, and made up a short cable which I ran out of an empty slot space in the back. It just goes up to the case and everythings fine. Ideally, the slot mount on the controller card itself should have a cutout in which I mount a 34-pin connector and run the cable from the back, but no problem. By the way, the drive comes with the capability to use both a socket connector ::::::::::::::::: like this, or an edge connector, a very nice feature through the use of a small adapter circuit board. I used the socket since room was limited inside the enclosure. All in all, the disk access is not the fastest, but having that much storage on a floppy is great. I had a hard time finding 1.44 Meg disks. The best price I saw was $39 per box of 10, but like all the other places, they had none in stock. I finally found some for $42 at Richard Young Products, Deerfield Beach, FL (800)325-0136. Last night I received them and that's why I'm posting today. I wanted to make sure. I recommend the stuff highly. And of course the usual disclaimers. Jeff -- * Jeff Miller: Ashton-Tate 52 Oakland Ave., E. Hartford, CT 06108-9911 * * (203) 522-2116 x257 UUCP: ...!seismo!utah-cs!utah-gr!pwa-b!mmintl!jeffm * * or ...!ihnp4!philabs!pwa-b!mmintl!jeffm * .......................................................................... From: aptr@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (John Werner) Newsgroups: comp.sys.att,comp.sys.ibm.pc Subject: 6300 Upgrades - adding 1.2 and 1.44 Meg disks (long) Keywords: CompatiCard Message-ID: <562@ur-cc.UUCP> Organization: Univ. of Rochester, Computing Center Xref: sgi comp.sys.att:5810 comp.sys.ibm.pc:25892 NOTE: This article is being cross posted to two newsgroups, comp.sys.att and comp.sys.ibm.pc because it applies to both groups. Please edit the Newsgroups lines appropriately. If you wish to make a comment directly to me, please us e-mail. I read both groups, but not as much as I would like to. (I recently threw away 2000+ unread articles in comp.sys.ibm.pc.) ------ I have just finished adding a pair of new disk drives to my AT&T 6300 clone. It is actually a Xerox 6064 given to me by my father who works for Xerox. The drives I added are a 1.2 Meg 5.25" and a 1.44 Meg 3.5". Currently, both of these are sitting on top of topless computer waiting for a case to arrive from Mead. At this point, everything seems to run fine, but I have not had a chance to try the 3.5" drive at 1.44 Meg. I didn't have a chance to get 1.44 Meg disks for it, and the 720k disks won't format at 1.44 Meg. The drives are being run off a Compaticard from Micro Solutions. The Compaticard costs about $175 and is somewhat unique in it ability to be configured to be any drive contoller. Unlike most drive contollers, it does not insist on being the primary drive contoller. This allows it to be used in computers that have built in controllers (i.e. AT&T 6300). The board also supports just about any type of drive you could ever want. It even supports 8" disk drives. (Oh, I do have a pair of 8" drives from a Xerox 16/8 PC that I plan to hook up soon so I can transfer some long forgotten files from CP/m to MS-DOS.) INSTALLATION Installation of the card is relatively easy and painless if you do not make the mistakes I did. Jumpers on the Compati Card select which controller the card will be. In my case, I told it to be controller 2. You can run up to four controllers on one machine. Each controller supports 4 drives and has four drive connectors (2 parrallel (sp?) wired pairs), so you can have a total of 16 drives. There is an edge connector paired with a 34 pin connector, and a 24 pin connector paired with a 37 pin D-connector on the back of the card. Each pair of connectors is capable of running two drives. For my system, I chose to use the edge connector. To connect the drives, you need to have a cable that runs from the connector on the board to the drives. If you want, you can wire two drives with one cable, but on one of the drives, 10 to 16 on the connector must be reversed in order. The twist in the cable is so that you do not have to change jumpers on the drives. By twisting the cable, the control lines are reversed so that what used to be the control lines for drive 2 are now the control lines for drive 1. Most disk drives are now shipped as drive 2. Once the drives are set wired up and powered (you will have to give them power, but if they are in a case this is not too much of a problem), you can have to install driver software in the Config.sys file of your boot disk. This software is used to allow DOS to access the disks. I have no idea what is need to run Xenix or UN*X or whatever because I have never had to worry about it. The manual does provide information on how to do low level (DMA) access of the drives. The manual is is slightly better then the UN*X man pages, but not by too much. Once this is all done, you are ready to run. After re-booting the computer, the drives are ready to test. If you can format a disk on the drives, then the installation worked. (There is a special format program provided so that you can use the drives even if your DOS version does not support the format and/or drive.) After this, they should run with out any problem. Now, having described the installation process, I will describe the mistakes I made on the way. 1) When building the original cable, I somehow managed to do it so that the connectors where not seated well enough to make contact with the wires in the ribbon cable. I spent several hours on Christmas Eve trying to figure out the problem. Eventually, my father and I decided to rebuild the cables. This solved the problem. Although the installation manual that comes with it has a trouble shooting section, we could not find the solution there. On Christmas Eve, we decided that calling for technical support was not going to get us very far because no one would willingly be there on a Saturday to answer technical questions, not to mention this particular Saturday. The symptoms of the problem were that the drive light would never come on no matter how we tried to orientate the connector. 2) When we built the cable, we decided not to twist the wires 10 to 16 on one of the connectors and just use the drive select plug on the 1.2 Meg drive to drive 0 from drive 1. The problem with this approach was that the jumper on the 1.2Meg drive only changed which drive select line was accessed, not which motor was turned on. Hence, although we could turn the drive light on, we couldn't do anything else with the drive. Most of my father's and my experience with disk drive wiring was with 8" drives in the days of CP/m. On an 8" drive, the motor is always running, so you never have to wory about toggling it on or off. This morning (Christmas morning) it finally occurred to me what the problem was, and I discovered that the only easy way to get both drives to work was to use a twisted cable for one. 3) The last problem occurred when I put in the twist in the cable. Somehow, I once again managed to get a poor connection on the to one of the connectors and spent some time finding the problem. (Some problems are just _too_ obvious to consider.) COMPATIBILTY So far, every program can access the disks as normal DOS devices without any problems. I can format, write, and read disks without any hitches. There are some little inconviences that some software is giving me. Both FastBack 2.01 (Fifth Generation Systems) and PC-Backup (Central Point Software) refuse to try to use physical drives that are above 3. The two drives I have installed are physical devices 4 and 5, the lowest possible ones with the CompatiCard being used as controller 2. This means that I can not use the nice backup features that these programs provide on my 1.2 Meg drive. (i.e. no formatting while backing up, no special rercoverable format, etc.) FastBack does allow the backup to be done to any DOS device, so I was able to run a backup to the 1.2 Meg drive, but I had to format the disks as normal DOS disks before doing the backup. This was a bit of pain since I have 60 disks for my backups. (I have 60 Meg of Harddisk on my system.) The other problem is a very minor. Because of the large size of IBM PC-DOS 3.3 and my using FansiConsole, EMM drives, and now another set of drivers for the new drives, I no longer have enough memory to run one program. If I leave out FansiConsole, I barely have enough memory. [Aside: FansiConsole now supports the VDC750 in all of its EGA modes, including 640x400 16 color mode. It even allows you to use 50 line display in the above mode.] OTHER NOTES I have already mentioned that the 6300 has a built in drive controller. Because the CompatiCard can be configured as any controller (1-4), it does not have a problem with the 6300s controller. The thing to note is that the drive configuration switches on the motherboard should not be changed since they only make a difference for the built in controller. Changing these caused my system to lock on boot and return "Bad or Missing Command Interpretter". (This panicced me a first because there have been some virus problems on MacIntoshes around here and I thought I might have gotten hold a PC virus.) The second note concerns the DMA on the mother board. Other are several DMA chips that were used. Only some of these are fast enough to keep up with 1.2 and 1.44 Meg drives. The best way to tell the difference is to check the number on the DMA. DMAs that will work are AMD 95117 and NEC 8237AC-5. Other DMAs are probably not fast enough. There are also two different ways that the chips were mounted. Some where soldered on and some were socketed. If you have a socketed DMA, it is a simple matter to change it. (The latest replacement motherboards to come through the Xerox Service Center locally have had socketed NEC DMA chips.) If the DMA is soldered on, you may want someone with experience working with soldering ICs to help. First off, _do_not_ try to unsolder the DMA. If something should go wrong and the plating on the hole is pulled through, you will lose contace to the inner layers of the circuit board. At this point you will have to replace the mother board. The best method for dealing with soldered on DMA chips is to carefully cut the leads to the chip leaving enough length to solder to. Then carefully solder the leads of the new DMA to the leads from the old DMA leads. This can be tricky because the tolerences at this point are rather small and it is fairly easy to form a solder bridge. DISCLAIMER: I have never actually tried this proccess, but it has been recommended by many people I have talked to. I also will not be liable for any damage you do from either trying this procedure or having someone else do it. (I really hate to have to put a disclaimer in, but I can't afford to buy anybody a new computer right now.) SUMMARY The CompatiCard from MicroSolutions allows owners of computers with built in disk controllers to add more disk drives to their machines. These drives can be on any format and size (3.5", 5.25", 8"). The software comes with drivers for DOS and enough information to allow custom drivers to be written. Installation of the system is straight forward, but there may be some machine specific problems encountered. Overall, it is a very nice and reasonably priced (~$175) solution to the problem of adding more drives to a 6300. John Werner ------ John E. Werner UUCP: {cmcl2!decvax}!rochester!ur-cc!aptr aka BITNET: aptrccss@uorvm The Wumpus Internet: aptr@uhura.cc.rochester.edu Disclaimer: "Who? When? Me? It was the Booze!" - M. Binkley -- John E. Werner UUCP: {cmcl2!decvax}!rochester!ur-cc!aptr aka BITNET: aptrccss@uorvm The Wumpus Internet: aptr@uhura.cc.rochester.edu Disclaimer: "Who? When? Me? It was the Booze!" - M. Binkley
mvadh@cbnews.att.com (andrew.d.hay) (07/12/90)
In article <63908@sgi.sgi.com> gsk@khaki.asd.sgi.com (George S. Kong) writes:
[]
"The best method for dealing with soldered on DMA chips is to carefully
"cut the leads to the chip leaving enough length to solder to. Then
"carefully solder the leads of the new DMA to the leads from the old
"DMA leads. This can be tricky because the tolerences at this point
"are rather small and it is fairly easy to form a solder bridge.
NO!
cutting the old chip out is right, but you should NOT leave the old
leads in place.
heat each pad with your iron and blow, suck, or pull the old lead out.
this will leave a clear hole to install your new SOCKET into.
--
Andrew Hay +------------------------------------------------------+
Ragged Individualist | But I thought we were *ALL* iconoclasts! |
AT&T-BL Ward Hill MA | I was just trying to fit in!!! |
a.d.hay@att.com +------------------------------------------------------+