[net.micro.atari8] 576k 130xe

jeb6589@ritvaxc.BITNET (Jim Berg) (04/21/86)

The 130XE/576K upgrade, by Scott Peterson.
Copyright (C) 1986, released to the public.

Here we go again, this time I recommend you have some electronics experience if
you wish to preform the upgrade.  Some of the work is duplicated from the 320K
upgrade so 320XE owners will not have as much work to do.  One other point, when
in the 576K mode you MUST use some sort of basic cart.  As you lose the internal
basic, this is only in the 576K mode, in the 130XE mode internal basic will
function normally.

TOOLS NEEDED; To preform this upgrade you need the following:

Low wattage fine tip soldering iron.
Vacuum de-soldering tool(like Radio Shack PN#64-2098).
Some 30-gauge wire (Radio Shack PN#278-501).
#2 phillips head screwdriver.
Heat-shrink tubing, 1/8 in. Dia.
Also a pair of small needle-nose pliers and a small flat tip screwdriver are
handy.

PARTS NEEDED:
Z1       74LS158
Z2-Z17   41256(150ns.)
Z18      74LS138
Z19      7432
R1-R2    33 ohm 1/4 watt resistor.
S1       Micro-mini DPDT switch (like Radio Shack PN#275-626)

Remove the 130XE case and metal RF shield to get down to the mother board
(320XE users go to step two).

STEP ONE:
Now de-solder and remove the eight ram chips U26 thru U33(MT4264).  They are
the row closest to the TV RF module (do NOT use solder wick, the circuit board
of the 130XE has very weak runs and they will pull loose if not completely
de-soldered).  Replace these with the 16 pin low profile sockets.  Take a piece
of wire approx 12 in. long and run a jumper from pin 1 of each socket to the
next.  When you are done the wire should be attached to pin 1 of each of the
new sockets and you should have about 6 inchs left over.  Do this on the rear
of the mother board and then snake the wire thru the large hole near the ram
chips.  Next, des  older and remove U23(CO14795), and replace it with a 40 pin
socket.  Bend up pins 15 and 16 and insert it in the socket you just installed.
 Take Z1(74LS158) and break off pins 5,6,7,9,10,11,12,13,14.  Bend up the other
pins on it except 8 and 16.  Put this  "piggy back" on top of U20(HD14050, or
4050 - located just to the right of C50) and solder pins 8 and 16 of Z1 to pins
8 and 16 on U20.  Now take a short jumper from pin 15 on Z1 to pin 8 of Z1.
Take a piece of wire about 4 in. long, solder one end to pin 30 on the chip
marked "CO14805" on the mother board, and the other end to pin 1 on Z1.  Next
solder a wire to pin 15 (one of the two you bent out) of U23 and connect the
other end to pin 2 on Z1.  Solder a wire to pin 16 on U23 and connect the other
end to pin 3 on Z1.  Take R1(33 ohm) and trim the leads to about 1/4 in.  Take
the wire you connected to pin 1 of the ram chip sockets and solder it to one
end of R1, solder the other end of R1 to pin 4 on Z1.

STEP TWO:
Slide the mother board back into the bottem half of the plastic case (do not
use the RF shield, you must be able to get at the mother board), and attach the
keyboard.  It will rest above the mother board without touching it. Test all
41256 ram chips by putting one set of 8 in the sockets and using the
handlers(or DOS's), and then the next. After testing all ram chips remove them
all from the sockets, and take 8 of them and cut about half of pin 15 off of
each one.  Only the "fat" part of pin 15 should be left.  After doing this you
have to "piggy back" the 8 256K ram chips with the short pin 15's on top of the
other 8 256K ram chips.  Now solder all the pins together on the stacked ram
chips except for pin 15, it should not be touching the other pin 15, make sure
you have them going pin 1 to 1, pin 2 to 2, ect.  When you get done you will
have 8 sets of Piggy backed 256K ram chips.  Now take a piece of wire about 16
in. long and run a jumper from pin 15 to the next one on all the top 256k
DRAM's, leaving about 1 inch between each ram chip.  Put the stacked ram chips
into the 8 sockets you installed earlier.  Take Z18(74LS138) and bend up all
the pins except 8 and 16, cut the pins you bent up in half so only the fat part
is left, and solder pins 8 and 16 to pins 8 and 16 of the other 74LS138 right
below the U23(CO14795).  Take Z19 and bend up all pins except 7 and 14, once
again cut all the pins you bent up in half and solder pins 7 and 14 to pins 7
and 14 of the 74LS08 right below U23.  Take the wire you jumpered earlier to
pin 15 of Z10 thru Z17 (the upper row of 256K ram chips) and go out 2 in. and
cut the wire, now install R2(33 ohm) between this cut.  Place a piece of heat
shrink tubing over R1 and make sure no wire is exposed and heat it with a
lighter.  Take the other end of this wire and connect it to Z18 pin 14.  Find
the 2 33 ohm resistors just to the right of U28 (one of the ram chips you
socketized).  The upper one of the 2 is R111, desolder the right leg of it and
bend it up.  Take a piece of wire and solder it to the land where you just
removed the leg of R111.  Connect the other end to Z18 pin 4.  Trim back the
leg of R111 and solder a wire to it, slip a piece of heat shrink tube over it
and heat it up. Now connect the other end to Z18 pin 12.  Take a short wire and
run a jumper from pins 1 and 16 of Z18.  Take another short wire and connect a
jumper from pins 3, 5, and 8 of Z18.  Now connect a wire from Z18 pin 2 to Z19
pin 3.  Find the wire you installed from U23 pin 15 to Z1(74LS158) pin 2 and
desolder it from U23.  Take it and reconnect it to Z19 pin 11.  Ok, now pry
U23(CO14795) back out of the socket and bend up pin 11, plug it back in.  Run a
jumper from pins 1 and 4 of Z19, and another jumper from pins 10 and 13 of Z19.
 Connect a wire from U23 pin 11 to Z19 pin 1, and from U23 pin 15 to Z19 pin
13.  Now connect a wire from Z19 pin 8 to the right side of the 3.3K ohm
resistor marked R206 (located at the bottem right of U23).  Connect a wire to
Z19 pin 6 and run it to pin 18 of U3(CO61618).  Now comes the tricky part,
drill a small hole (1/4 in. or so, depending on the switch size) at the rear
right on the back of your 130XE. Take the small DPDT switch(S1) and install it
in the hole.  Now connect it as shown(make sure the switch DOESNT have a center
off position);

            S1(rear)
 U23         ________       U23
 pin 20 ----|-O    O-|----- pin 1
            |  \  /  |
   Z19   ---|-O \/ O-|---   Z19
pins 2+12   |   /\   |    pins 5+9
            |  /  \  |
            | O    O |
            |________|

Note: where the wires cross in  the middle, they are NOT connected.  Make the
connection from the switch to U23 on the rear of the mother board.  Well that's
it(thank god).  Now re-assemble the computer, being carefull not to break any
wiring going to the switch.  You should now have in one switch position a 100%
compatable 130xe, and in the other you have a 576K 130XE that does not have
Antic memory enhance mode and also can-not use internal basic.  In the 130XE
mode you gain 64K as bit 6 of the PIA can still be used.  The following page
list of the bit table and numbers to be used in location 54017(PORTB).  Once
again, if you need help call the Peanut Gallery BBS (408)-384-3906.  If you
want a mailer of all the upgrades I have as well as a disk with handlers,
source codes, etc. send a money order (please, no checks) for $10.00 to;

                        Scott Peterson
                        P.O.Box 33
                        Ft.Ord CA. 93941-0033

This includes the 800 288K upgrade by D.G.Byrd, the 800XL/256K(C.Burchholz),
the 130XE/320k upgrade and anything else I finish.  Good luck, and have fun.

Memory Control Register 54017(D301) 130XE in 576K mode.
Bit 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
    D a b C c d e R

D=0 enable diag. ROM
R=1 enable OS ROM
C=0 enable extended memory
abcde=memory control bits.
-------------------------------------
Bank#    Control#(dec)  Hex
-------------------------------------
Bank 0 ---------->129   81
Bank 1 ---------->131   83
Bank 2 ---------->133   85
Bank 3 ---------->135   87
Bank 4 ---------->137   89
Bank 5 ---------->139   8B
Bank 6 ---------->141   8D
Bank 7 ---------->143   8F
Bank 8 ---------->161   A1
Bank 9 ---------->163   A3
Bank 10 --------->165   A5
Bank 11 --------->167   A7
Bank 12 --------->169   A9
Bank 13 --------->171   AB
Bank 14 --------->173   AD
Bank 15 --------->175   AF
Bank 16 --------->193   C1
Bank 17 --------->195   C3
Bank 18 --------->197   C5
Bank 19 --------->199   C7
Bank 20 --------->201   C9
Bank 21 --------->203   CB
Bank 22 --------->205   CD
Bank 23 --------->207   CF
Bank 24 --------->225   E1
Bank 25 --------->227   E3
Bank 26 --------->229   E5
Bank 27 --------->231   E7
Bank 28 --------->233   E9
Bank 29 --------->235   EB
Bank 30 --------->237   ED
Bank 31 --------->239   EF
-------------------------------------

There is a version of MYDOS to support this mod, its called 4.1A and will run
up to 32 16K banks. At this time ICD is working on a RD.COM file to support
this. Also I have written a machine lang. tester that will load and test all 32
banks of memory to insure that they are there and work. Wonder how long it will
take Jay Torres to copy this one.
                 Good luck
                 Scott Peterson